Shoestring Starcraft SS160 Resto-mod - let the long slow road begin

[ShoestringMariner]

It's look exactly like mine....
Saltwater boater.... not to mention battery acid attacks on metal.
10+ years of running in the rough. No problem whatsoever

Excellent thanks

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Hey guys, just about to clad my boards with nautolex. Does anybody know if 3M 5200 will stick to vinyl?

It’s a little difficult to explain. But I’m wondering if I could use it as a thin bead of caulking on an edge I can’t wrap etc. (to the underside of the vinyl flooring)

If not would you guys happen to know a product that will?

Thanks in advance.

 

[renns]

I didn't test 5200, but did use the "Amazing Goop" and found it bonded very well to the vinyl. They sell that stuff in a wide range of packaging - Shoe Goop, Automotive Goop, Household Goop. It all looks and smells the same to me, but here's the one I used:

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Thanks. I’m thinking about not wrapping the vinyl at the ends like you did. I might elevate the loose edges upwards to cover the plywood gap but I worry that water will get under and creep down on the underside of the vinyl and potentially get under the skin where glue may not be 100% bonded. I did not varnish the top of the plywood out of adhesion concerns

 

[renns]

I was worried about the same issue, and I ran a thick bead of sealant between the edge of the deck board and that flap of flooring. Tooled with a finger, it made a good connection with the underside of the Nautolex, and the edge of the ply. The sealant used was a tube of some exterior polyurethane sealant that I had in the shop, and it bonded quite well. I trimmed the 'flap' size so it sits back in the groove of the splashrail (or is it 'chine'?) but not so far that it's binding up against the back of that groove. I'm happy with how that's worked out, and has already saved some random hardware from falling below deck during the restoration effort.

On the bow 'triangle' deck piece, I wish I had left a much bigger overhanging flap, as the flap could be run up the side of the hull, finishing off insides of the storage area under the bow seats. On my hull there's a couple of rib ends that run up above deck level, giving easy passage for random contaminants to make their way below deck. I only had 2-3" flap overhanging, which wasn't enough to close these off as I'd have liked.

 

[SHSU]

I did the 5200 route with SS staples. Haven't had any issues thus far.

SHSU

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I did the 5200 route with SS staples. Haven't had any issues thus far.

SHSU

Thanks, I’m definitely putting 5200 on the cut edges especially where there may be any voids.

I was worried about the same issue, and I ran a thick bead of sealant between the edge of the deck board and that flap of flooring. Tooled with a finger, it made a good connection with the underside of the Nautolex, and the edge of the ply. The sealant used was a tube of some exterior polyurethane sealant that I had in the shop, and it bonded quite well. I trimmed the 'flap' size so it sits back in the groove of the splashrail (or is it 'chine'?) but not so far that it's binding up against the back of that groove. I'm happy with how that's worked out, and has already saved some random hardware from falling below deck during the restoration effort.

On the bow 'triangle' deck piece, I wish I had left a much bigger overhanging flap, as the flap could be run up the side of the hull, finishing off insides of the storage area under the bow seats. On my hull there's a couple of rib ends that run up above deck level, giving easy passage for random contaminants to make their way below deck. I only had 2-3" flap overhanging, which wasn't enough to close these off as I'd have liked.

Thanks for this. Some good info there especially on the bow. I’ll make sure I leave extra material there. I left the original vinyl liner In it. It’s a similar colour blue to my flooring. The very edge of it has rolled up. I was thinking about trying to glue down the nautolex, then using a heat gun to soften the existing and see if I can’t glue that down so it will totally shed water.

