Popular Mechanics 1962 PM38 Build [SPLASHED 2017]

[pekstrom]

She looks really good!!

Thank you!

 

[pekstrom]

pek, I have to admit, it looks really nice. And the primer brings it all together now. Are you sanding between the primer? And if so, what grit paper? I think it will look really nice all finished out. Good build.

Thank you! I think I should be sanding lightly between the coats. I have 120 grit papers around but I'm not sure if that's still too rough or if I should use a finer grit paper?

 

[pekstrom]

Thank you! I think I should be sanding lightly between the coats. I have 120 grit papers around but I'm not sure if that's still too rough or if I should use a finer grit paper?

Oh, I actually have some 220 grit paper here as well. Would that be a better choice than 120 to go in between coats?

 

[jbcurt00]

All you want to do is knock off the paint nubs between coats. If you have any 3M scotch brite pads, I'd use them. Easy to clean and much finer then 220g paper.

 

[archbuilder]

Nice looking work! I'm not sure on rusto, but I use 320 on my last coat for automotive paint.

 

[gm280]

I agree with Arch. I usually use 320 or even 400. But it really is not much different. You just want to smooth the surface and make it look uniform for the next coat. I would go with at least 320 or 400 before shooting the paint though. But again that is just my opinion and others will have theirs as well. And if you are really looking for a really nice final finish, I would block sand the last primer coat as well using a guide coat to go by. JMHO

 

[pekstrom]

Thanks for everyone's advice. I've put some 320 grit sandpaper on my shopping list. I'm liking this Rustoleum primer. It seems to cover very well. I've started looking into the top coat for the bottom, if that makes sense... I may have to find a TSC store around here and get me some of that Majic paint and hardener.

 

[Ned L]

Not suggesting you do anything different,.....

Wow,... I use 120 to 150 grit for final between coat sanding on paint,... and 150 to 220 for varnish.

 

[pekstrom]

Not suggesting you do anything different,.....

Wow,... I use 120 to 150 grit for final between coat sanding on paint,... and 150 to 220 for varnish.

Interesting you should mention that... I did give my 220 a try earlier today and it seemed ok if I sanded very lightly. But sandpaper isn't all that expensive and I figured 320 was suggested so I'll give it a try.

 

[archbuilder]

pek. I usually don't go to 320 till sanding the last primer. I progressively get finer with the coats. I don't get near that fine on things like varnish or lacquer as Ned pointed out. If you don't go to at least 320 with automotive paint, the sanding scratches show really badly. Not sure on rusto or the primer your using.

 

[sphelps]

You don't want it too slick .. The paint needs something to grab onto .... I think it was nurseman maybe that had trouble with adhesion and I think the consensus was too fine a grit before final coat ...
My thoughts are the same as jbc .... Scotch bright pads to knock the nubs off ... Maybe use water with it ..
But most others here have forgotten more about paint than I know about it .. :noidea:

 

[pekstrom]

Ok, all of this makes sense. I do want to make sure the paint has something to grip to, so I think I'll go with what I have for now. I have some 120 and some 220 grit. I'm using the Rustoleum Clean Metal primer that Woodonglass had suggested. It seems to cover well and also seems to dry smooth. It does have a strong smell, so it's a good thing I'm working in the garage. I'm thinking of giving that roll'n'roll method a try for the bottom paint next. So I'll be shopping around for some enamel and hardener. I have a TSC store not too far from the house so I guess I'll head over there and look at their Majic paint.

 

[Woodonglass]

Here's what I did and I've had NO adhesion issues. Sanded final primer with 220, then wiped down with Mineral Spirits. Shot first coat of color and then use "Wet Water" (water with a bit of dish soap in it) and "Sanded" with Green 3M pad. Like SP said. Just to knock down the nubs. Wiped down again with MS and shot next coat. I think you'll like how Glossy the Paint is.

