Thanks for the info Brian.
Well today I finally got back to Fuggly again. My dad helped me bleed the hydraulics.
Pro Tip 1: You will be covered in oil, just forget staying clean.
Pro Tip 2: If you replace the high pressure line that comes from your pump, tighten the fitting where it goes into the pump. otherwise it will puke in your bilge :facepalm:.......again.....
Pro Tip 3: cover the port on your ram when pumping oil through it to bleed out the air........It WILL shoot oil 20' to 25' across the shop if you don't......:embarassed::mad-new:
You will notice there were a lot of pro tips involved this morning! After we got it done I am happy to say that it looks like things are functioning correctly now. I didn't see any leaks, but need to check closer for any small ones, the drive goes up an down and the slave for the trim ram seems to move back and forth correctly. There is a bleeding procedure for the slave cylinder, I sort of went through it but it seems to have mostly self-bled. I was very happy to see that things seemed to work correctly, I changed out a lot of parts and I can see how it would be easy to screw up something simple with all the pieces. We pretty much have a brand new 1970 hydraulic system! Now to start collecting pump motor parts to put on the shelf just in case!
I need to put on the new trim sending unit...... I hope that fixes the issue with the gauge not working correctly.
Speaking of gauges not working correctly, the tach was reading all wonky. I figured it was the pertronix electronic ignition throwing it off. I looked on their website and sure enough that looks like the problem. I need to install a 10K 1/2 watt resister inline on the wire from the coil to the tach. Does anyone have any recommendations on where to get one? I also noticed that there are some options of material types that I can select from. I know zero about resisters so any input would be helpful!