But then again that will funnel water directly into my storage area. Perhaps it’s best I leave a gap around the edges…argh…I don’t know why I overthink everything to death but I end up driving myself in circles lol

 

[renns]

Leave the overthinking to me! Sounds like you're sorting out a plan. I think I recall seeing pics of your vinyl liner in the past. Makes sense. My hull had nothing of the sort - just a couple layers of runny paint down the inside of the hull. I rolled the new Rustoleum blue right overtop, to honour the efforts of painters past! And hopefully once cushions and all are in place it won't be really visible either.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Leave the overthinking to me! Sounds like you're sorting out a plan. I think I recall seeing pics of your vinyl liner in the past. Makes sense. My hull had nothing of the sort - just a couple layers of runny paint down the inside of the hull. I rolled the new Rustoleum blue right overtop, to honour the efforts of painters past! And hopefully once cushions and all are in place it won't be really visible either.

I was sorting out a plan. Then I gave up and sat down to have a Happy Friday bevvy lol.

But I think I might. Tonight I’m working on the road locker liner hope to have that completed and ready to go and maybe just maybe by the end of this weekend I’ll actually have floor panels in!

oh by the way, the fish on the end of the line do not care about runs. Nor do the kids on the tube behind the boat. Nor does the admiral when she kicks back with her feet up reading a book.

The season is almost here!

 

[renns]

You mentioned you'd picked up that aluminum T trim like I'd used for the deck panels. I have a couple of thoughts that might be of value:
1.) I cut the trim in my miter saw with very slow feed rate. That left a very smooth cut.
2.) The vertical leg of the 'T' is sort of barbed to grab on to the mortar in the original application. This requires a bit of a gap (~ 3/32") in the deck boards to fit that T in place, and once pushed into a snug gap might yank up on or damage the vinyl if you try to re-lift the trim for adjustment purposes. On one section I experimented with trimming away the lower section of the vertical leg of the 'T' in a jig in the table saw. That worked fine to eliminate the barb, but resulted in a much flimsier profile. I'd recommend leaving it alone and a fitting the deck panel gap to suit if you can. used the table saw and a jig, and it trimmed away fine but was quite a bit flimsier. I'd not recommend doing that unless you plan to use numerous fasteners.
3.) When drilling into the middle of the top of the 'T' for the rivet you'll end up breaking through right into the vertical leg of the 'T'. That tends to shove the drill bit one way or the other, resulting in an oval hole. A sharp bit, and very gentle advance when breaking through the far side seemed to eliminate that issue. I drilled and riveted at each stringer, and also in the lateral stringer ties that bridge the deck board seams. The outer edges in my application are pinched under the aluminum angle I used for the side panels.
4.) After finding that 'Goop' bonding so well to the Nautolex, I used a thick bead of that down the seam of each panel before I pushed the trim piece in place. Then I set a few weights on the trim in the areas where I wouldn't be riveting.
5.) Save the off-cuts, and they can be modified and used for a dressy cap over any seams in the Nautolex on the gunnel tops if you're going that route.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

You mentioned you'd picked up that aluminum T trim like I'd used for the deck panels. I have a couple of thoughts that might be of value:
1.) I cut the trim in my miter saw with very slow feed rate. That left a very smooth cut.
2.) The vertical leg of the 'T' is sort of barbed to grab on to the mortar in the original application. This requires a bit of a gap (~ 3/32") in the deck boards to fit that T in place, and once pushed into a snug gap might yank up on or damage the vinyl if you try to re-lift the trim for adjustment purposes. On one section I experimented with trimming away the lower section of the vertical leg of the 'T' in a jig in the table saw. That worked fine to eliminate the barb, but resulted in a much flimsier profile. I'd recommend leaving it alone and a fitting the deck panel gap to suit if you can. used the table saw and a jig, and it trimmed away fine but was quite a bit flimsier. I'd not recommend doing that unless you plan to use numerous fasteners.
3.) When drilling into the middle of the top of the 'T' for the rivet you'll end up breaking through right into the vertical leg of the 'T'. That tends to shove the drill bit one way or the other, resulting in an oval hole. A sharp bit, and very gentle advance when breaking through the far side seemed to eliminate that issue. I drilled and riveted at each stringer, and also in the lateral stringer ties that bridge the deck board seams. The outer edges in my application are pinched under the aluminum angle I used for the side panels.
4.) After finding that 'Goop' bonding so well to the Nautolex, I used a thick bead of that down the seam of each panel before I pushed the trim piece in place. Then I set a few weights on the trim in the areas where I wouldn't be riveting.
5.) Save the off-cuts, and they can be modified and used for a dressy cap over any seams in the Nautolex on the gunnel tops if you're going that route.