 

[pekstrom]

Here's what I did and I've had NO adhesion issues. Sanded final primer with 220, then wiped down with Mineral Spirits. Shot first coat of color and then use "Wet Water" (water with a bit of dish soap in it) and "Sanded" with Green 3M pad. Like SP said. Just to knock down the nubs. Wiped down again with MS and shot next coat. I think you'll like how Glossy the Paint is.

Hi Wood, ok, sounds good. I will keep this in mind when I get to the color coats. I don't have any spray equipment so I am going to give the roll'n'roll method a try. If I may ask some specifics, is this the paint you are suggesting in that post you have linked in your signature? I don't know too much about this stuff so I figure it is better to ask before I buy the wrong thing. :lol:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...enamel-oil-base-gloss-1-qt-white-103095699--1

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup that's the stuff!!! Remember...Thin it first then add the hardener. Once the hardener is mixed, wait 10 mins and mix again. Do this 3 times. After 30 mins of "Cooking" Time you have 8hrs of aplication time. After that the paint is NO GOOD and you mix another batch. I did the first coat in the morning and the second 8 hrs later in the evening. Worked out great for me.The key to roll n' roll is to go back over the paint with a damp roller very lightly. (The weight of the roller is all that's needed. Do about 5-10 sq. ft. at a time. If you HEAR a sticky tacky sound you're DONE!!!

 

[pekstrom]

Yup that's the stuff!!! Remember...Thin it first then add the hardener. Once the hardener is mixed, wait 10 mins and mix again. Do this 3 times. After 30 mins of "Cooking" Time you have 8hrs of aplication time. After that the paint is NO GOOD and you mix another batch. I did the first coat in the morning and the second 8 hrs later in the evening. Worked out great for me.The key to roll n' roll is to go back over the paint with a damp roller very lightly. (The weight of the roller is all that's needed. Do about 5-10 sq. ft. at a time. If you HEAR a sticky tacky sound you're DONE!!!

Ok great! I have made myself a little shopping list for when I visit the Tractor Supply Company store near me. :lol: I do have to say I like how well this Rustoleum clean metal primer covers the boat, not to mention the price! I have just put a second coat on and it is nice and white now. Looks great. Would it hurt anything if I put a 3rd coat on?

 

[Woodonglass]

Won't hurt but...Wait till your final 100% for sure sanding is done. If you don't sand thru the primer layers then there really is no need for more coats. I put and extra coat of Paint on instead.

 

[pekstrom]

Won't hurt but...Wait till your final 100% for sure sanding is done. If you don't sand thru the primer layers then there really is no need for more coats. I put and extra coat of Paint on instead.

Well, turns out I'll need another coat or two. As I laid the primer down I noticed quite a few indentations and pin holes in the surface. So I decided to patch as many of those as I could with the green stuff. Now that I am sanding those areas I am going through the primer in several places. So I'll need to cover it up again. But as I am sanding it is now getting nice and smooth so that's good. Unfortunately the weather is turning colder again (I guess I should expect it since it is January after all) so I'll have to wait a while before I can prime it again.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah I understand about the primer showing a lot of minor flaws. That's one of it's jobs!!! Just remember This isn't gunna be a show boat and only YOU will see and know about most of the cosmetic minor blemishes. Even though I say this, I pretty much FUSSED Way to much on my hull too!!!!. After the first splash I realized I spent WAY to much time on it. Just an Old Dumb Okies opinion!!!!

 

[pekstrom]

Yeah I understand about the primer showing a lot of minor flaws. That's one of it's jobs!!! Just remember This isn't gunna be a show boat and only YOU will see and know about most of the cosmetic minor blemishes. Even though I say this, I pretty much FUSSED Way to much on my hull too!!!!. After the first splash I realized I spent WAY to much time on it. Just an Old Dumb Okies opinion!!!!

Yeah, that is very true. I need to just go with it at this point I think... Although some of the blemishes were pretty obvious. :lol: I have to say though, I'm pretty happy with how it's turning out now. It needs some more sanding and then I think it should be ready. I still need to get the tractor paint and supplies but with the temps dipping down a bit I'll have to wait.