Re: Restoration: 1988 Wellcraft 170 Classic 3.0l Mercruiser Alpha 1 gen 1
Drove to the nearest fiberglass supply store today...just so happens to only be 20 min away. You guys should check this place out online....they have really good prices. its called Merton's fiberglass supply or
www.mertons.com The only reason i bring this up, is because he has better prices on everything than any online distributer before shipping. now i know i picked stuff up in person so i didnt pay shipping. so i donno what shipping costs are but its worth checking out.
Fiberglass Material and Supplies Cost
7 yards 38" 1.5oz csm - 20.00
5 gal pale of poly laminating resin (catalyst included)- 121.00
1/2 lb cabosil - 11.00
1 lb milled fibers - 4.00
6 foam rollers and roller cage - 8.00
bubble buster roller - 8.50
5 paint tray liners - 2.00
total - 184.70 with tax
Wood
2 sheets 3/4" cdx underlay(no void ply) 75.00 with tax
Transom cost 259.70
I will have resin left over. i anticipate about 2.5 gal to wet out all the glass(including the one layer that will be used to adhere the 2 sheets of ply together as well as coat the plywood with resin.) and another 1 gal to make my own peanut butter (hull putty/ bedding compound) to bond the transom to the hull. The 2 sheets is enough to do my transom plus all my stringers. Minus 2 1X8x10's for the main stringers. so there is minimal waste.
The transom surface is ready for the new transom...i think.
I have one question as this pertains to the "ready" part. when i seperated the transom, there were 2 parts different pieces of glass that came undone. if you look in my previous post you can see in some of the pictures. i believe the 2 different pieces are. the actual outer transom shell(hull) and then a piece of CSM that was used to bond the original transom to the hull). at first the hole for the outdrive was 2 different thickness because the right side of the transom kept the CSM but the left side did not, leaving it attached to the hull. i ground most of it off as it was a really bad mechanical bond(wasnt wet out enough when installed leaving dried fibers with no resin or not enough resin)
Heres my question, most of the CSM that remains attached to the outer shell is in good condition after i grinded the crappy parts off. as long as the area where the transom shield and gimbal housing mount are the same thickness does it matter if i leave the CSM off to the side when i go to bond the new transom? or should i grind it all down to the same thickness? my only concern is, it is very hard to tell when i reach the "outer skin" where the csm was put on good.
you can see what im talkin about in these 2 pictures. i took a closer up so you can see it better. all the parts that appear white, where grinded off today, and the area around the outdrive hole is all the same thickness now... just wondering what i should do with the rest of the transom. esp if im mounting it with PB.