Restoring childhood boat. A 1972 Ranger. Help needed (pictures).

[gm280]

Yes, this was helpful. I do have one of those multitools. I'm planning to use it along with the sawsall once I get to that point. I also liked his video on building a cradle. I plan to try and build mine on the trailer since it's already got the two outer bunks supporting the boat. I am going to try and adapt what he did in that video. Thanks for the reference.

Yes artfan1, you can build your cradle on the trailer. In fact that really is a great idea because you can move it around to wherever you want to work on it at the time. Just add some side hull support(s) and move on. I know the type work you are in for, but I also know the great self accomplishment you will have after getting it well on its way as well. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions on here. We all have our expertise's (well except me) and will offer ideas and suggestions for you along the way... And you have to post pictures and updates too...:thumb:

 

[kcassells]

The mental image of another picture of you, your father and your son on the same boat after she is all done and ready put next to the first picture you posted is by itself worth all the work and efforts. That is a great project you got there and I can understand it is very personal. We are here to help, if you need any help just ask away

Good for you DeepBlue.....Well spoken words and I think Art son will be doing another rehab to this boat in 30 years. Pass it on or what do they say today?
Pay it forward...

 

[kcassells]

Maybe Zool will chime in at some point when he gets out of his cave or sheds like the softshell crab. lol just fiddlin.

 

[kcassells]

FYI..................WOG is Superior and use to be he had an odor/aura about him :noidea: but now he definitley has a reputation beyond reproach! All our guys, me the less with experience, have alot to give and help you move in the right ways to approach this cool boat!
The WOG Man..............he cant' fix it then alot of other guys will chine in.

 

[artfan1]

A week ago I sent an email to Ranger's customer service and told them about my project. I asked a lot of the same questions to them as I did here. I also asked them if they had any old diagrams or blueprints of the boat's design so that I could see how it was constructed. They replied and were nice enough to give me some information but I guess they don't have any drawings to share.

I am a little reluctant about posting this here because some of their advise is different than that given here and I don't want anyone to think I am second guessing their advise so PLEASE don't take it that way. I am still going to do things the way you all have advised me to here on this forum but I wanted to share what Ranger told me today as it might be of interest to some.

Here's what they told me.

... We have spoken with our Customer Service Department.

They advise that you leave the top on the hull. You can cut the boxes out and glass them back in.

The stringers are approximately 12-14in. wide. They run from the transom and go forward under the front deck. They are made out of 2x2 timbers and are glassed to the hull bottom. The flooring is 3/8in plywood with a fiberglass coating, it runs from the transom and forward under the front deck.

The center of the stringer area should be open, (no foam). The outboard sides can be foamed. Also, any open cavity that is not used can be foamed. Do this in a small area at a time to insure it does not cause swelling of the boat. It is best to support or suspend the boat as the stringers and floor are repaired to keep the original shape of the boat bottom.

So, I am still planning to cut the cap off after I finish the cradle. Maybe Ranger is just being cautious in telling me not to. I don't know. But everyone here on iBoats has been so helpful and encouraging that I will stay the course as advised here.

Deepblue, yes that photo you spoke of is one of my goals. It will be a nice bookend to the first one.

I'll post back with progress soon. Thanks.

 

[Teamster]

I'm not 100% on taking the top off,....

It almost looks like it was a "rolled gunnel" boat, If so I wouldn't want to cut off the top,....

 

[Woodonglass]

Can you post a pic of the rear of the boat standing about 10 ft away and looking down the starboard side side we can get a profile look at her and see just exactly how the gunwales look in perspective to the hull sides. Also do the same looking across the back of the transom. The factory folks might be shooting you straight, in that it might be better to cut everything out from the inside and NOT attempt to de-capitate her!!! I've been searching the net for a restoration of a 70-74 Ranger and No Luck so far!!!

 

[artfan1]

Can you post a pic of the rear of the boat standing about 10 ft away and looking down the starboard side side we can get a profile look at her and see just exactly how the gunwales look in perspective to the hull sides. Also do the same looking across the back of the transom. The factory folks might be shooting you straight, in that it might be better to cut everything out from the inside and NOT attempt to de-capitate her!!! I've been searching the net for a restoration of a 70-74 Ranger and No Luck so far!!!

Here you go. Let me know if I misunderstood the angles and point of view on these. I took several others and can take more if needed. Sorry they are not the best quality but it's been raining here and is pretty gloomy out right now. Thanks.

 

[Woodonglass]

One more with a bit of an angle across the back of the transom would be great!! But based on what I'm seeing, she CAN be decapitated. Also, that hull design should be quite stable during the restore and easily supported on the trailer with the bunks. Take LOTS of measurements now and during the demolition for reference on the "Go Back" Pics too!!! You won't believe how handy they'll be later on. I had a 72' Chrysler "Bass Buster" that was the exact same color. She was a Stick Steer boat and I loved it. Same hull design. Very stable boat and you could get her into some very tight fishing spots. I have those Ranger Seats in my current boat. I MIGHT consider letting you have them for this restoration since it's such a sentimental restoration. Where are you located?? You might want to sign up on the Members map at the top of the Forum!!!

