The Tin Mule Resto

[GA_Boater]

Would a spray bottle work to mist the goop by keeping it damp so it doesn't harden as fast? That's if it doesn't eat a sprayer.

 

[sphelps]

That would sure make it easier .. If the spray bottle don't melt like you said ..

 

[sphelps]

I think i got about 99% of the crud off now ..Did some preliminary sanding also ..


GA , what do you think on this deck material .. Its aluminum and relatively light weight ..



I did the bare foot in the hot sun test and it got warm but not to bad really ...
It,s one of those wipe off grids that are recessed into the floor at building entrances ..

 

[GA_Boater]

Those panels are interesting and you get a flat deck. The wipe pads must be pretty durable. If you don't toast your your tootsies, why not?

How does the weight compare to 1/2" plywood? Will you be able to cut and fit for a full width deck or make some filler for the outside edge? I know my luck and would twist my ankle with a gap.

I like the product placement in the pic with the panel flat over the rib. Have one for me. :smile: Did the spray bottle melt?

Be sure to clean out the limber holes in the ribs. My Starcraft has a similar setup and when I pressure washed an unbelievable amount of crud got washed out. Old fish hooks, pennies, small nuts and bolts and plain old dirt and grunge.

 

[sphelps]

They may be a tad heavier than a piece of 1/2” .. More like a piece of 3/4” . I think I can add a piece of angle to the the seat supports to catch the ends .. I can cut filler pieces for outside edges .. It’s like a really tough outdoor carpet .. I may have some left I’ll let you know ..lol! The bottle held up ok ..It started to take a lot longer to prime after using it for a while though ..
Funny you mentioned the drains .. We just got some rain this morning and noticed it wasn’t flowing .. there was a ton of trash I dug out .. I wish the slots were just a bit larger . it won’t take much to clog up ..
I wish I knew the make of this boat .. It has 3 rivets on each side at the back where there was a logo plate .. Maybe I’ll make up my own brand name just to have people scratching their heads .. :lol:
“ uhhh yeah it’s a Sammycraft , They didn’t make many of em “ LOL !

 

[GA_Boater]

It took forever to clean the limbers. It was like the crud dried out and after aiming the PW tip at multiple angles and going back the now loose stuff came out again. And again and again!

I'll talk to iBoats about adding Sammycraft to the manufacturers list and you can start a thread - Show Off Your Sammycraft.

I used an HD bottle to spray diluted muratic acid once until it ate the spring after a few squirts. Not my brightest idea. :blue:

 

[sphelps]

Got 97% of all the paint and sillycone off now .. I used the Jasco premium epoxy/paint remover .. That stuff works pretty good ! Put one coat on and brush in while it’s still wet with a stiff nylon brush.. Scrape it down then do another coat the same way .. What little is left the RO and some 120 takes off . Also for around all the joints and rivets a fiber type wire wheel on a cordless drill did a great job ...
I probably could have just sanded and primed and paint but idk if the po had used any type etching primer or not . Didn’t want to take the chance.. I’ll probably stick with the ppg paint I’ve been using lately and use their bare aluminum primer ..
‘I think it’s an etching primer with ZC in it from what the sales guy said..
Hope everyone had a nice weekend !

 

[sphelps]

Trying to get the last off the silicon off the joints and rivets now .. You can really see all the dings and scratches once the paint is removed .. Not too bad of shape . I think the worst area is where the V bunks on the trailer crinkled and bent the hull up .. Im gunna add a roller up front on the trailer to help stop that from doing more damage i think .. Here are some pics ..
Looks like I have a Gator trailer .. Think I may take it down to a local sand blaster and let them clean it up and maybe shoot a coat of primer on it .. What are your thoughts on painting over 5200 ? I think there are some areas on the bottom that could use some caulking .. Or should I use the gluvit for that ...Can you thicken gluvit ?


Well I thought I was gunna add pics .. Its not allowing me at the moment ...Not sure whats going on ..:smash:

 

[GA_Boater]

Sam - The forum has a hair cross-wise today.

Gluvit is a form of epoxy and it can be thinned a little. I don't what, if anything, can be added to thicken. UV eats it up and paint works.

Here is a blurb about painting 5200 from the 3M FAQs;

Although 3M does not recommend the application of a finishes over our sealants, some boat owners and boat manufacturer's may choose to apply one. Many finishes contain solvents or plasticizers that can harm the cured sealant by causing it to swell or soften. This may also inhibit the drying or curing of the finish.

If you do chose to apply a finish over our sealants or adhesive/sealants, we strongly recommend testing your particular finish on a small sample area before application. Never apply a finish to uncured or freshly applied sealant less than 30 days old. The finish may prevent the sealant from curing completely.

Another potential problem is cracking of the finish. The cured sealants and adhesive/sealants are flexible. If movement of the substrates causes the cures sealant or adhesive/sealant to change it's shape, a more rigid paint film or other finish that has been applied on top will not change shape with the sealant and will likely crack and eventually flake off.

 

[kcassells]

Good info Ga

 

[Scott Danforth]

...Can you thicken gluvit ?

add fumed silica, it works to thicken gel and urethane, it will work with epoxeeeeeeeeee...... you can get it as thick as you want, right up to a paste.

 

[sphelps]

Thanks guys .. If I was gunna paint the outside white I would just caulk after paint .. Still thinking of paint colors for it ..
I have some airosil /cabosil . I think i might mix a small batch of the gluvit and thicken it just a bit and see how well it cures ...
My understanding is gluvit is kinda runny so it will seep down into the joints and rivets ..

 

[GA_Boater]

My understanding is gluvit is kinda runny so it will seep down into the joints and rivets ..

Just what I thought, too. Thickened would cover a leak and sanding makes for a thinner cover to crack or slough off. Runny flows into the seam or rivet with less chance of opening the leak.

So why the thickening question? Coronaboredom?

 

[sphelps]

There are just some places along the seams on the bottom that look like they need some sealant . Not the rivets as much as the overlap joints . If I paint the hull bottom white then it’s a no brainer ,caulk after paint .. But was thinking I may paint it silver metallic .. I know we are talking about just a mule here so I’m probably thinking too much .:facepalm:

 

[sphelps]

Lets try the pics again ..


Hmmm .... No workee again ..

 

[sphelps]

Gunna try this ... Think we need a drum roll ...........:cold:
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Some day the pics gods will shine on us ...

 

[sphelps]

Picked up the primer and paint yesterday .. I,ve decided to go with epoxy primer . I have enough to do the inside and out plus the trailer ..

 

[Chris in Utah]

Fun project Sam. I'm having the same problem adding photos... maybe the iBoat folks are busy with start of the season orders and don't have much time for forum tech support.

 

[sphelps]

Yeah ,its been down a while it must have been one heck of a gremlin ! I know they have been working trying to fix just haven't found the right button to push i guess ..

 

[GA_Boater]

Sam - Word has it that the fix in - Almost. Just a couple of kinks to work out.

I need to see paint dry.