PlayDoh’s 16 SS resto underway

[PlayD0h]

So my trailer has these 2 foot tall pole guides (aftermarket) that were essentially useless to guide the boat in, but did keep the stern centered somewhat once the boat was like half way on.
Theres an older post where some guy used old trampoline frame parts to make pole guides. I had to cut the lengths that laid horizontal on the ground, in half then weld them back together since they had a bend there. They were a shallow “W” shaped.
Using the brackets from the short guides, I can mount these longer ones, but I need to bend them out a bit. Then I’ll put some PVC pipe over it, maybe carpet the PVC, and they should help retrieving.
Next Im going to put some horizontal carpeted wood guides on the sides. My trailer makes you pay if you don’t come in perfect enough to hit a roller. I got a decent scratch from missing once this last trip.

There is literally nothing to help guide the boat. I normally power up to the trailer super slow, then jump over the bow and hand guide it on to the keel rollers. I get it far enough on its secure somewhat, then grab the strap and start cranking it. If it’s anything but calm water it’s a nightmare.

Waiting to retrieve I watched these 2 guys in there late 20’s load a huge $75-$80 thousand boat. They backed so far in the seriously jacked up truck was gurgling. They were both soaked and were positioning the boat then the one would jump in the truck and pull out while the other floated the boat with the trailer. Now I had to learn the hard way myself, and it’s not the first time I’ve seen the same thing. But with that kind of boat I was dumbfounded. I so badly wanted to ask them what the deal was. $70,000 truck $70,000 boat isn’t the equipment you use to learn. I think daddy forgot to make sure they knew what they were doing before handing them the keys.

Anyways, it made me realize how difficult retrieving a boat is, compared to how it could be. We have sonar that competes with navy subs, fuel injected 4 stroke motors, yet from 14’ runabouts to quarter million dollar cigar boats we all use the same trailers our grandparents did. Yes most modern boats with custom trailers are pretty simple to retrieve, but I can’t help but think 1 or 2 simple devices could make a huge difference. So my invention brain is cooking, and I have a few ideas already.

There was a Minn Kota commercial where 2 guys are fishing on a dock and this guy launches his empty boat. The trolling motor deploys itself and drives the boat to the dock, and the 2 guys are in awe. Retrieving could be comparably simple IMO. Patent pending, lol.

 

[PlayD0h]

https://youtu.be/y5ejwRj9t1Q

 

[DLNorth]

Here are a couple sorta late roller trailers.
The Spartan is what our SS16 is on, only a much larger version. The guides are the same as ours, they need to be positioned close to the boat and run on the "rub rail" (?) the folded splash deflector at the chine. We don't normally have a problem loading the boat.

The other is a Shorelander. Note that both of these have modest vee shapes in the cross members.

(ps, I have ours on a 2200 lbs Spartan w/brakes - the springs were reset for a 1600 lbs boat. I like a stout frame under my boat.)

 

[DLNorth]

The auto trolling motor is nice, but almost cost more than I have in the boat total.


"it only costs $2600"

 

[PlayD0h]

Here are a couple sorta late roller trailers.
The Spartan is what our SS16 is on, only a much larger version. The guides are the same as ours, they need to be positioned close to the boat and run on the "rub rail" (?) the folded splash deflector at the chine. We don't normally have a problem loading the boat.

The other is a Shorelander. Note that both of these have modest vee shapes in the cross members.

(ps, I have ours on a 2200 lbs Spartan w/brakes - the springs were reset for a 1600 lbs boat. I like a stout frame under my boat.)

I had a close look at a trailer with those type of rollers recently. I do like how they rest on top of the crossmember, as opposed to my bunk brackets which U-bolt to the vertical side. A failed U-bolt and the boat might tip over is my concern.
One caveat of the trailers in the pictures of yours is that the depth of the trailer would have to be right on. No? Too shallow and the keel will strike the crossmember, hence the plastic guards. I guess any trailer has to be at a specific depth, yet a keel roller trailer might be more forgiving.
I don’t think my crossmembers have near enough Vee in them to go with rollers. I’m considering cutting them and adding some angle to them. Even to simply get the keel rollers up off the crossmember. It’s almost always windy where I live and I think guides will suit me best.

My main obstacle at the moment is being able to approach the trailer with enough speed so that the boat won’t sway at the stern too much at the point between motor off and winch up. That and hitting the 12” wide roller with the keel 100% of the time doesn’t happen. And when I miss I’m metal on metal. That’s why I have to jump ship and guide it in, or stop it and guide it in again by hand. I call it ghetto retrieve lol.

Id like my bunk brackets to be wayyy more sturdy then they are now. Like 1/4” steel strong, welded wherever possible.

Thanks for the ideas and pictures.

 

[DLNorth]

The key with the roller setup like that on the Spartan is that it is "self centering", no keel rollers and as you pull the boat up/in, it centers in the rollers. All you have to do is get it close, which the side guides do.

 

[Watermann]

I have no issues as mentioned loading my boats on the bunk trailers, it's all about proper trailer depth for the multiple launches I use. Any launch that allows for fishing on the docks I do not power load, I use the bow line so I don't wind up any of the fishing line goofs snag up and snap off. Either method takes just about the same amount of time.