Thanks for that well written tutorial R! I really appreciate those tips. Anything to keep this thing moving is a very welcome thing. The light is fading fast on my deadline. And I don’t think I’m going to make it. I had a few setbacks with the rod locker. However I think it is now done, Save for a drain hole at either end, and I can finally move on with the floors.

I went with this light gray because it’s what the local marine guy had in stock. I sort of wish it was blue to match the rest of it but it’s only a rod/paddle/Long accessory locker.

The weather this week has taught me that ice does collect in the bottom of this boat, Unless stored at a very aggressive slope to drain. So this boat must be absolutely dry stored every winter or ice will damage things, especially this rod/utility locker

 

[renns]

Thanks for that well written tutorial R! I really appreciate those tips. Anything to keep this thing moving is a very welcome thing.

Based on the beautiful craftsmanship on that rod locker, I doubt I had anything particularly profound to offer! Good to see more progress, and yes, the sun is warm and birds are singing. Our lake is still locked up with hard water, but south facing shorelines, and sections with current are sketchy or opening. Won't be long now!
How much water/ice collected? Just at the bilge, or was it farther forward as well?

 

[classiccat]

Very nice/tidy work! That ski locker takes me back to the Glen (Dozer) builds.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Thanks guys, appreciate the good words.

Todays progress was slow but mostly rewarding.

I finished the rod locker and added led lights to the pan itself. The floor overhang should hide them from view. I was going to use 2 on one side but because it will be filled with stuff, I thought I’d light both sides. They are supposed to be waterproof. I’m leaving extra wire coiled on the outside of the pan in case I have to replace them. I wasn’t sure how well the pan was going to drill with the nautolex being freshly glued so I used sacrificial pieces of aluminum to drill through with a step bit. The results was a nice clean hole. I hope water draining through here doesn’t make the vinyl delaminate. If it does, I’ll add a grommet or something.

I added under floor seat blocks and installed stainless T nuts in case I want to change base types down the road. I’ll add 3M 5200 on them in case water pools below. I’m going to tape them off and fill the through holes with OTF preservative a few times and see how much soaks in to the drilled holes. Water is bound to get in here no matter how hard I try to keep it from getting in. Hmmm, so saying that, I think I won’t pad the underside of the T nut with 5200 after all as the water will need to drain out.

I also started cladding my boards with nautolex and I have to say that I’m not fond of the 390 premium marine adhesive I picked up. They don’t recommend cladding vertical surfaces with it, and I can see why….it calls for a 65-90 deg F cure temp over 24-48 hours. Looks like and may as well be sour cream. I wish I knew that before I ordered it.

So I’m guessing that I’ll be going back to contact cement for those surfaces. Anyone know how well this stands up in the sun?

 

[BWR1953]

I can't help with the Nautolex, but I have some experience with the t-nuts.

I mounted mine the exact same way as yours. And that turned out to be a mistake.

Months later, while installing the seat bolts, several of the t-nuts pulled free of the plywood underdeck backing plate and fell into the nether lands below the completed deck. Even though they were glued in place. I ended up having to find a way to fix the issue, which I did. Took me a long time and plenty of research. I also had to pay for some expensive bolts, but I got it done.

In your case, if you can, I'd remove the t-nuts from their current location. Then I'd pull the backing plate and sandwich the t-nuts between the main deck section and the backing plate, then reinstall the backing plate. That way, the t-nuts can't ever fall out.