I've been considering changing the seats in my boat anyway so it's not a big deal. We can discuss this transaction as you move forward with the restoration. If you haven't seen this yet it might be helpful...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

This too... View attachment MaterialsList.pdf

 

[gm280]

WOW a bunk trailer really serves this boat well. I like the transom lower design. I'm sure the trailer gets refurbished as well???? :noidea:

 

[artfan1]

How's this? Sorry if I still don't understand the right angle. I'll take as many images as you need me to. I included an additional closeup of the top of the transom. It shows a little bit of the construction that was covered up by the angled piece of aluminum I removed. You can see the hull, plywood transom and what appears to be either liner or fiberglass of some kind that's running under the cap. Not sure if this tells you anything.

As for the seats. Wow, not sure what to say other than I really appreciate the offer. I would be interested for sure in hearing what you had in mind there. I'm located in Illinois. Pretty much central. About half way between Bloomington and Champaign. I'll try to get myself on that map.

I will take a look at the post you suggested. However the image after "This too..." isn't showing up for me.

Thanks again!

 

[artfan1]

WOW a bunk trailer really serves this boat well. I like the transom lower design. I'm sure the trailer gets refurbished as well???? :noidea:

Yep. It's the original trailer that my Dad bought with the boat...or for the boat, at the time. Can't remember if he picked up the trailer first, then went to get the boat or if he picked them up all at the same time. I'll have to ask. I do remember him saying this trailer was made for this type of boat (or the boat was made for this type of trailer ). Yes the trailer will be restored too. I know the bunks on there need replaced. I plan to repaint the trailer. I have the spare tire and original wheels with hub caps but they are a little rusty.

 

[Woodonglass]

Pics are PERFECT. For SURE that CAP can come off. May/Probably will require some cutting away of glass tabbing on the inside/outside but it will come off. I Don't think the floor structure will be adhered to the stringers/bulkheads so it should all lift up and away. WARNING!!! It will be Quite heavy to you will need some helpers to lift her up and off the boat. 2x4's inserted across the beam fore and aft and in the middle will be required and then prolly 3 men to hoist her up and off the boat and then set her down on some saw horses. I'm betting 4-600lbs. I'm sending you a PM so be looking for it.

 

[artfan1]

Ok, thanks WOG. I'll watch for the PM. Once I get the support/cradle figured out, I will begin the cutoff. I just hope I do it right without destroying it. :facepalm:

Speaking of the cradle. While I work out how to attach it to the frame of the trailer (I think I have that part figured out actually), exactly where and how much should I support?
I figured I would put another bunk under the "Chine?" area above the flat trailer frame. That way I can support it with the trailer frame.
Then support along the ridge below the cap, on the hull. Does that sound right? How far towards the bow and how far back to the stern?

I marked this image in red where I was thinking to include support.

I can go all the way to the stern with a 2"x4" but the bow begins to curve in at about 10' from the stern. With that continuous curve, I'm not sure how to add support along there. If the straight part of the hull is held firm, is that sufficient?

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup support to the curve and you'll be good to go. I'm looking for a former members cradle for a similar build. He did an excellent job and it would be a good one to pattern from. If I find it I'll post it. PM is in your box.

 

[Woodonglass]

I found the link. I'd highly recommend you read thru this thread and see what this member did. His boat is very similar to your ranger and you will learn a lot from what he did on his.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat.../539054-1982-sylvan-bassboat-project?t=526064

 

[gm280]

artfan1, one thing I want to assure you of, there is basically no way you can cut things and destroy them. It is a fiberglass hull and therefore any Ah-Oh's can be fixed without issue. So don't worry about making a wrong cut. Everybody does cut and/or grind through their hulls when grinding the old rotted fiberglass out of the boat. It is all part of the rebuild effort. So relax a little and it will come out amazing...you'll see! :thumb:

 

[artfan1]

I found the link. I'd highly recommend you read thru this thread and see what this member did. His boat is very similar to your ranger and you will learn a lot from what he did on his.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat.../539054-1982-sylvan-bassboat-project?t=526064

Thanks WOG. I'm reading through it now. The cradle looks pretty much like what I had in mind so that will help.

Ok, back to the liner, compartments, cap issue. Apparently the entire liner is laminated into the inside of the boat. Ranger won't confirm if it was dropped in as one large unit or if it was glassed in, one section at a time but the bulkhead and sides are solid to the hull. The only reason the floor was no longer attached is because the wood rotted out from under it.

If I look at the backside of the fiberglass floor I removed, it has a thin film of plywood attached to it. The captain's seat pedestal, was epoxied flat to the plywood before it unlaminated. The pedestal up in the bow is rock solid. I can't move it at all.

So my question is this. If I remove the cap and find that the liner is epoxied to the hull, what would I do then? Would I cut the storage compartments out?
Would it hurt to do that as Ranger suggests anyway? Then, I would have a lot better access to the under side of the cap to cut all of the tabbing out. Just a thought.

 

[Woodonglass]

Here's the other alternative to removing the cap. I Might even recommend doing it this way since the cap is totally tabbed to the hull, I would probably cut the splash well at the gunwales about 6" in front and just remove it to gain access to the transom area and leave the rest of the cap intact. Repairing the gunwales is easy to do and you'll never see the patched area. Only problem is if you think you can save the gelcoat and buff it out then this is NOT an option. If you think you'll be regelcoating or Painting the boat then this IS a viable option. then you could cut away everything from the inside and gut the boat and rebuild it back. Would make things a bit easier for you.

 

[gm280]

I see he already has it pretty much gutted with everything removed. Great start... I can see this will be a very interesting and pleasing project for sure... :thumb: