Shoestring Starcraft SS160 Resto-mod - let the long slow road begin

[ShoestringMariner]

That's awesome! We're in opposite order, with my foam and floor just completed, working on side panels next. If there's time, maybe I should flip it over again, and paint rather than leave bare with sharkhide. How much primer/paint was needed for that bottom section? Did you prime the whole hull, and just tape off and finish paint the bottom? I need to go back and check your earlier posts....

Thanks. I only paid at the bottom at this time. I didn’t want to get into extending the painting process at all. I figured that if I still have time left before the spring opener I’ll paint the top side while it’s on the trailer. If not I’ll leave it for next winter. The lake opens may 1st and I still have so much to do. My work week is long and I’m often burnt out weeknights so not much work happens until the weekend.

For quantities, I ended up using a quart and a half for the bottom. 1/2 quart per coat for primer. Probably a 1/4 to 3rd quart per coat on the bottom topcoat due to thinner viscosity. There’s 4 white coats on it to make the colour consistent. Do you guys think that’s enough for build?

 

[renns]

Thanks for the info. That helps greatly in evaluating my needs should I go that route.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Made some real progress this weekend and a potential setback depending on how I address a few things.

First, got it back on the trailer and squeezed back in the garage. I’ll deal with trailer upgrades this summer while the boat is in the water.

Then I started with the floatation foam and got it about 75% done. Still debating on whether I should go with a rod locker or not. I can’t recall how much styrofoam went under the rearmost floor section (directly under the splashwell) when I did the transom.
I figure I’ll have about 16 cu ft of rigid foam board underneath the floors or behind the side panels if I make a 7’ long x 16” wide rod locker.
Do you guys think that will be enough?
I will have a house battery, 2group 27 lead acid batteries up front, a bow mount trolling motor and a 8 or 9.9 kicker on top of a 50/60/70 OMC triple on back. Oh, and a CMC tilt unit which I’m keeping so I can quick change motors. So a fair bit of weight.

I test fit the replacement floor panels that I made off of the badly deteriorated old floor boards. I wish I haven’t because the last guy who did the floors did a sloppy job. I didn’t notice at tear down as it was so rotten. And here is where my setback might lie. I really don’t like the big honking cutouts which won’t allow fastening to ribs, and the forward curve ended up being about an inch short of the hull which will allow small debris and things to get below deck. Aad I don’t like the short, front section has to be scabbed on, though I do like how it fits at the top of the bow)

So I might redo these pieces starting with a 4’ wide sheet from the bow top back instead of scabbing the bow bit on. I know these areas are concealed by the bow seat but there will be hatches and I’ll see these deficiencies.
I’m going to consider these options carefully. Any time saving/easy fix thoughts from you guys would be welcome. I don’t want to be going too far backwards if I can help it. But I think redoing at least the big panel may be the only option due to the lack of fastening at the notches. It won’t be a total waste, I can cut smaller things out of this one.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

A closer investigation proved that the notches weren’t as bad. The board was Elevated at the front from some insulation that I had not trimmed. It is now laying flatter and closer to the bow. I think I might have a solution for filling the two front notches. I’m thinking about scabbing in a couple of 3/8” thick pieces with a router. This will provide the top surface to be flat for the nautolex to sit on nicely. I think remaking these parts would be a waste of time and material. I might flash in to cover the gaps with something anyway as the rivet seam is exposed between the original vinyl covering and the new floor.
It’s workable I think.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I made an error on my styrofoam calculation. I think I may only be able to get 8 cu ft or so of foam in the boat if I go with an in-floor rod locker.

I think my boat may be running at about 1400-1500lbs equipped weight (with all batteries, both trollers, tools, anchor etc)

I can’t recall where I got the displacement values of the boat should it be submerged, but I think I recall that I need in and around 10-12 cu ft of styrofoam, which means no rod locker.

Does this sound right?

12 cu ft would be +\- 725 lbs of floatation value.

Do you guys think that this might prevent a total loss should it become totally swamped?

 

[Moserkr]

The boat is looking great! Just caught up on the thread again. I remember when my floors went in, it started getting a lot more fun fast!

I know starcraft made boats with rod lockers from pics Ive seen, so I would keep it. I wanted one in mine too. They also didnt use near the quality foam we use today. Behind my side panels under the gunnel shelfs, I was able to stuff a substantial amount of foam too, almost a full 2”x4’x8’ sheet I believe. Im not sure on the numbers, but I fit around 2.75 sheets of the 2” in my boat. Have a hard time believing it will sink. Seat cushions add floatation as well, and so does the fuel tank if I remember correctly (depending on how full?). Was also figuring I could stuff more foam underneath the upper part of the gunnel rail if I needed to but never did that. Could fit a piece under the bow cap too and around the splashwell too if you really wanted to.

What you cant do is find more storage space, so a rod locker is priceless for that.

