Popular Mechanics 1962 PM38 Build [SPLASHED 2017]

pekstrom

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Dec 31, 2015
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What about snapping a chalk line down the center of the hull? You can find the center of the keelson at the transom and bow, then snap a line between them to use as a reference for the skid rail locations? I agree, they have to do something for stability/alignment of the boat in the water, and they should be straight with the keelson. They are also cut at a 13 degree angle .......... so in my mind that would add to stability.

That's not a bad idea. In the back by the transom you can easily find the middle, and if you snap a line from that point through the bow you should get a straight line over the keelson. I like that. I will give that a try before drilling holes through the battens and bottom. Thanks for the suggestion. :)
 

Ned L

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Rather than a chalkline I would recommend a batten. A chalkline will roll on a curved surface and not indicate where you want (it will take the shortest route, just like a "great circle route" on a globe.) A batten will run in a straight line. However,... You have to remember to keep the bottom of the batten parallel with the floor "left-right" to keep it from curving toward the centerline. (Hmmm,.... Not sure if that makes sense. If you lay a batten flat on the bottom and bend the front down I think you will see what I mean.)
 

Woodonglass

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I agree with Ned...a Big carpenter square to square it off the stern and then Bend it down at the bow.
 

pekstrom

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Dec 31, 2015
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Ok, so in hindsight, I should have outsourced the sanding part... I guess I underestimated the amount of sanding this thing needs. :eek:
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Line laser would make it a piece a cake ... If the hull is sitting perfectly level port to starboard you could pull a string down the center and get a few marks with a plumb bob then connect the dots ... Many ways to skin a cat I guess ..
Going back and looking at the hull bottom . As flat as it is I think you could snap a chalk line if your careful ... Pull it good and tight and lift the line up good and plumb with the center when ya let go ...
 
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pekstrom

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Ok, I was hoping to be able to finish the starboard side today as far as the big sanding job goes. I'm also planning to use the putty to fill in the weave in the bow section since it doesn't run or sag on those sloping sections. I'll use the regular epoxy on the flat bottom section. Well, that's the plan. We'll see how it works out.

I need to fill in several areas still on the starboard side or I'll end up with a lot of indentations when I paint it. Not good. So, more filler and more sanding...

I did add the weave panels in between the strips on the port side. And since I didn't use any of the white stuff on that side I'm hoping it will be easier that the starboard side. But time will tell. I also added some weave and epoxy back by the transom. So it is getting there, albeit slowly... :)
 

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pekstrom

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Dec 31, 2015
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Hmm, so 2 pints of that green stuff wasn't quite enough. Time to get 2 more pints. I need more filler for the fiber on the port side, and also to finish the bow. And then I also plan to use it on the decking. I did add a second layer of epoxy on the bottom but I'll probably need a 3rd layer before I can call it done.
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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I have to agree, boat building does eat up supplies. So when you do buy supplies, don't let them sit too close to the boat. Try to keep them away from the boat and they will last a little longer. I always try to buy more then I THINK I will need. And most of the time, I still need more. :eek:
 

pekstrom

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Dec 31, 2015
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I have to agree, boat building does eat up supplies. So when you do buy supplies, don't let them sit too close to the boat. Try to keep them away from the boat and they will last a little longer. I always try to buy more then I THINK I will need. And most of the time, I still need more. :eek:

Yeah, I should have done the same. I should have known 2 pints wouldn't be enough. :) Interestingly, I still have epoxy left so I may not need more of that. Although I probably jinxed myself now. :facepalm:
 

gm280

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Yeah, I should have done the same. I should have known 2 pints wouldn't be enough. :) Interestingly, I still have epoxy left so I may not need more of that. Although I probably jinxed myself now. :facepalm:

I always can guess correctly how much the job will take after I finish it. :stupid:
 

pekstrom

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Dec 31, 2015
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I'm pondering what paint I will need once I am ready to start painting. I'm thinking of using an epoxy primer on the outside (I already primed the inside) and then cover that with some marine top-side paint. I have seen some by Interlux and a few other brands that should work nicely. But for the bottom I honestly have no idea what to use. Having grown up with bigger boats that stayed in the water the entire boating season, I am used to anti-fouling paints on the bottom. But since this one won't be in the water unless I am out riding in it, it seems a bit overkill to use that type of paint. I believe this was pointed out once earlier in this thread. So now I am wondering, what type of paint should I be using on the bottom? What suggestions do y'all have?
 

gsxrdan

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Aug 28, 2016
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I have to agree, boat building does eat up supplies. So when you do buy supplies, don't let them sit too close to the boat. Try to keep them away from the boat and they will last a little longer. I always try to buy more then I THINK I will need. And most of the time, I still need more. :eek:


I kept all my supplies well away from my boat, but it somehow managed to eat them all anyway :noidea: (I know it was my boat cause its put on heaps of weight...)
 

Woodonglass

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I'm a C.O.B. sooo I use Rustoleum with a Hardener. It has been used by quite a few of out members with really good results. The last link in my signature line below has all the details. It provides a very High Gloss and durable finish for about 1/3rd the cost of the Name Brand Car and Boat Paints.
 

pekstrom

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Dec 31, 2015
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490
I'm a C.O.B. sooo I use Rustoleum with a Hardener. It has been used by quite a few of out members with really good results. The last link in my signature line below has all the details. It provides a very High Gloss and durable finish for about 1/3rd the cost of the Name Brand Car and Boat Paints.

Cheap is good! :) I did look at that info once before. I'll have to take another look. You say you use that below the waterline?
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Yep, been on for 4 years now and no issues. My boat is a "Trailer Queen" so she's only on the water when I'm in it!!
 
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