Thermostat housing hole.

[Douglasdzaster]

They do have vent holes in the top but no fuel coming out. Prev owner said he had the carburetors rebuilt then it sat for a year before I got it. Before even trying to start it I cleaned the tank and flushed all the lines( old gas smelled like varnish) installed a clear inline filter under the cowling and it fired right up.The only thing I did not do was drain the bowls before starting it. Why I didn’t think of it i don’t know. After replacing the water pump. I took it out and the boat flew. Idled good, great wot. Second time out noticed a couple of black specs in the filter and I stopped running it and started replacing lines installing 10 micron fuel water separator etc. I use non ethanol fuel and still mix with marine Stabil and Seafoam which is probably over kill. I’ll post some pictures of the carburetors along with the thermostat housing next. Re: pin hole. There’s the pin hole in a step up then not seen it photo a larger water passage in the back right side. I took a small drill bit and the pin hole doesn’t go very deep. It may flow down or to the side . Can’t see inside there.

 

[Sea Rider]

Any round hole located somewhere it's part of the motor design, so the thermo is located to a side and not on top of the cylinder head as found in larger motors. If wanting to clean any hole, hidden passage buy a can of CRC carbon remover and spry an overdose with the provided red cannula.

Sat for a year after carbs were rebuilt, was that scenario with fuel in them or without ? if with fuel will probably need to remove all 3 carbs and micropolish the needle valve seat for an opt float/needle marriage, assuming all other internal carb's components such as jets, main nozzle were cleaned to perfection. Better is to consume fresh fuel for that outing and refill with fresh new fuel for next outing and save some cash not buying Stabil.

E blended fuels sitting inside carbs for long time periods will screw many internal metal and rubber components, pic speaks for itself...

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Any round hole located somewhere it's part of the motor design, so the thermo is located to a side and not on top of the cylinder head as found in larger motors. If wanting to clean any hole, hidden passage buy a can of CRC carbon remover and spry an overdose with the provided red cannula.

Sat for a year after carbs were rebuilt, was that scenario with fuel in them or without ? if with fuel will probably need to remove all 3 carbs and micropolish the needle valve seat for an opt float/needle marriage, assuming all other internal carb's components such as jets, main nozzle were cleaned to perfection. Better is to consume fresh fuel for that outing and refill with fresh new fuel for next outing and save some cash not buying Stabil.

E blended fuels sitting inside carbs for long time periods will screw many internal metal and rubber components, pic speaks for itself...

Happy Boating​

After I cleaned the tank I mixed fresh fuel in it then I hooked the fuel line to it and disconnected it from the fitting going into the motor. Squeezed the primer to flush the line and some pretty nasty stuff came out until I started getting fresh fuel. So since the hose was full of bad fuel I bet the carburetors where too. I’m kicking myself for not draining them. I’ve done plenty of small engine carburetors like lawnmowers and chainsaws etc. but never an outboard carburetor. I’ve watched a lot of you tube but those guys don’t always do it right. It was actually leaking worse until I ran the strong Seafoam mix through it.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

After I cleaned the tank I mixed fresh fuel in it then I hooked the fuel line to it and disconnected it from the fitting going into the motor. Squeezed the primer to flush the line and some pretty nasty stuff came out until I started getting fresh fuel. So since the hose was full of bad fuel I bet the carburetors where too. I’m kicking myself for not draining them. I’ve done plenty of small engine carburetors like lawnmowers and chainsaws etc. but never an outboard carburetor. I’ve watched a lot of you tube but those guys don’t always do it right. It was actually leaking worse until I ran the strong Seafoam mix through it.

Also can you explain micro polishing the needle valve seat. I was going to clean them and put a kit in but if that’s not the fix I have more to learn from you.

 

[Sea Rider]

If the nasty stuff was not stopped at the small fuel filter definitely lays inside the carb. Open all 3 carb's bowls screws and check what comes out. Place a small container under each bowl to collect the outcoming fuel and check its condition. Report what was found. You should always flush the whole fuel line specially if not new to clean it out before connecting it to the motor.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

If the nasty stuff was not stopped at the small fuel filter definitely lays inside the carb. Open all 3 carb's bowls screws and check what comes out. Place a small container under each bowl to collect the outcoming fuel and check its condition. Report what was found. You should always flush the whole fuel line specially if not new to clean it out before connecting it to the motor.

