Plywood floor replacement...Questions

[jonny rotten]

I'm installing new back to back seats. The original setup had pieces of wood attached to the the bottom of the plywood in the area of the seats to give the lag screws more meat to screw into. It seems like those areas were the most rotted out. I would assume from trapped water or wicking from the wet foam it was laying in.
I cut the foam back so it won't be touching the wood.
I bought 5/4 CCA decking. I was going to screw it to the bottom of the deck before installing to give the seat bolts a solid 1 1/4 wood to screw into. The seat will be opened which will probably put more stress on the screws. I don't want wobbly seats.

Good idea or asking for rot?
Bottom of deck painted in 100% acrylic latex exterior paint. 4 coats.
Not optimal but plywood was from another project

 

[GSPLures]

What I am doing for my seats.

After I have the deck glassed in I am going to cut a 12x12 piece for the lags to go into that wont penetrate the deck. completely encapsulate that and PB that to the deck then glass over so that piece will rot and be completely separate from the deck.

That way I would only have to redo those pieces if and when water penetrates that area

 

[jbcurt00]

Is your 5/4 CCA stamped KDAT

GSPLures siggestion is a great way to accomplish your intended goal. Your way is likely to shrink as the 5/4 dries out and risks splitting. When it does, its buried beneath your deck and completely unaccessable w out cutting open your deck.

And in a glass boat, paint isnt a preferred sealing method for plywood.

So no, again, not a great plan.

I get it, doing it right isnt simple, easy or cheap. Welcome to boating....

There are resources available here, use them.

Read all topics here

How To's and Other Great Information

Disclaimer iBoats has no control over external links contained in stickies and to be aware that links are fluid and may or may not work. 1. Coast Guard Safety Standards for Backyard Boat Builders Verified 2. Fiberglass Information Verified 3. Pouring Foam in's and out's Verified 4A. Basic...

forums.iboats.com

Pay attention to WoodOnGlass how to do decks, stringers & transoms.

Follow his methods and you'll get long years of safe service from your boat.

Never forget what BOAT stands for and that its a hole in the water into which you pour money....

 

[jonny rotten]

Is your 5/4 CCA stamped KDAT

GSPLures siggestion is a great way to accomplish your intended goal. Your way is likely to shrink as the 5/4 dries out and risks splitting. When it does, its buried beneath your deck and completely unaccessable w out cutting open your deck.

And in a glass boat, paint isnt a preferred sealing method for plywood.

So no, again, not a great plan.

I get it, doing it right isnt simple, easy or cheap. Welcome to boating....

There are resources available here, use them.

Read all topics here

How To's and Other Great Information

Disclaimer iBoats has no control over external links contained in stickies and to be aware that links are fluid and may or may not work. 1. Coast Guard Safety Standards for Backyard Boat Builders Verified 2. Fiberglass Information Verified 3. Pouring Foam in's and out's Verified 4A. Basic...

forums.iboats.com

Pay attention to WoodOnGlass how to do decks, stringers & transoms.

Follow his methods and you'll get long years of safe service from your boat.

Never forget what BOAT stands for and that its a hole in the water into which you pour money....

You have not offered a single stich of useful information besides " don't do it" literally nothing.
Completely useless comments....feel free not to worry about my project

 

[jbcurt00]

Once again, ignoring questions and advice about where to find GOOD info about how to proceed.

Again: Is your 5/4 (pressure treated) home deck board material stamped KDAT?

When asked questions about material choices and rebuild plans you post, you either ignore them outright or simply disregard them for whatever reason, and proceed w your own poorly thought out plan. Insert using the OTF and 5200 for a deck in a glass boat that needs the deck tied to the hull w glass and poly resin.

WoodOnGlass has an excellent resource that most find simple to understand and follow. No need to regurgitate it here just because you arent interested enough to read it.

Do as you wish, it is your project to complete.

Recommend you access resources already available for your enjoyment.

Good luck w your project

 

[jonny rotten]

Once again, ignoring questions and advice about where to find GOOD info about how to proceed.

Again: Is your 5/4 (pressure treated) home deck board material stamped KDAT?

When asked questions about material choices and rebuild plans you post, you either ignore them outright or simply disregard them for whatever reason, and proceed w your own poorly thought out plan. Insert using the OTF and 5200 for a deck in a glass boat that needs the deck tied to the hull w glass and poly resin.

WoodOnGlass has an excellent resource that most find simple to understand and follow. No need to regurgitate it here just because you arent interested enough to read it.

Do as you wish, it is your project to complete.

