Shoestring Starcraft SS160 Resto-mod - let the long slow road begin

[ShoestringMariner]

I spent time this weekend tweaking my floor boards. I routed and filled the sloppy notches in the large front floor panel. Still not as tight a fit as I like, but it will look much better and I will be able to rivet them. I routed and filled the sloppy notches in the front piece too. I hope these are strong enough for fastening. We will find out.

I also made some stringer extensions and will be finishing that off this week.

I hope to have all the floor pieces fit and in place so I can mock up the consoles and figure out the floor base under floor blocking.

I also ran a length of 1/2” pvc tubing under the floor as a rough in for a future live well supply.

 

[renns]

Looking good! Does your hull have lateral members between stringers on 4 ft spacings? My Aluminum Goods SS16 clone had those which worked out great for keeping the edges of the deck aligned at the seams.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Looking good! Does your hull have lateral members between stringers on 4 ft spacings? My Aluminum Goods SS16 clone had those which worked out great for keeping the edges of the deck aligned at the seams.

Thanks, no just 2 stringers parallel to the keel. Going back yo your thread to see if I can see what your talking about

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Wondering what to do with the console face plates. They are completely roached. I was thinking about trying to retain the original vinyl cladding but one of them is cracked and starting to fail.

Part of me wants to do something really nice (solid epoxy & spar varnished wood) but because I move like a snail, I think that might me an option best left for a future winter upgrade.

Thoughts on a quick and nice looking dash option?

 

[renns]

Thanks, no just 2 stringers parallel to the keel. Going back yo your thread to see if I can see what your talking about

Here's a shot showing those cross-pieces. They worked out really nicely, as the flange is quite wide, giving lots of support to both edges.

 

[renns]

Wondering what to do with the console face plates. They are completely roached. I was thinking about trying to retain the original vinyl cladding but one of them is cracked and starting to fail.

Part of me wants to do something really nice (solid epoxy & spar varnished wood) but because I move like a snail, I think that might me an option best left for a future winter upgrade.

Thoughts on a quick and nice looking dash option?

I peeled the old vinyl off, and re-wrapped in fresh vinyl with a couple layers of that closed-cell foam that's used for laminate flooring underlayment underneath. It gave the vinyl a 'cushy' feel. Not sure if I have any pics, but will post here if I find one. I used the same closed-cell foam material for my side panels as well, and they turned out pretty decent.

 

[Moserkr]

Here's a shot showing those cross-pieces. They worked out really nicely, as the flange is quite wide, giving lots of support to both edges.
View attachment 356460

I added lateral members to mine, and starcraft originally supplied “floorboard connecting strips” of AL. At least use the original.

B

Wondering what to do with the console face plates. They are completely roached. I was thinking about trying to retain the original vinyl cladding but one of them is cracked and starting to fail.

Part of me wants to do something really nice (solid epoxy & spar varnished wood) but because I move like a snail, I think that might me an option best left for a future winter upgrade.

Thoughts on a quick and nice looking dash option?

Redoing the dash with new stained and sealed mahogany wood took me one day. Once you get those nails out of the trim, you wont want to do it again, especially after your electronics and steering are in! Vinyl wrap is even faster but not my style. Wood looks so much nicer.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Ah yes, mine has the flat strips at board connections. I’ll be replacing these with new ones. @renns ; I will be adding aluminum channel or Z bars in 2 places between the stringers to frame out the rod locker. I may also add a low profile hat channel in a few places to support the floor over the locker void.

@Moserkr ; maybe that’s the best, do it now. I have some black walnut that might look pretty rich. I’ll have to epoxy coat and spar varnish it well. I don’t think it will stand up in the elements otherwise

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Ok I’m scrapping the walnut idea for the dash. I want maintenance free and a solid wood dash as beautiful as it will be, will need periodical varnishing which will be a mess if I don’t keep up on it.

Aside from attempting to keep the existing cladding or cladding with new nautolex, any other cool, low maintenance ideas?