Happy Boating​

Okay I took out the drain screw on the top carburetor and the fuel was fine like new. The jets in the screw where partially clogged so I cleaned it before putting it back.
Middle carburetor which leaks the most. The fuel had a little water but fresh. The jets where completely clogged on that screw. Cleaned it also.
The bottom carburetor I had no way of catching the fuel but that screw was completely clogged as well. Cleaned and put back.
No trash or debris in any of them.
The screws are on the side so there was still a little fuel in each one. I wonder what it looks like.

 

[Sea Rider]

Does the bowl's screws have jets ? are supposed to be simple screws with a washer. Assume you haven't removed any pilot screw (fuel/air mixture screw). Don't remove them if the carbs are not going to undergo an internal preventive maintenance. Can work that latter if plan going that route.

Does the fuel spills through the carb's throats continues when the bulb with arrow pointed upwards is primed till firm prior starting the motor ?

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Does the bowl's screws have jets ? are supposed to be simple screws with a washer. Assume you haven't removed any pilot screw (fuel/air mixture screw). Don't remove them if the carbs are not going to undergo an internal preventive maintenance. Can work that latter if plan going that route.

Does the fuel spills through the carb's throats continues when the bulb with arrow pointed upwards is primed till firm prior starting the motor ?

Happy Boating​

They were the brass drain screws on the bottom of the bowl(you can see them in one of the pictures above 10mm bolt head). Had holes in them just like a lawnmower. Haven’t tried leaving the bulb pointing up. It’s been sitting with the fuel line disconnect ever since the thermostat bolt broke and still had fuel seeping into the throat. I guess from what ever was in the bowl. I disconnected it because I figured when the sun heats it up during the day fuel was expanding and pushing from the line and filter. I keep the portable tank in my shop when the boats parked. Like I said before though I primed it up and had to wait a couple of hours before it started coming out of the throat. Don’t think I had the bulb pointing up though.

 

[Sea Rider]

Was the broken bolt been removed at the machine shop ? When possible prime the motor with bulb held upright till firm, will prime much faster and firmer, leave the motor primed and check if the fuel spills remains same, has increased or decreased, most boaters don't have the least idea what's the arrow for and prime the motor horizontally. A carb, carbs well internal maintained should not leak a drop from nowhere.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Was the broken bolt been removed at the machine shop ? When possible prime the motor with bulb held upright till firm, will prime much faster and firmer, leave the motor primed and check if the fuel spills remains same, has increased or decreased, most boaters don't have the least idea what's the arrow for and prime the motor horizontally. A carb, carbs well internal maintained should not leak a drop from nowhere.

Happy Boating​

The bolt was removed I’m waiting on the new ones from Yamaha. I learned about holding the arrow up to prime motor while replacing the fuel line,installing 10 micron fuel water separator,and new primer bulb, all new fittings as well . I thought you meant do I leave it in that position some how after I primed the motor. I was replacing the fuel lines under the cowling when I broke the stat bolt. I have a new OEM inline filter coming with the stat bolts so it’ll all be new from tank to carburetor. It didn’t have any fuel filters whatsoever when I got it. Why they removed the OEM filter is beyond me.

 

[Sea Rider]

After priming the bulb firm with arrow pointing upwards leave the bulb resting at any other position. The idea is to create enough fuel pressure inside the carb and fuel hose as well and check where's the fuel exiting from.

With E fuels usage fuel filter's cap widens inside their housing and sometimes breaks when removed, probably the motor went that way and the OEM filter was replaced by other.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

After priming the bulb firm with arrow pointing upwards leave the bulb resting at any other position. The idea is to create enough fuel pressure inside the carb and fuel hose as well and check where's the fuel exiting from.

With E fuels usage fuel filter's cap widens inside their housing and sometimes breaks when removed, probably the motor went that way and the OEM filter was replaced by other.

Happy Boating​

The tube sticking up in the carburetor throat where the fuel comes out when running is where it’s seeping into the throat from.

