Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

[sphelps]

Decals ?
Finally something I can help with .
Arch just pull the backing off the decal eyeball it straight then apply it to the motor ..
I hope this helped ..

 

[froggy1150]

If you need controlled pinpoint heat....
tig with tungsten for stainless . Would have to turn way down but you would have the ability to do what you need. Practice on something first. To find the sweet temp...... it's an idea. And the hammer style impact driver

 

[mickyryan]

Well guess what genius remembered that you have to use thread sealant, not thread lubricant on the head bolts? :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm: I knew that, don't ask me........I knew that!
.

you are not alone there, i even had the sealant sitting right next to lubricant on a 3.0 and yep guess what i did , lol , it happens you doing great! this weekend i learned how to put a outdrive back on , 4 times ... first i had the shifter pin backwards, next i forgot the o'ring on the water jacket 3rd time i was all set and then remembered i forgot to remember not to forget to grease the new u joints.....it happens it wasn't my day but i did hit the water on monday before storms hit and made it worth it i think i was chevs stand up routine in text messages this weekend lol

 

[mickyryan]

ok you might laugh but i had this problem once and instead of ruining my paint i took a soldering iron put it on head of bolt and just heated the bolt up till it smoked the locktite
and bam it was out , no damage.

 

[archbuilder]

Thanks for all the ideas. GA one of the thread I read he used a couple sockets to swap the motor mounts just like you describe. Sound like it was a bit of a struggle. But maybe mine won't be as bad, sounds like he had some corrosion. I am a bit leery of pounding on cast iron with an impact driver, but that maybe what it takes. As for the stickers, I just like letting the paint cure as long as possible. I had an issue one time with some bubbling because the paint wasn't 100% cured. I think this would be fine now, but I figure I will just wait till later as bad as I hate to!

The one thing I need is time to work on it. I don't think that is going to happen this week, I have a lot of other chores on the agenda.

Froggy, thanks for the idea, but I only have a MIG and a Stick, no TIG.

Micky, the soldering iron might work, I may have to dig mine out and give it a try. The other thing I thought about was heating the hell out of the end of a bolt with the torch and putting it on the plug to heat it up. Surely something along those lines will work.

 

[archbuilder]

I had a little bit of time tonight and tried heating up a bolt to red hot and putting it on the plug but no luck. I also tried the soldering iron but no dice. May have to resort to the impact. I also realized that it is between two lifter bores, so I don't want to boil out my assembly lube on them..........:mad-new: Very frustrating....... two steps forward and a couple back!

 

[Pcolafisher]

Arch, Why can’t you mig weld a nut to the plug (weld inside the nut) and use a socket to immediately remove it?
Cheers

 

[archbuilder]

The more I am looking at this I am thinking the smart thing to do might be to pull the valve and side cover, unlash the rocker on either side of it, remove the lifters and push rod on either side. Then heat it directly, hope to hell it comes out and then reverse the disassembly. Then try to get the paint touched up. I just went back down there to see if it looked like it was staked, but it just looks like it is screwed in. They had to have locktited it. I looked it up and locktite red needs 500 degrees before it will loose its bond.

 

[GA_Boater]

You still have the thermo cover to paint, so it's a good excuse to cook the plug after push rodectomy and lifterectomy.

It may be a good idea to run through a few heat cycles to finish cooking off the paint outgassing before doing decals. We understand all about your setbacks, so no hurry, Arch.

 

[archbuilder]

I am heading to the lake Friday, so not a lot of time for the engine this week with everything else. It is frustrating, all I want to do is install a sending unit! But I don't want to do anything dumb. If it gets to the point of drilling it out it will mean a lot of work since I would be putting chips strait into the main oil distribution passage....don't even want to think about that! More or less take it all apart and clean, then put it back together!

Well I am still waiting on the pipe plug and motor mount parts. I would like to work on it this weekend, but I am sure my grass is about a 1' tall at the lake by now. So I will mow grass and sit on the deck and make motor sounds lol! Might do me some good to step back for a weekend. It will get there!

