Plywood floor replacement...Questions

[Jermy-Jinky]

Dude...they are just looking out for your safety and the safety of anyone who gets aboard your boat.
I have a very similar project. Everyone in this thread has commented on it and given me advice. That I plan on implementing. I've placed my project on a bit of a hold while I gather materials and educate myself on doing things properly. Trust me, I want my boat on the water as bad, if not worse than you do yours. BUT, I'm planning on using it with people that I love...so safety is my utmost concern...fun boat times will come later. I promise you, a boating accident, a drowning, a water related incident or injury, is ZERO FUN. God forbid a death because of it. (I was a firefighter/EMT for 10 years and a water rescue technician for 5...I've seen what can happen when things go bad.) As excited as I am to get on the water, I'm calming it down to really focus on making my boat safe. When things go bad on the water....they go really bad.

I know it's hard to listen to what they are telling you. But they aren't trying to kill your buzz...they're trying to keep you safe. You came asking for advice. They are giving you advice. VERY GOOD advice at that. AND IT"S FREE! The answer to our questions is not always what we want to hear. Just dial it back a bit.

 

[jonny rotten]

So let me reiterate
I pulled off a piece of 31 year old 1/2 inch plywood that was in bad shape for probably years but I didn't know until it got soft.....and enjoyed the boat for the last 11 years with friends and family.
I replace the ONE sheet of bad 1/2 inch plywood deck with 3/4 inch plywood. Adding PT supports weighing nothing to strengthen things up and fiberglass all seams for strength and water tightness.....10 times stronger than it was
Upon pulling off the plywood the stringers were glassed to the hull in what looked like 1/8 thick solid as a rock fiberglass in like new condition after 31 years.
I sealed everything the way they've been sealing wood forever while adding support .....but somehow I'm putting my friends and family in danger with my process
I can't disagree more.

 

[KJM]

Hey, just looking at the pictures of your fiberglass. Not bad for first try, its definitely a learning process. Those white bands where the glass overlaps are white because of trapped tiny air bubbles in there, I know, believe me I know! I can't remember how many times I went in for the night with everything lookin good only to check the next morning to find air where there wasn't any the night before! Considering its a floor and not the hull or transom, you will probably get away with it. I found after a lot of less then perfect jobs that a brush works better then a roller, at least for me. I was using a paint roller and the rolling motion was creating a foam edge along the front of the roller as I worked. I think it was creating microbubbles in the resin/ glass the came together after I left to become more obvious. Also cover the wood with resin before you put the glass on because the wood will suck some resin out of your glass if its dry. I use a cheap brush now and "push" the resin into the glass after wetting out the glass first. I finding I'm getting much better results. Good luck!

 

[KJM]

So let me reiterate
I pulled off a piece of 31 year old 1/2 inch plywood that was in bad shape for probably years but I didn't know until it got soft.....and enjoyed the boat for the last 11 years with friends and family.
I replace the ONE sheet of bad 1/2 inch plywood deck with 3/4 inch plywood. Adding PT supports weighing nothing to strengthen things up and fiberglass all seams for strength and water tightness.....10 times stronger than it was
Upon pulling off the plywood the stringers were glassed to the hull in what looked like 1/8 thick solid as a rock fiberglass in like new condition after 31 years.
I sealed everything the way they've been sealing wood forever while adding support .....but somehow I'm putting my friends and family in danger with my process
I can't disagree more.

As its the floor and not the parts keeping the water out, I'd say you will be fine for what you want.

 

[jonny rotten]

Hey, just looking at the pictures of your fiberglass. Not bad for first try, its definitely a learning process. Those white bands where the glass overlaps are white because of trapped tiny air bubbles in there, I know, believe me I know! I can't remember how many times I went in for the night with everything lookin good only to check the next morning to find air where there wasn't any the night before! Considering its a floor and not the hull or transom, you will probably get away with it. I found after a lot of less then perfect jobs that a brush works better then a roller, at least for me. I was using a paint roller and the rolling motion was creating a foam edge along the front of the roller as I worked. I think it was creating microbubbles in the resin/ glass the came together after I left to become more obvious. Also cover the wood with resin before you put the glass on because the wood will suck some resin out of your glass if its dry. I use a cheap brush now and "push" the resin into the glass after wetting out the glass first. I finding I'm getting much better results. Good luck!

Thanks, I brushed the resin on the wood first then laid the 1708, then brushed on more resin, then rolled it with a fiberglass roller....in a rapid pace because the first patch turned to a brick in the bucket LOL. I think I did a pretty good job for the first time. It was solid as a rock and all edges were bonded tight the next morning. I applied a spar varnish finish coat today with another coat tomorrow

 

[KJM]

Yeah, its only where the pieces overlap. that stuff soaks up a lot of resin.

 

[KJM]

I'm waiting on new back to back seats for my boat too. Do you think lag bolts are needed? I was only planning on using short screws like 1-2 inches with a piece of plywood between the base and the floor, glassed in. The screws are only keeping the seats from sliding around, not taking any weight. The old BTB seats were just screwed to the floor and hed fine until the rot set in.

 

[jonny rotten]

I'm waiting on new back to back seats for my boat too. Do you think lag bolts are needed? I was only planning on using short screws like 1-2 inches with a piece of plywood between the base and the floor, glassed in. The screws are only keeping the seats from sliding around, not taking any weight. The old BTB seats were just screwed to the floor and hed fine until the rot set in.

I'm going to use galvanized lag bolts like what holds on a deck. They have meaty threads, With the wood under the deck I'll have a solid 1 1/2 wood to secure the seats from rocking and abuse. I can't imagine I'll have any issues for a long time

 

[jbcurt00]

It's not a rebuild.....it's a floor replacement. With ONE sheet of plywood.....what are you not understanding about that. I'M REPLACING ONE SHEET OF PLYWOOD WITH SOLID STRINGERS.....I thought I would document my project and ask questions along the way.. Your obviously one of those people talk down everything....I feel very comfortable in my process....hard to believe your a moderator.....for those who might find this thread later

Avoid using foul language, if you cant argue your point w out cursing, that reflects poorly on you.

Being a moderator doesnt form my opinion, that would be the same w out the mod title.

This is your only warning @language.

Boat and boat resto safely.

 

[tpenfield]

tagging along . . . I haven't read all the comments, but have a general idea of what is going on.

 

[TankerDan]

If you hope to get about 5 years out of it I'm wondering what then. If you plan to do a total rebuild then why not now? Unless your planning to sell a half rotten boat to someone else

 

[jonny rotten]

If you hope to get about 5 years out of it I'm wondering what then. If you plan to do a total rebuild then why not now? Unless your planning to sell a half rotten boat to someone else

No....As I said I plan on donating it to the fire dept. They practice on old donated boats. Not that selling old half rotten boats seems to be stopping anyone. The market is flooded with them. I'm choosing not to do that as I got my money out of it

Being that I removed the floor, inspected the stringers, removed the wet foam and everything is bone dry and not rotten now, With a new sealed floor I'm guessing the boat will be 100% rot free in 5 years and the reason for getting rid of it will be mechanical.....or it will just keep going which would be nice