Recommend you access resources already available for your enjoyment.

Good luck w your project

Not looking to ague with you on my feel good project but why don't you look at your post #6. Directly after my long post asking many questions your only response was " do it right or don't do it".....completely useless with ZERO help/ That has been your theme my entire thread. Feel free to disappear

 

[jbcurt00]

Not looking to ague with you on my feel good project but why don't you look at your post #6. Directly after my long post asking many questions your only response was " do it right or don't do it".....completely useless with ZERO help/ That has been your theme my entire thread. Feel free to disappear

That was after you'd ignored good advice in 1 of the 2 topics you started about doing the deck, before they were merged because of overlapping discussions about how you should proceed.

Again, advice was offered and ignored, hence the do it right or dont.

Doing it half way is dangerous, and although I cant say w 100% autority that something will fail and that when it does, it can be catastrophic neither can you w 100% accuracy say it won't. And in there somewhere is what will actually happen.

When something happens you cant just pull over and get out like a car.

Dont confuse brevity w rudeness, moderators pour over hundreds of topics a day, some get no attention, some get lots and every way in between.

Good luck w your project
Boat and boat rehab safely

 

[jonny rotten]

What I am doing for my seats.

After I have the deck glassed in I am going to cut a 12x12 piece for the lags to go into that wont penetrate the deck. completely encapsulate that and PB that to the deck then glass over so that piece will rot and be completely separate from the deck.

That way I would only have to redo those pieces if and when water penetrates that area
My old back to back seats have the crossmember of the seats flush to the floor. That's what they get screwed into. adding a piece of wood over the deck will raise the seats off the floor.....I don't see how that would work in my situation. Maybe your seats are different. The new seats look to be the same from what I see on videos and websites

 

[jonny rotten]

What I am doing for my seats.

After I have the deck glassed in I am going to cut a 12x12 piece for the lags to go into that wont penetrate the deck. completely encapsulate that and PB that to the deck then glass over so that piece will rot and be completely separate from the deck.

That way I would only have to redo those pieces if and when water penetrate

What I am doing for my seats.

After I have the deck glassed in I am going to cut a 12x12 piece for the lags to go into that wont penetrate the deck. completely encapsulate that and PB that to the deck then glass over so that piece will rot and be completely separate from the deck.

That way I would only have to redo those pieces if and when water penetrates that area

My old back to back seats have the crossmember of the seats flush to the floor. That's what they get screwed into. adding a piece of wood over the deck will raise the seats off the floor.....I don't see how that would work in my situation.

 

[GSPLures]

It will raise the seats the thickness of the sacrificial wood. You can lay the piece and set the seats on top to see how much it will affect the look/comfort.
Normally you cut the wood larger than the base and cut the edge at a 45 so there will be a smooth transition. Once it is glassed in and carpeted/gel coated it looks like a part of the deck only difference is the slight height difference for the seat.
Through bolting a seat or a lag into the top of the deck is in my opinion asking for rot. Water will at some point sit there and penetrate.

 

[todhunter]

I was in the same place you were 7 months ago - never touched any fiberglass before then. You'll pick it up pretty quick.

 

[jonny rotten]

Made some progress.
Added PT wood in all the areas I thought it needed.. dry fit 6 inch 1708 fiberglass then got to work fiberglassing for the first time in my life. I soaked it good and rolled it out with a fiberglass roller. It still looks white in some areas but there are no bubbles and I brushed it on heavy.Hoping it works out....the fiberglass was a learning experience for sure

 

[briangcc]

Just trying to understand here....

In post #5 you mentioned the foam was waterlogged. I don't see where it was removed and replaced. You do realize that by not replacing it, you are potentially carrying around 400+lbs of excess weight. This will effect the performance of your boat. Also, the purpose of the foam is to provide flotation should your boat get swamped....it can't do that job if its waterlogged. You may want to rethink this and replace that foam.

Also in your above post, #52, it appears common 2x4 framing was added. Was that wrapped in anything to protect it?


I get the idea of wanting to be back on the water quickly. I really, really do. But at what cost? What happens when you hit a wave the wrong way and these shortcuts come back and possibly bite you? Back in the dry dock redoing everything yet again? At that point did you really save anything?

My humble opinion, would be to slow down, review the links that have been provided several times in this thread on how to properly deal with stringers, transoms, floors, and do it correctly once. Hundreds of restos bear witness to these methods being time tested.

 

[jonny rotten]

Just trying to understand here....