 

[renns]

Nice progress! I've been preoccupied with other things, but need to get back in action ASAP. Spring is coming! My hull has the sides spray-foamed below the shelf, and thick in the area under and around the splashwell. That adds some extra foam area that you may not have? @Moserkr mentions that option in post previous.
Are you concerned about swamping at the slip/dock, or when out on the water somewhere? A functioning bilge pump will surely give some time to get back to shore unless you're out in the big lakes.

 

[SHSU]

I made an error on my styrofoam calculation. I think I may only be able to get 8 cu ft or so of foam in the boat if I go with an in-floor rod locker.

I think my boat may be running at about 1400-1500lbs equipped weight (with all batteries, both trollers, tools, anchor etc)

I can’t recall where I got the displacement values of the boat should it be submerged, but I think I recall that I need in and around 10-12 cu ft of styrofoam, which means no rod locker.

Does this sound right?

12 cu ft would be +\- 725 lbs of floatation value.

Do you guys think that this might prevent a total loss should it become totally swamped?

I can't say, but I do know I put more Styrofoam in when I replaced what Starcraft installed from factory.

SHSU

 

[ShoestringMariner]

The boat is looking great! Just caught up on the thread again. I remember when my floors went in, it started getting a lot more fun fast!

I know starcraft made boats with rod lockers from pics Ive seen, so I would keep it. I wanted one in mine too. They also didnt use near the quality foam we use today. Behind my side panels under the gunnel shelfs, I was able to stuff a substantial amount of foam too, almost a full 2”x4’x8’ sheet I believe. Im not sure on the numbers, but I fit around 2.75 sheets of the 2” in my boat. Have a hard time believing it will sink. Seat cushions add floatation as well, and so does the fuel tank if I remember correctly (depending on how full?). Was also figuring I could stuff more foam underneath the upper part of the gunnel rail if I needed to but never did that. Could fit a piece under the bow cap too and around the splashwell too if you really wanted to.

What you cant do is find more storage space, so a rod locker is priceless for that.

Thanks!
A full 2” x 48” x 86” sheet should have about 322 pounds of flotation value. That’s pretty substantial. My boat does not have any form under the gunnels or bow. I have added some underneath the splashwell. How did you fasten the foam under your gunnel? Adhesive?

I didn’t know that seat cushions had flotation value. I just more or less assumed that because they are soft it would act like a sponge and not a flotation device.

And yes a road locker is certainly something I would like to add. I’d rather not be tripping over those I’ve broken enough, Plus I’d like it to look nice and clean & tidy.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Nice progress! I've been preoccupied with other things, but need to get back in action ASAP. Spring is coming! My hull has the sides spray-foamed below the shelf, and thick in the area under and around the splashwell. That adds some extra foam area that you may not have? @Moserkr mentions that option in post previous.
Are you concerned about swamping at the slip/dock, or when out on the water somewhere? A functioning bilge pump will surely give some time to get back to shore unless you're out in the big lakes.

It certainly is coming fast. My brothers boat is identical. Spray foam everywhere.

Ultimately I’d like to have enough flotation foam low enough that should we open it up like a can opener on a rock I would like to know that it would at least stay up right, and possibly even power itself slowly back to shore like I’ve seen in some late model boat videos.

But worst case scenario I would like to know it’s not a total loss on the bottom of the lake somewhere. Even if the motor gets swamped and won’t run, it is still towable and or recoverable.

And yes I’m actually adding two 1000 GPH bilge pumps. One front and one rear. The rear will be an auto bilge to look after things while we are away. I saw a boat sinking on a video where the bow was going down first. Don’t plan on being that guy. (Or any guy swimming around with whatever floated around after the boat went down)

BTW we don’t have an underfloor fuel tank. So our tanks would float out.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Cause this is me about the thought of sinking miles from shore on lake O or Erie.

 

[Moserkr]

Between the belly and under the gunnel shelf, Id guess you could fit 2-3 2x48x96” sheets like I did. I lost some belly foam to my fuel tank sitting below the front raised deck, so that subtracted 3’ of foam down the middle.

You could easily attach a large piece under the bow cap, and my plan along the gunnels was to wedge them in tight with a little adhesive. I never did either the bow or upper gunnels just because I thought I had plenty. Its good to have foam up high too so if your boat does go down, it stays upright. Last place to add it is around the transom. Lots of space there.

My gunnel shelf foam layer extends all the way from the front of the consoles to the transom. Most boats Ive seen just put foam between the 2 vertical supports but I tied in my side panels from the stern to console, mainly to keep her more stout, but also gained space for more foam.

Ive been on big water in little boats and understand your worry - my friend kissed the ground after duck hunting one day on Flathead Lake, MT. Storm came out of nowhere, went from glass to 4’ swells instantly. 14’ AL boat with a little motor that kept cutting out + wearing waders = not fun.

You can always fill your rod locker with more foam, but you cant take the foam out of the rod locker you never built…. Just my thoughts. Id say get creative and find every nook and cranny to fill with foam! And keep the locker.

