Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

jakedaawg

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A four pole ignition key switch will be fine. Just leave the first pole empty. You can always wire a radio or depth sounder to it.
 

archbuilder

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Thanks Jake, I will give that a whirl.

I had some time on the trailer this evening. I attached 1/2" conduit to the frame rails. It starts up by the removable tongue plate, runs over to the frame rail and starts to head back. It is discontinuous about 16" back. I will drill a hole through the frame rail at that point and wire up the front maker light. From there it heads all the way back, where I will have another through the rail hole for the rear marker and tail light.





I also bought some piano wire and taped it to the hose for the Eastwood frame rail coating. Otherwise it seems to curl up, I'm using 1/2" holes.





Its hard to see, but I found some plastic plugs to fill the hole after I coat the inside.



I also bought some rubber grommets. But the flange of the channel is really to thick for them, so I need to go up to a larger size.



I drilled all of the holes for the frame coating, but about halfway through my 1/2" bit broke off part of the tip. (drilled, 3/6" then 3/8, then 1/2") So everything is drilled to 3/8", I'll pick up another 1/2" bit tonight.
 

Baylinerchuck

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Wow, conduit.....you're really taking this to the next level......and I thought I was a bit particular with trailer wiring. You got me beat by a few miles, lol.
 

Pusher

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"I also bought some rubber grommets. But the flange of the channel is really to thick for them, so I need to go up to a larger size. "

I did the same thing this fall. Guess I should add it to the list before I forget and regret.

I have to ask... Is that bolt holding the conduit on painted brown?
 

gm280

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Arch, did you think about doing little spot weld for the conduit to the frame? It will weld that way. Just an idea. but you should have any electrical problems later on with such protection.
 

archbuilder

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Chuck I did this on my tandem flatbed a few years ago. The wiring would always hang down and get caught on stuff. Since I added the conduit, zero problems.

GM I tack welded the conduit on my tandem, and was thinking of doing the same on this one. I decided I would rather put it together, pull all the parts and paint them individuality and put them back together later. That way everything has a nice coat of paint on it.

Go get the grommet Pusher, I have found that putting things off is expensive! Or a pain or both! What you are seeing is a Tek self-tapping screw, It is actually more olive green than brown. It has an non-corrosion coating on it, I'm guessing an epoxy.

I spent tonight drilling more holes. Its amazing how many it takes to mount all this stuff. I started out by finishing up the access holes for the frame coating. Then I drilled 40 3/8" holes for mounting the steps, bunks, and guide rails. I still need to drill the adjustable bunk brackets, I took them off for sandblasting. I also need to drill the holes for the trailer wiring, but need to pick up the bigger grommets so I know what size to drill. I want to also drill the mounting holes for the lights. Basically I want to have it ready to bolt together once I have it painted. More time now, but it saves later and all the holes get paint on them.
 

archbuilder

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The parts fairy showed up today. REALLY expensive fuel pump, oil pressure sending unit and water temp sending unit. Figured I should buy them since I have the new gauges. I also picked up a label maker for the wiring. The label tape is weather resistant, but most of what I will label will be under the dash anyway.
 

gm280

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Arch, when I label wires I usually print out the label for the wire and then cut it out and wrap it around the wire. And then I use clear heat shrink over that to seal them there forever. Just an idea if you need something else to work.

Nice parts haul.
 

archbuilder

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Hmmm hadn't thought about that GM, might have to try that. I drilled all of the holes for the wiring tonight, and all of the mounting holes for the lights. I think the only holes I have left are the drain holes in the frame and the bunk mounting holes in the adjustable bunk brackets. I took them off when I had it sandblasted.
 

Baylinerchuck

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Yeah that fuel pump is crazy expensive. Considering the automobile equivalent is around $30.00 at most for a mechanical pump. I opted to take mine apart and clean it, and replace filter. Insane that they don't offer a diaphragm rebuild kit for those, atleast I couldn't find one.
 

archbuilder

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I checked the numbers on mine, it was an automotive.....I'd rather spend a few bucks and not blow up! But it is crazy what "marine" parts cost.
 

archbuilder

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I finally feel like I got something done today. I drilled the last 30 or so holes, I amazed at how many holes this thing has in it! After that I got out the Milwaukee MOG, mother of all grinders. If you want to go beast mode, this is the girl. I ground down all the top side welds with her, then did the detail work with the baby 4-1/2".......If you think you are tough, your wrong, she is tougher, lol its like a bag of concrete with a spinning wheel attached to the end of it!



So I have about 90% of the grinding done, touched up some of it with the air grinder. After that I hung paper under the frame rails and sprayed 2 coats of the eastwood internal frame coating. Worked very nicely, the piano wire worked great for guiding it down the frame rails. It also did what I wanted, which was to run out between the boxing plate and the channel on the bottom side. Now i at least have a coating on the bare steel of the boxing plate at the bottom.







After that I put bondo on about 90% of what needs mud on it. The objective is really to clean up the welds and eliminate places for rust to start. And it will also look nice!




Looks like photobucket is doing weird stuff to pics again.....
 
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Tnstratofam

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I bet you're one tired puppy with some really tired arms after all that work. Fuggly is gonna have one sweet and stout ride when you're done Arch.
 

sphelps

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Wow seems like the frame coating stuff really covered the inside pretty good .. How many cans did it take ?
With the environment down here it might be a good idea on my trailers .. But if you spray over existing rust will it keep rusting ?
 

gm280

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Okay Arch, When is the drop test scheduled? I think you could drop that trailer off a clip and it would even bother it. :thumb:
 

archbuilder

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Tnst I did have rubber arm disease lol!

Sam it says it converts and encapsulates it. I did seem to work well, and it has zinc in it to inhibit future rust. Kind of belts and suspenders for this trailer, but why not. It took 4 cans. It is kind of pricey, but worth it if it works.
 

archbuilder

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I spent a couple hours yesterday sanding, nothing to exciting.....I still have a lot of sanding to go, plus put more bondo in a few areas. I think it should turn out pretty nice looking. Boxing the channels makes it look much better already.
 
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