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Woodonglass

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Sam, My Nephew is in the Sprinkler business. According to him the CPVC Orange pipe in the Schedule 40 version 1/2" size is rated @ 600 hydrostatic psi. Most PVC psi ratings are for Water NOT AIR. He said "Rule of Thumb" Air is 25% of that sooo, He's guessing 150 psi would be close.:noidea:

With that Big Compressor I would NOT use PVC.

Check this out...

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ruptured-pvc-air-lines-what-not-do-230253/
 
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gm280

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I have been reading and researching pipe fitting for air supplies as well. One day maybe I will get to us that knowledge. Black pipe does rust, but with the proper setup no rust would ever make it to the air tools or spray gun. But there is also galvanized pipe as well. IDK :noidea:
 

sphelps

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No way I,m using pvc . Just thought the orange stuff had a higher psi rating ..
I guess I could use galv pipe . But in my harsh salt environment even that may rust over time .. Also would need a pipe threader if not purchased pre threaded ..
 

archbuilder

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I was at Northern Tool yesterday looking at the Rapidair display. The 1/2" seems kind of flimsy but is probably fine IDK? The 3/4" is much more durable looking, it has an aluminum core. I was thinking the 3/4" would work better if I get a blast cabinet (more volume). The 3/4" seems like it would be great to surface mount, but a chore to get in the wall cavity. They do have really nice billet aluminum manifolds to screw your air chucks into. The 3/4" is fairly pricey also.
 

gm280

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This stuff is Rated @ 150 psi...http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...MxQaAqq48P8HAQ

You can get 1/2" Schedule 40 aluminum tubing for around $1.00ft. Threaded fittings are kinda pricey!!!

WOG, look good to me EXCEPT only being 150psi max rated doesn't make me feel very good about it. I presently don't use that high a psi, but a lot of the larger compressors can easily supply 175psi without issue. I can easily see an explosion when it breaks or splits open. I'm still leaning towards either galvanized pipe or copper. Yes copper is expensive, but it is also a one time cost. And I did manage to buy a very nice Rigid brand Pipe Threader off EBay some years ago for a song. It will do 1/2", 3/4" and 1" pipe threading. And it really isn't that hard to do either. If you have a good vice and some pipe wrenches, it works pretty easy. Well worth the price in my opinion. IDK :noidea:
 

zool

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I used 3/4 and 1 inch copper in a sweated full loop around the ceiling, with a few drops here and there...its all pitched to a drain drop with a standard shutoff valve.


When ever I need another drop, its easy to sweat in a new Tm as opposed to T'ing in to threaded pipe. Its been up for a few years now, and kept under pressure without any problems. I have 1 drop for paint filters, another with a filter and tool oiler, and a ceiling one with a retractable hose.

All the piping, shutoffs and connections came from Home Depot. I also added dual compressor connections so it can be Juiced up to whatever I need.

Now I just need to get some cash for a new compressor or two ;)
 

Decker83

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I'm with archbuilder ^^^ Why have all that much compressor and choke it down with 1/2" pipe.. No smaller than 3/4" pipe for me.. Even 1" like Zool has..
 

gm280

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Other than the price what is the difference between type "L" and type "M" copper pipe ? Thickness?http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerro-3-...-Hard-Temper-Straight-Pipe-3-4-M-10/100354200
All good discussion going on here fella's thanks !
Btw , found a pretty good deal on a nice bow mount T/M just around the corner from me today ... 70 lbs/24 v foot peddle steering ..

Yes Sam it is the thickness. But I can't remember now if "M" was thicker then "L" but the price will tell you. But also the thicker will hold more pressure as well. Copper is a good choice because if it ever ruptures it doesn't blow pieces all over the place like they say PCV does. It merely splits or pin-holes and just spews air. :noidea:
 

archbuilder

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I believe that L is a heavier wall than M. I think I am going to break down and surface mount my drops on the wall later. They would be cleaner in the wall, but I think in my case trying to cram most of the options in my wall isn't all that feasible at this point. You would think someone would have figured out an economical product that was easy to install. Right now I'm leaning towards the 3/4" copper for the drops. I can get nice strait drops and surface mount them. Zool do you remember if you used L or M?
 

sphelps

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The L is more expensive ... I,m thinking either one will should be plenty strong ...
 

zool

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I cant remember which I used, I do remember reading the L is he better choice, but knowing me, I used the cheaper one :D

I also used a standoff setup for the piping, was just a flange, threaded rod, and pipe clamp, all from home depot. The standoffs made it ready to attach to the wall, and run straight into the filters,

Ill take some pics later today and show everything I used
 

kcassells

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K ...........Thickest, used for underground........................................Green code color on pipe
L............Next, interior, domestic hot/cold and anything else............Blue code color
M...........Baseboard heat and hot water applications.......................Red code color
DWV......Drainage, Waste, Vent...drain pipes..................................Yellow code color
 
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kcassells

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You definitely should use the L for air pressure. I have even seen guys braze the joints vs. solder but the solder will just fine. The braze was for extremely high pressure and then over that they used straight black pipe.
Good luck with the new compressor Sam.
 

kcassells

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I have been reading and researching pipe fitting for air supplies as well. One day maybe I will get to us that knowledge. Black pipe does rust, but with the proper setup no rust would ever make it to the air tools or spray gun. But there is also galvanized pipe as well. IDK :noidea:


Well we're running air with drip legs and filters and collectors so rust won't occur. In addition galvanised pipe is nothing but black pipe with a coating. So at anything requiring a thread the galvanised is lost and not really a considerations. In the day black pipe was the tried true way to go. L copper is better and does the job.
 

kcassells

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Each color code mentioned above reflects the wall thickness frm K being the thickest to DWV being the least thick. All code types reflect the proper applications. IE:
DWV...yellow..least thickest for drainage, hence NO presuure.
Welcome to MY world.
 

jakedaawg

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Not intending to hijack here but...

I really like the idea of plumbing via copper to all the places in the shop that I would like to hook up air hoses for tools.

Do they make fittings that let you go from your tank to sweated copper lines? And then back from copper to the air chucks or whatever they are called? I suppose know the technical names would help. Seems to me that to hook into the tank it would need to be threaded on one side and then sweatable copper on the other side?

What do you google to find them?
 

jbcurt00

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Google the coupler sizes needed

Threaded brass (or maybe copper, depending on ID/OD needed) will connect tank to line and back.

It'll be threaded on 1 end and a sweat fitting on the other.
 

gm280

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I would think with the tremendous vibration involved with the compressor running, maybe a flexible hose from the compressor for the first fitting would be needed. But I honestly don't know. Seems like a rigid copper connection would eventual stress to the breaking point. But like I said, I really don't know that for certain. Just thinking out loud! :noidea:
 
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