Rochester 2gv

Scott06

Admiral
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Apr 20, 2014
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I've been playing with pump rod and cannot get rid of bog. Like I say only initial if I hit it. There is lots of gas when hit...to much perhaps...shall I go smaller jets
Somewhere thee is a pump rid height adjustment spec for the accelerator pump lever position vs the top of carb bowl. Ill see if i can find one.later mercarbs that are an evolution of the 2 jet have three holes in pump arm to adjust-shot volume.

you might be a tad rich but i would suspect that would come later in the holeshot as when you first hit the gas there is no flow out of venturi boosters until it gets airflow…
 

Jakem

Ensign
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Apr 25, 2021
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964
I adjusted pump rod to what my gasket set info suggested. Wich was 1.5 inch from were flame arrestor sits to top of pump rod.
 

Jakem

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Apr 25, 2021
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My pump cup seems to have alot of.play in the pump well...I feel it should be better fitting. Perhaps the new cup I put it is to small. Curious as to what's normal...3/4?
 

Scott06

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My pump cup seems to have alot of.play in the pump well...I feel it should be better fitting. Perhaps the new cup I put it is to small. Curious as to what's normal...3/4?
Cup should be tight fitting against sides of pump well.
not sure what you mean by 3/4” if diameter of pump well sounds right.
 

Jakem

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Apr 25, 2021
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I figured it out. Some idiot (me) forgot to put the spring back on the end of pump
 

Scott06

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I figured it out. Some idiot (me) forgot to put the spring back on the end of pump
Yeah that’s the same idiot who screws up my projects … only see him in the mirror otherwise hard to find….
 

kenny nunez

Captain
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Jun 20, 2017
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I once had a slight bogging problem and after removing the Venturi boosters and removed the check ball spring there were 2 springs that were wound around each other doubling the resistance. This was on a new engine that I had installed. The fuel would barely squirt.
 

Jakem

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Apr 25, 2021
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I stripped it right down and cleaned it all out. Regasket and just ran it on muffs...no bog....runs very smooth. I set float as well as pump rod. She seems happy
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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I stripped it right down and cleaned it all out. Regasket and just ran it on muffs...no bog....runs very smooth. I set float as well as pump rod. She seems happy
So this was after putting spring on pump back in?
 

Jakem

Ensign
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Apr 25, 2021
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Boat fired right up...idle good...warmed it up and left the dock...first take off got on plane easy...now really sluggish and won't again...only under load
 

Jakem

Ensign
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Apr 25, 2021
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Had carb apart .adjusted float and so on. The accelator pump doesn't shoot gas everytime I pump it. Also has bog. It's a new cup and spring on it. The check ball is in the well...at a loss here
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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49,546
either the pump cup is not sealing, or one of the two check valves has dirt in it.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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if buying new, I would look at a 600 cfm 4-barrel.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,654
this is the issue with "reman" carbs, keep in mind that no new Rochester carbs have been built since 1990 (except when Edelbrock made a copy of the Quadrajet for a while) so there aren't that many unmolested cores in good shape floating around. So with reman you may get parts of several different carbs, that may not work well together and the carb may not be set up to OEM specs. I was lucky in that my boat had an original un-molested Rochester Quadrajet so it wasn't hard to get it set up right, as the jets metering rods etc were all as original specs.
I agree with getting something new, but keep in mind that the price of Holley carbs had gone way up, a 4 bb you could have bought for $500 a few years ago could be as much as $900 now. The Edelbrock 1409 is another good option, Merc used a version of this carb made by Weber on their engines for years, both of them are updated versions of the old Carter 4bbl that was standard on many Mopar products in the 60s and 70s.
 
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