The well traveled 1979 Starcraft 18' V5 SS

[dozerII]

She is looking mighty fine Rob. :thumb:

 

[Decker83]

The lights look fantastic.. Thinking about buying some for mine. Thanks for the link.:encouragement:

 

[Pusher]

Well WM, I went to check out the rust removal process you mentioned and ended up starting from page one. Quite the turn around you're making on her!

I don't know if you've figured out the sticker deal but I used these guys for my labels.

All my switches are round. Not sure what your plan is though.

I really like these guys but if your switch is bigger than the ID then you have to hand file them open. They're too soft for a step drill.

Edit: I can post a pic of my setup if you like but something tells me you're ten steps ahead already

 

[211libwtfo]

I had no idea SC had such a following I had a 68 SC 16' it had a console on one side in sure there was one for passenger side also but was removed. I replaced the floor and the transom wished I was a member here at the time of restoration but I worked through it I'm not sure of the model of my SC but it was rated for an 85 hp I put a 90 hp vro evinrude it was fast. That was the best aluminum boat I've ever had. I really enjoy reading these SC posts. I have sent the SC down the road but will never forget. Good luck and looking forward to more post and pic. Also sold it for twice what I paid. GO SC.

 

[Watermann]

Hey those are pretty spiffy labels Pusher, I may look into those and they should fit my switches.

Yah 211 these older SC boats have a large following, your welcome to stay awhile maybe catch the SC bug again.

 

[Watermann]

Been working at the helm and just about have it all done. I was able to fit the Starcraft steering wheel badge on my new wheel's center cap with some heavy duty double sided 3M tape.

New rotary helm updated from a crusty old R&P to this century with the Sea Star NFB 4.2 system.

For those of you who don't know what the NFB No Feed Back helm is, it's equipped with clutches that accept no input from the motor end of the cable, only the steering wheel. So there is no feeling of steering torque from the OB motor at any speed even before you trim out.

I love the look of 4 spoke wheels!

 

[GA_Boater]

The dash looks great all dressed now.

Nice wheel!

 

[Decker83]

The new gauges and wheel look real sharp.. Very nice setup.:tea:
Where did you find the wheel?

 

[Pusher]

My new drill guide just showed up @watermann
Quite pleased!

Thanks for sharing

 

[BWR1953]

Very nice steering setup! I'm really liking that NFB feature. :encouragement:

 

[BMerr509]

That looks awesome WM!! Thanks for the info on the NFB, that sounds great. I'm gonna look into that.

 

[Watermann]

Thanks guys, one step closer to getting the Merc 140 on.

The new gauges and wheel look real sharp.. Very nice setup.:tea:
Where did you find the wheel?

Since I didn't buy the wheel here you'll have to send me a PM for the details, I did try to get a 4 spoke wheel here but the one I wanted was out of stock. With shipping it was half the price of most wheels you find online $54.00!

 

[No-AH]

Great find Mate! Looking good! Sweet beefy looking wheel too. Must feel great to have the helm work in your rear view now eh? You may have her ready to splash before the ice leaves us!

 

[Brackett221]

WM, Dash looks good! She is coming right along! What electrical setup are you going to use for charging the deep cycle? On-board charger? Some type of panel? ect?

 

[BMerr509]

WM- to go along with Brackett's comment, have you ever used those switches where you can use 1 battery, 2 batteries or no batteries? something like this...http://www.iboats.com/Mini-4-Positi...6338201--session_id.099482484--view_id.237437

I'm using one and would like to know what you think of them.

 

[Watermann]

Thanks, this one is really the most fun of the 3 builds I've done so far. On charging I'll have 2 big deep cycles up front for a 24v trolling motor (looking at the Terrova) and they will have an onboard charger but for the back battery I'll probably just throw my regular charger on it between trips.

A bit of an update.
So today I dug out my home made metal brake that's been hidden away since the Chief and fabricated a bracket from some 080 AL.

I know some guys like me hate boring holes in the transom but ya know it has to happen so things can be attached, like pitot and transducers. Some guys mount HDPE pieces and screw into it but I never really liked the idea of using short wood screws in that stuff and I don't even know if 5200 will adhere to it to help hold it on the transom.

The bracket I made will accommodate a pitot and transducer and if things need moved, replaced or too many holes are made then I can replace the outer piece or add a clean one over the top. The brackets that attach to the transom are back buttered with 5200 and screwed into the transom wood with SS screws. The outer bracket is then mounted onto the transom with SS machine screws and nylocs so it's removable and replaceable.

I mounted the pitot to it, also using SS machine screws/nylocs making sure the hole in the pitot is a bit deeper than 1.5" below the plane of the hull. I'll be putting on my transducer too when I get the new depth sounder.

 

[StarTed]

I like your bracket idea. Think I'll steal it for mine.

Looking good as usual.

 

[Watermann]

I like your bracket idea. Think I'll steal it for mine.

Looking good as usual.

That's why I posted it and with your mad metal skills Ted I'm sure you'll perfect the transom bracket.

 

[BMerr509]

I wish i had like 1/4th the talent of you guys. I have much to learn!!!!

 

[Pusher]

Out of curiosity, did you consider rotating the bracket 90?? I'd imagine that might channel spray up.

Excellent idea by the way. I currently have an SS plate 5200'ed to the transom with the transducer bolts countersunk on. As soon as I glued it on I felt like I was stuck with it the way it was.... Especially since the pitot wasn't mounted :facepalm:

Bonus points for the clecos