 

[renns]

Moserkr, your further comments remind me that my hull (Starcraft clone) also has spray foam under the bow cap, and also billets of beaded nastiness rattling loose under the gunnels. Here's hoping none of us ever have to test those features!

 

[Moserkr]

Anything is better than the handful of rotten styrofoam I found in my boat. Thank god it wasnt sprayed in at least. Almost sank her before the resto when I lost a rivet, and she took water up to the floorboards. The 1000 gph bilge ran for 5 minutes to drain her…

I like your idea of 2 bilges bow/stern shoestring. I have one auto and one manual, both in the stern. Not taking my boat on big big water like you though. Great lakes are pretty much the ocean. Will both your bilges be hardwired autos?

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Between the belly and under the gunnel shelf, Id guess you could fit 2-3 2x48x96” sheets like I did. I lost some belly foam to my fuel tank sitting below the front raised deck, so that subtracted 3’ of foam down the middle.

You could easily attach a large piece under the bow cap, and my plan along the gunnels was to wedge them in tight with a little adhesive. I never did either the bow or upper gunnels just because I thought I had plenty. Its good to have foam up high too so if your boat does go down, it stays upright. Last place to add it is around the transom. Lots of space there.

My gunnel shelf foam layer extends all the way from the front of the consoles to the transom. Most boats Ive seen just put foam between the 2 vertical supports but I tied in my side panels from the stern to console, mainly to keep her more stout, but also gained space for more foam.

Ive been on big water in little boats and understand your worry - my friend kissed the ground after duck hunting one day on Flathead Lake, MT. Storm came out of nowhere, went from glass to 4’ swells instantly. 14’ AL boat with a little motor that kept cutting out + wearing waders = not fun.

You can always fill your rod locker with more foam, but you cant take the foam out of the rod locker you never built…. Just my thoughts. Id say get creative and find every nook and cranny to fill with foam! And keep the locker.

Thanks for the thoughts. I know I need to be careful with fuel spills in the boat. I’m definitely also going to add foam up high where I can. With changing weather patterns I want to be prepared and that’s an interesting concept of adding foam (or some type of portable floatation)

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Anything is better than the handful of rotten styrofoam I found in my boat. Thank god it wasnt sprayed in at least. Almost sank her before the resto when I lost a rivet, and she took water up to the floorboards. The 1000 gph bilge ran for 5 minutes to drain her…

I like your idea of 2 bilges bow/stern shoestring. I have one auto and one manual, both in the stern. Not taking my boat on big big water like you though. Great lakes are pretty much the ocean. Will both your bilges be hardwired autos?

The rear one will be for sure. Possibly both. With a rod locker and tubes running up front, there could be a substantial area for water to collect and weigh her down. There’s not much of a bilge area at the back. I’m not sure what to expect when water does enter the bilge. It could push its way to the front and change the centre of balance quickly.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Hey guys, question about a live-well rough in.

If I want to add a live well up front someday, should I add any rough in components below the floor just in case? Ie; run a fill hose from the rear bilge well to the front? I assume the fill port will be one of those screen doohickeys that I see near the plug?

 

[SHSU]

Hey guys, question about a live-well rough in.

If I want to add a live well up front someday, should I add any rough in components below the floor just in case? Ie; run a fill hose from the rear bilge well to the front? I assume the fill port will be one of those screen doohickeys that I see near the plug?

I created my two livewells to run separate. That way I can leave one dry or run different refill schedules depending on the bait. That being said, don't know if I would run pipe for something I "might do". Other option is to prerun a couple pull lines. That way if you do decide to do it, its easy to attach and pull your tubing through. If not, its only some string.

SHSU

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I created my two livewells to run separate. That way I can leave one dry or run different refill schedules depending on the bait. That being said, don't know if I would run pipe for something I "might do". Other option is to prerun a couple pull lines. That way if you do decide to do it, its easy to attach and pull your tubing through. If not, its only some string.

SHSU

I hear what you’re saying but I don’t think I can be guaranteed I could pull a length of hose through with a string for fear it would get caught on ribs, Styrofoam etc.

I’m going to give this a little more thought. I might run a small piece of PVC tube right down the centre of the keel from front bilge to rear bilge with a scrap wire through it. Then I know I can pull something through without it getting stuck.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

And I think I’ve decided to go with a rod locker. However I’m not going to try and make this into a bass boat style Rod Locker with the PVC tubes. I brought a chunk of one and a half inch PVC home to test. It’s fine for the 6’6” spinning rods, but jumbo or downrigger rods or anything longer than 7 foot will have to be doubled up. Which does not look like it wants to go into inch and a half PVC pipe Due to the size of the rod eyes. So I would have to go up to the next size PVC or ABS pipe which limits the number of rods I can put in side-by-side. So I think I’m just going to do an open tray. More or less a ski locker I suppose. I might try some of those rod socks on the rods I can leave attached/full length. Those are the ones I use most commonly anyway.