Just a thought. Gained from painful experience.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I can't help with the Nautolex, but I have some experience with the t-nuts.

I mounted mine the exact same way as yours. And that turned out to be a mistake.

Months later, while installing the seat bolts, several of the t-nuts pulled free of the plywood underdeck backing plate and fell into the nether lands below the completed deck. Even though they were glued in place. I ended up having to find a way to fix the issue, which I did. Took me a long time and plenty of research. I also had to pay for some expensive bolts, but I got it done.

In your case, if you can, I'd remove the t-nuts from their current location. Then I'd pull the backing plate and sandwich the t-nuts between the main deck section and the backing plate, then reinstall the backing plate. That way, the t-nuts can't ever fall out.

Just a thought. Gained from painful experience.

Oh that sucks. I really appreciate this piece of advice. I do have rigid Styrofoam directly underneath these seat blocks however I never considered vibrations knocking them loose. It is possible in my case that they could drop out enough and fall out of alignment if I ever change seat bases making rethreading bolts impossible. The blocks are glued and screwed and can’t be taken apart however I think I have a fairly easy fix in mind.

 

[SHSU]

I didn't have issues with my T-nuts falling out, but I liberally coated them in epoxy while I was sealing the base. Just ran a tap through before I did the install with no issue. Once you get bolt in them, I don't see an issue. Its just in the interim if you leave them free.

SHSU

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Ok, todays slow poke progress.

I finished cladding the rest of the loose boards except for the small bow filler as it might need trimming down. I didn’t account for the folds of the nautolex in conjunction with the aluminum T bar trim. Cladding & installing that one after the others will ensure there’s no mistakes.

I added some aluminum discs to the bottom of the seat blocks to prevent the T-nuts from falling out. I do worry that the wood will rot around them but the holes through the nautolex are snide so hoping a dab of 4600 at the top of the machine screw shank will prevent water from getting in. The problem is, if it gets in, it won’t easily get out. In hindsight a thicker, drilled and tapped plate would have been best, but I’m not turning back now and by the time it rots out, I’ll be long done boating. To keep the bolt holes in the membrane snug, I used a small drill bit to drill through (from the back) and I used a tapered punch to enlarge the hole. I coated the seat flange bore with 5200 because this is one area that water will most certainly get in due to the taper-lock hub I’ve chosen to use.

Earlier I posted about being unhappy about choosing the 390 adhesive. I actually like it.
It applies nicely with a v notch rake and it holds nicely when cured.

I used it to lay the nautolex on the top surface only. It was forgiving enough to position the pattern and was fume free and water clean up. The air bubbles were easy to work out with the set of art rollers I picked up on Amazon for $30 Cdn. I did not wrap the edges at this time because it was not “instant tack”.

For the folds, I used contact cement and stainless staples. There might have been a better way to wrap corners, I don’t know, but the photos show how I did it. Paranoid me will probably put a dab of goop or 5200 on the very top corner as there is a potential for water getting in here. And all of these locations will be hidden by hatch flange, side boards etc.

 

[renns]

Nice craftsmanship at work here! When do the panels go in for good? Rivets or screws?

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Nice craftsmanship at work here! When do the panels go in for good? Rivets or screws?

Thanks Renns, Just finishing up the last panel this morning. And I am helping my son with his brakes later today. So the boat will get shoehorned back into the garage. I’m hoping to fasten them in by the end of the day but we’ll see. And they will be riveted down like you did yours. I picked up the all aluminum wide flange rivets this week. I ordered the longer ones from the link you provided me so the outer perimeter may have to wait to be pinned down.

But that’s OK. That gives me some time to start working on the side panels And the front V bench. I’m bending up a new upstand. Shorter configuration, 90° corners. Leaving room for a future slide in live well / chair base. I’m also just going to do a drop in board with a swivel base on it in case I don’t need the live well. future phase #20 something. This build thread will probably be the longest on this sites history. Not a goal, just the way I work.