In post #5 you mentioned the foam was waterlogged. I don't see where it was removed and replaced. You do realize that by not replacing it, you are potentially carrying around 400+lbs of excess weight. This will effect the performance of your boat. Also, the purpose of the foam is to provide flotation should your boat get swamped....it can't do that job if its waterlogged. You may want to rethink this and replace that foam.

Also in your above post, #52, it appears common 2x4 framing was added. Was that wrapped in anything to protect it?


I get the idea of wanting to be back on the water quickly. I really, really do. But at what cost? What happens when you hit a wave the wrong way and these shortcuts come back and possibly bite you? Back in the dry dock redoing everything yet again? At that point did you really save anything?

My humble opinion, would be to slow down, review the links that have been provided several times in this thread on how to properly deal with stringers, transoms, floors, and do it correctly once. Hundreds of restos bear witness to these methods being time tested.

The foam was only water logged on top. I shaved down a full 2 garbage pails and they couldnt have weighed more then 15 pounds as I lifted them with one hand. I guess water logged is an overstatement and they were just wet. That was only removing about 3 inches off the top. There is still plenty/ most of the foam left. I also shaved down the edge of the stringers to check them and to see if there was water pooling in the bottom. The bottom was dry and the stringers looked good.
I've also read boats over 20 ft don't require foam and I'm 19 1/2.....close enough to shave off 3 inches

The wood I added was pressure treated and will outlive the boat ten times over. I wanted a solid deck and with out the wood the seams and corners would have been bouncy. Now it's solid as a rock. I also screwed the deck into the PT wood with decking screws and glassed over the screws. I realize your not supposed to screw through the stringers breaking the glass bond but by the time they rot out from a filled screw hole the boat will be long gone. I also realize that with the screws in the deck this will never get done again but by then this boat will be long gone burned by the fire dept which is where I plan on donating it after the fist major money issue like a new motor. Hopefully I'll get al least 5 years or more before any major issues....fingers crossed

 

[jbcurt00]

Why keep asking for advice if you plan to ignore most (all) of it?

Quick way to stop getting help that you clearly need.

You've likely added weight w PT wooden framing, you likely need more flotation to keep it afloat, not 3in less.

Make sure you carry the required PFDs for everyone aboard.

Boat & boat resto safely

 

[jonny rotten]

Why keep asking for advice if you plan to ignore most (all) of it?

Quick way to stop getting help that you clearly need.

Boat & boat resto safely

Another non helpful comment from you. What have I ignored? I was going to use 5700 and went with fiberglass as recommended. I asked about wood under the seats and the only comment won't work with my setup.....which I responded to. The last post asked about foam and untreated wood wood which I responded to. I said from the beginning this wasn't going to be a full restoration job. That's not ignoring advise to rip out all the stringers and do a full restoration

Your advise 3 different times was "don't do it" "Insufficient plan" and " do it right or don't do it " without a single explanation why......those I ignored
When I brought it up your response was " as a moderator I don't have have time to go into detail"......are you even kidding me

 

[jonny rotten]

You've likely added weight w PT wooden framing, you likely need more flotation to keep it afloat, not 3in less.

Make sure you carry the required PFDs for everyone

LOL 2 pieces of wood weighing 20 pounds total max. Hope I don't catch a keeper or I'm going under

 

[jbcurt00]

Another non helpful comment from you...

Just making sure anyone who finds this topic doesnt mistake it for sound rebuild methods.

I refrain from lengthy explanations as you've prove repeatedly that you'll disregard it.

Boat & boat rehab safely

 

[GSPLures]

LOL 2 pieces of wood weighing 20 pounds total max. Hope I don't catch a keeper or I'm going under

Not being a full resto is not an excuse for using a build method that is sub par. Will your way work? Possibly or possibly not.

Even glassing pressure treated wood that is not properly and fully dried will more than likely delaminate.

An extra 20 pounds probably doesn't matter unless your method of repair fails and you dont have the proper flotation for the boat when in good solid condition.

People on here get upset with short cuts because they know that there is a good chance of failure when not done properly. They also understand you will not be the only one on the boat. So if you care about the people you take out do it right or warn them about repairs that are not done to standard.

 

[jonny rotten]

Just making sure anyone who finds this topic doesnt mistake it for sound rebuild methods.

It's not a rebuild.....it's a floor replacement. With ONE sheet of plywood.....what are you not understanding about that. I'M REPLACING ONE SHEET OF PLYWOOD WITH SOLID STRINGERS.....I thought I would document my project and ask questions along the way.. Your obviously one of those people talk down everything....I feel very comfortable in my process....hard to believe your a moderator.....for those who might find this thread later