Edit: anyone know what the material is on this one? Looks like composite material

 

[renns]

I don't know if you'd get much more rugged that Nautolex. I've gone with the marine upholstery vinyl, which should hold up fine so long as the fish hooks and other sharp objects stay out of it.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I just updated the last post with a nice pic. Not sure if plastic or vinyl clad

 

[renns]

Interesting. Lots of differences here between the Alum Good version and the 'real' SS16. On mine the plywood dash panel is slotted between an aluminum angle and the flanged lip on the dash structure. It slides up from below, and is screwed in place from behind. The top of the console overlaps with the gunnel, and an aluminum extrusion/rubrail piece runs all the way from the transom, then curves 90 deg to finish off the top of the dash panel. I kinda like(d) it, but the admiral voiced her concerns with it yesterday. She's asking if I can replace it with just a formed aluminum angle, or replace the black rub-rail with white. Fortunately the rubrail rubbers can be re-used on the outside of the boat, where replacements are already needed!
Here's what it looked like before I ripped into it last fall. Nice carpet detail on the top of the windscreen, eh?

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Oh that’s right, you have the curved rail thing. I like it. Is the black rubber leaving marks when you touch it? Wonder if a rubber conditioner would solve that.

The windshield carpet is the tarp/cover saver?

 

[renns]

Oh that’s right, you have the curved rail thing. I like it. Is the black rubber leaving marks when you touch it? Wonder if a rubber conditioner would solve that.

The windshield carpet is the tarp/cover saver?

No, the black isn't leaving marks, and is the same profile as the lower rub-rail on the outside of the hull. I like the curved detail, and the way it trims out that portion of the interior, but the rub-rail isn't that useful as its on the inside.
The carpet strip was the old feller's mooring cover saver. Contact cement and strips of blue indoor/outdoor carpeting!

 

[ShoestringMariner]

The carpet strip was the old feller's mooring cover saver. Contact cement and strips of blue indoor/outdoor carpeting!

I bet that was fun to remove!

 

[renns]

Hah! Yet another reason to replace the windscreen. First reason is the nasty 'crazing' of the plastic (see photo above).

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Any of you guys use a seat base this high?

I’m trying to figure out my V bench and seat mounting options. Ie; Deep footwell and tall seat post, or shallow footwell with a seat base on top of the bench. Worried that a short post on top will mean the seat position will feel cramped.

Any of you Super owner have fishing seats up front?

Anyone use a seat post this tall? I’m using the Springfield Taperlock series. I want to be sure it’s stable

 

[Michigan Lakes]

Any of you guys use a seat base this high?

Yes. Your photo looks like the standard "Wise" brand seat base. I'm reasonably happy with them (photo below from my initial test fit 3 years ago). I briefly considered cutting mine down as some guys have, but I don't spend that much time actually piloting the boat. On nicer days, I often sit directly on top of the two seat cushions for a clearer, unobstructed view. More than anything, a taller windshield would likely solve some of these boat's ergonomic issues. On the other hand, I like that it fits cleanly under my 80" garage door opening.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Yes. Your photo looks like the standard "Wise" brand seat base. I'm reasonably happy with them (photo below from my initial test fit 3 years ago). I briefly considered cutting mine down as some guys have, but I don't spend that much time actually piloting the boat. On nicer days, I often sit directly on top of the two seat cushions for a clearer, unobstructed view. More than anything, a taller windshield would likely solve some of these boat's ergonomic issues. On the other hand, I like that it fits cleanly under my 80" garage door opening.
View attachment 356593

Hey look at that. This is exactly how mines going to look. Same colour patterns everything… thanks for posting the photo!

I think I asked my question poorly. I was referring to the swivel seat up in the bow section. It appears to be a very tall seat post that I can’t help wonder if it’s stable. Obviously not for sitting on while the boat is in high speed motion, only for when fishing with the trolling motor.

But I do the same thing that you do when I’m driving. (Sit on top of the sleeper seats)

Hey, where did you find the white glove box door? It is not original, is it?

 

[Moserkr]

I forgot who, but someone built a removable base that sits at the cushion level in the bow. That way you are up higher while fishing, and the post is average height. Although I have bow seating, I have a spot for a swivel chair up front as well on my “casting deck”. Either way I think you would be fine, but a backing plate should be used. I put a 1/8” plate behind my seat mount, sandwiching the casting deck floor. Extremely solid.