 

[Sea Rider]

The tall tube with tiny holes that protrudes upward around the middle carb section is called the Main Nozzle. Seems the carb needs an exhaustive preventive internal maintenance. Check pic on post 22, it's the tall part at 6 o'clock.

if going that route better service all 3 carbs in a row. Would you know how to remove all the carbs and take care of each individually ? this is not rocket science can take several pics before removing all 3 carbs and assemble back once cleaned to perfection in reverse order....

Happy Boating
​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

The tall tube with tiny holes that protrudes upward around the middle carb section is called the Main Nozzle. Seems the carb needs an exhaustive preventive internal maintenance. Check pic on post 22, it's the tall part at 6 o'clock.

if going that route better service all 3 carbs in a row. Would you know how to remove all the carbs and take care of each individually ? this is not rocket science can take several pics before removing all 3 carbs and assemble back once cleaned to perfection in reverse order....

Happy Boating
​

Not sure what you’re talking about on which picture. But yes I think I can get them put back. I’ve done a ton of small engine carburetors. Lawn mowers etc. Just never opened up an outboard carburetor. Are we talking putting in kits or just a good cleaning?

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Not sure what you’re talking about on which picture. But yes I think I can get them put back. I’ve done a ton of small engine carburetors. Lawn mowers etc. Just never opened up an outboard carburetor. Are we talking putting in kits or just a good cleaning?

I’m sorry, you were telling me where the main nozzle was when you said 6 o’clock. I hope mine doesn’t look as bad inside the carburetor. Should I get kits for them since I’m going to be in there? I usually do the old bread tie striped down to the wire for cleaning the clogged jets etc. Is this safe for the outboard or should I just try spraying everything out with cleaner and compressed air?

 

[Sea Rider]

It all depends on what the internal carb condition will look like, impossible to know until the carbs are not opened up. Do one carb at a time, start from the upper one as not to mix carb parts between them. Do not remove the Pilot Screw from any of them, needs to be measured as to put them back as were set before removing assuming that still remains with factory settings. Will post latter a quick way of doing it...

Have never ever before needed a full carb kit, a meticulous manual clean up will do the trick provided that all the jets, carb's needle, floats are in excellent working condition.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

It all depends on what the internal carb condition will look like, impossible to know until the carbs are not opened up. Do one carb at a time, start from the upper one as not to mix carb parts between them. Do not remove the Pilot Screw from any of them, needs to be measured as to put them back as were set before removing assuming that still remains with factory settings. Will post latter a quick way of doing it...

Have never ever before needed a full carb kit, a meticulous manual clean up will do the trick provided that all the jets, carb's needle, floats are in excellent working condition.

Happy Boating​

I asked about the kits because I figured I’d be replacing the bowl gaskets at least and they’re half as much as a kit. But since I’ve never done an outboard I will be waiting on your post. Thank you again for walking me through this and sharing your experience.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

I asked about the kits because I figured I’d be replacing the bowl gaskets at least and they’re half as much as a kit. But since I’ve never done an outboard I will be waiting on your post. Thank you again for walking me through this and sharing your experience.

My parts will be here tomorrow finally. New OEM inline fuel filter and thermostat bolts and washers with a new cover. I have the new thermostat and gasket already.

 

[Sea Rider]

My parts will be here tomorrow finally. New OEM inline fuel filter and thermostat bolts and washers with a new cover. I have the new thermostat and gasket already.

Which other parts aside the bowl gasket are included in the carb kit, all the jets, main nozzle, pilot screw, needle valve assembly, float ? A full carb kit should cost no less than $ 50.00-60.00 per carb. A single bowl gasket is around $ 10.00. If it's in a bad shape will see fuel filtration right in middle of both carb's mating surfaces.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Which other parts aside the bowl gasket are included in the carb kit, all the jets, main nozzle, pilot screw, needle valve assembly, float ? A full carb kit should cost no less than $ 50.00-60.00 per carb. A single bowl gasket is around $ 10.00. If it's in a bad shape will see fuel filtration right in middle of both carb's mating surfaces.

Happy Boating​

Kits are $75-$85 depending on where you get them. I’m ready to fallow your instructions and find out if I need any parts when I open them up. If it is a good idea to replace the bowl gaskets I’ll get them on the way otherwise I’ll await your instructions sir. I just looked and you’re right OEM float chamber gaskets are under $9.