Rochester 2gv

Jakem

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I haven't the foggiest as to were the float keeper went and as to why the accelerator pump boot is ripped. It seem to have went together fine when I put top back on.
 

jimmbo

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Hell of a Way to start a Thread. What is this supposed to be about?
 

Jakem

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Lol sorry. I was posting on a different thread I had going and switched here in hopes the fellows I was talking with would respond here. I have a new rochester 2gv and it's been a headache. I pulled top off to check float heights and the keeper is missing and the plunger is wrecked
 

Scott06

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Lol sorry. I was posting on a different thread I had going and switched here in hopes the fellows I was talking with would respond here. I have a new rochester 2gv and it's been a headache. I pulled top off to check float heights and the keeper is missing and the plunger is wrecked
The pin that holds in the float and it pivots on can easily drop out when inverting the carb top, and it’s easy to tear the accelerator pump cup when reassembling it. Been there more than once … both parts should be easily available

Last time I took my edlebrock apart I lost a rod off the choke linkage took the entire workbench area apart looking for it and never found it … had to buy a new one
 

Jakem

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I took it out today and ran good. I'm going to pull the spark plugs tomorrow and see how they read. I still have the bog if I crack it open fast. But I never do anyways its not a race boat
 

Jakem

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Do you think that bog issue is related to accelerator pump. Like shall I play with adjusting the rod
 

Jakem

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I didn't change my plugs before I went out after last check that revealed lein. Here pics of them after a 6 hour day
 

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Scott06

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Do you think that bog issue is related to accelerator pump. Like shall I play with adjusting the rod
Did u replace the pump cup/ boot. Yes the accelerator pump is the first place i would look if there is a bog when hitting it… you can bend the rod to get more pump stoke and thus bigger shot. you want to make sure the linkage has no slop in it for delayed response. When you look down the carb And stab the throttle do you get two good streams of gas out of nozzles.

on my gto which has 2 jets i drilled out yhe accelerator pump discharge holes from .026” to .030 to get more shot, but that was after doing tweaks to the linakge to eliminate the slop

plugs look better a tad on the rich side compared to original plug pics. You might be too rich but that is better than being lean. Leave it and run it for a while see how fouled the plugs get.
 

Jakem

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I did replace the cup yes. I will look for the gas shot and make sure I got good flow. I'm glad you didn't say still way to lean lol
 

dubs283

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Your plugs look fine to me

I've commented before and based on your threads I'd say your okay

Carb issues aside, seems your ignition system is tip top. Curious as to how many hours since the rebuild. Also, number of/time of wot runs
 

Jakem

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Probably about 60 hours I guess...my longest run I make is about 30 min from the dock but not always calm waters. When it's calm enough I probably go wide open 10 to 15 min maybe but normally just cruise with bursts of wide open so I feel 20 again
 

dubs283

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Based on those numbers the engine is fully broke in. There's no need to not go wot as long as you like as long as you aren't experiencing pinging/detonation

Iirc this carb is a used/rebuilt replacement for the original? You can still rebuild the old one, check the jet size in that and compare to the new. Easy to clean/rebuild the old 2bbl Rochesters.

Mikes can sell you individual air horn/top cover gaskets too for future investigations
 

Jakem

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I've done the jets. They were .70. I was given .77 and that's what I ran last time out. I have .76....74...and 72 jets that I ordered. The carb is a new remand.
 

Jakem

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I've been playing with pump rod and cannot get rid of bog. Like I say only initial if I hit it. There is lots of gas when hit...to much perhaps...shall I go smaller jets
 

Jakem

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Is it possible to get a pic of how the pump should look when it's set right.
 

dubs283

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You should buy a mercruiser factory manual. Most likely 2 or 3 depending on s/n.

Most of the questions you post here can be answered with the manual. With the manual you get the factory spec for your engine/fuel/ignition system. Here you get mostly good/correct answers but again, public forum anyone can post
 

Jakem

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I'd gladly buy one. I don't know the serial number.this book came with boat and has lots of info however not much on the 302.
 

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dubs283

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That's a mercury pubIished book but more like an owners manual. Still good info but not as detailed as a fsm.

Ebay would be my first source if I needed manual 1, 2 or 3. Start there
 
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