 

[archbuilder]

I was so frustrated with the plug I put off a few chores and went back to the shop......took out my frustrations on the rear engine mounts.

I feel better now lol! At least I made some progress. By the way looking at the instructions with the kit, it appears there were some fiber washers that were totally gone. Might make realignment more interesting, but looks like the engine was sitting a bit too low without the fiber washers. So probably one of my better ideas! I'll deal with the front later. They did put up a little bit of a fight but not too bad.

 

[GA_Boater]

I said TWO sockets! Is the size you needed with my One Man Bleeder and your Plastigage?

One was probably easier to line up, so :thumb::thumb:

Is the rubber looking shabby? There is also a coil spring looking thing they call double-wound lock washer. Didn't the kit have a fiber washer and the springy thing?

 

[archbuilder]

The rubber wasn't that bad, but wouldn't hurt to replace it. The bottom of the new bushings is knurled, it says to toss the double wound lockwasher. The knurling takes the place of it. I didn't have those anyway, so maybe another reason to do this lol!

Correction the fiber washer doesn't impact the engine height, but i am sure will help with vibration and keeping the engine where it needs to be.

 

[froggy1150]

Do you know that they used red loctite. Could you call to see how they installed?

 

[archbuilder]

I need to do that but I cant see what else would make this thing so hard to get out. I put a lot of force on it, won't budge and it isn't staked. It is just a tapered pipe plug, shouldn't be that hard to get out!

 

[briangcc]

OK stupid question #1....are you sure the plug isn't a left handed thread?

And stupid question #2...assuming its a standard right hand thread, why not get a left hand threaded bolt, drill & tap it (without going through it) and torque on the bolt a bit to pull the plug?

 

[archbuilder]

The other block and the oil pump sending unit are right hand threaded, so I am assuming the block is the same. I will look to see if I can see, you never know. Thanks for the idea.

Drilling and tapping might be an option, but I don't really know how far I can go in with out drilling through. I am going to leave the drilling as the last option. If I drill through there is a good chance I will get shavings in the main oil passage and probably the #7 main, The passage for it is directly across from the sending unit and almost at the bottom of the main passage.

 

[archbuilder]

I have a bit of time on the engine tonight. I picked up the hardware for the old "AWOL part" and put it on hand tight. I have some left over paint and want to hit it and a few other items I missed.

I also had a crushed box from McMaster Carr in the driveway. Fortunately brass plugs are hard to crush, at least with the tires on a UPS truck. I installed it in the head and permanently installed the intake (I hope). I put on the water pump pulley GA, and you can sleep now it lines up lol! I did check!


After that I pulled out the front engine mount bushing, which didn't look so hot. Still waiting on parts to put that back together.

Which brings us back to the new "offending component"....We should have an Iboats award for that every year lol! "Offending component of the year" I'll build a nice traveling trophy with the plug mounted to it

I called the machine shop...."yeah let me check on that they are on break, I'll call you back." Still waiting.....Anyhow, I stared it down for a while tonight. I am going to let it tremble in fear while i head to the lake this weekend.......


I just told it I would deal with it when I got back.

It does appear to be a right hand thread by the way. So I am going to relax and let it sweat it out

 

[archbuilder]

Ok stepping back is always a good thing. I think I have two plans of attack, let me know what you guys think.

1. first step for either option, pull the lifters on either side. A bit of a pain but really only an hour or two of work. I want to get them out of harms way or at least heat.
   1. First option heat it up and use an impact driver. I am more comfortable with this after looking at the other block tonight. It is reasonably hefty....but I still hate smacking cast iron.
   2. Option two came to me after an adult beverage. Not sure why I didn't think of this before. Put a 3/8 or 5/16 nut over it and weld the ever......living.....bleep out of it with the MIG through the middle of the nut. Then apply ample torque to it while it is hot. I am leaning this way since I for sure should be able to give it the come out or twist off torque with a nut welded on it. And it just sounds like good punishment for the offending component. I think I am getting an evil side lol!

Maybe we should do a poll....I'll see if I can set that up......

 

[archbuilder]

Hmmm looks like I cant do a poll inside a thread, well just let me know what you guys think.