 

[PlayD0h]

Preview of my decals. I’m going to see if one of my local graphic shops will do them, including the SC one. Factoring in shipping might make it the same. I want both decals a bit bigger than shown. As a bonus I have the fish skeleton tattooed on me. It’s from the Trout Bum Diaries, fishing video set.

also note my new guides. They worked out good, yet might be a bit tight. I might add some carpet to the contact area to avoid any scuffs to the rub rail. The PVC is free to roll, but I doubt it will as it’s not that free-wheeling.

Id like to fab up some bunk supports and do what DozerII did to his identical trailer, and what WM suggested, and swap the wobble rollers for bunk. All that dozer did was put a bunk support on the crossmember and line up the others for a longer bunk. He put his bunk 2x4 on edge for strength, but I’m hesitant a bit to do the same. I’m concerned about there being a more concentrated contact area, especially if the bunk ends up on an angle and the hull rests on the bunk edge.
My bunk supports allow the bunk to tilt, yet also let them tilt / rotate 90° or more. I’m not sure a semi loose bunk is necessary. Personally I’d like to bolt and weld new HD bunk supports, since I don’t see the need for adjustable ones, other than for other boats. I don’t like the round tube held by a single u-bolt support.

 

[PlayD0h]

So this is odd. My boat now seems off balance. When I trim the motor on plane it will porpoise. I also noticed the trailer tongue weight feels lighter. I can lift and even pull the trailer much easier than before. It feels like if I lifted the tongue higher than needed, at a point it would tip back.
All that makes zero sense to me since essentially nothing is different other than the deck is now 5/8” vs 1/2”, and the transom is new wood. I don’t think the transom wood would weigh any different than the old one which was decently solid.
Literally nothing is different than how it was before in terms of weight and distribution. I tow the boat with nothing in it but light things. No batteries or fuel tanks. It makes for a lot of lifting but it’s gotta be better on the tires and deck. To be honest I’ve considered leaving the batteries in, since I’m getting too old to lift those beasts in and out.
Im thinking that putting the trolling motor batteries in front of the consoles rather than under them will be my first move, yet they will only be say 6” ahead of where they are now.
I left my anchor up front of the consoles today to see if it made any difference but it didn’t. I think it’s a 15 lbs anchor, although it feels like 115 when lifting it. I keep it in a bucket, usually at the rear. I would like to make a home for it under the casting deck at the front of the bow.
I’m gonna pull over on a scale next time I pass one. I’m pretty sure boat and trailer were 880 Kg (1900 lbs) when I did years ago. That’s unhitched, full weight. I honestly can’t imagine it being much more or less, and if I were to guess, I’d say 1 or 2 hundred pounds more from the deck but that’s being generous.

 

[bchaney]

Did you replace waterlogged foam? Maybe that affected the weight distribution.

 

[PlayD0h]

Did you replace waterlogged foam? Maybe that affected the weight distribution.

Good idea. Yet the PO only put like 6 big blobs of spray foam under the deck.

 

[coostv]

I would just keep playing with the trim, nose it down until it goes away and starts slowing down and then up a little at a time until the speed picks back up. Moving the battery forward will affect the way it handles for sure.

I would just leave everything in it when towing, seems like a lot of work to save carrying 2-300# in the boat!

Your increase in deck thickness likely only added 30-40 pounds to the weight of the boat.

 

[bchaney]

Yea I leave everything in the boat including bags of supplies for the day and a full cooler on the way out. If I was towing long distance I'd consider taking stuff out, but only things that aren't strapped down since they may slide around.

 

[PlayD0h]

Took some ‘on water’ pics last week. Not the best day to do so, but it was the only time I remembered and had time at the launch.

 

[PlayD0h]

I left everything but the fuel tank and anchor in the boat. Now I need to start setting up the interior, yet I won’t tackle the Splashwell redo until I’m done for the year.

I was going to try contact cement for the carpeting but hesitated. It’s too bad the 3M 77 spray stuff doesn’t work, since that would have been easiest and maybe cheapest. They want $40 for a gallon of ‘outdoor carpet adhesive’ and while I won’t need a lot, I also don’t need it glued to the same degree as floor stuff. Nor do I want to spend $100-$200 on glue, yet I might be over estimating the amount I’ll need. I have 12’x7’ of carpet but don’t think I’ll need all of it.

The inner hull sides at the bow 2(1’x6’), the console fronts both in and out 2’x2’ish x2, and the side panels 6’x2’ x2. Later will be the Splashwell redo/ casting deck.

Im still deciding on what I’ll do with the side panels. Either build them out like modern boats, with rod locker and storage since the new seats give the room for it. Or keep them original. I stepped up to fairly pricey rods and reels last fall, so a lockable and safe semi-padded place to keep them would be awesome.

I also need to build tackle storage. Loose boxes and bags are getting old. I’m thinking of building a rack under the consoles for drawers. Making them lockable to some extent would be a bonus. I’m almost ashamed of how much tackle I have, lol. And every trip I end up with a heap on both dashes.

I know its all been done before, and I’ll have to search till my eyes bleed again and see everyone’s work to steal their good ideas. lol

 

[PlayD0h]

Off topic, I seen my Lottery boat on the lake. Thunder Jet - Luxor. I jokingly told the owner that I thought we took each other’s boats by accident, since they were so much alike.

 

[Watermann]

Hey your SS looks great out on the water :thumb:

 

[bchaney]

Yea the boat looks great in her natural habitat! I like your ideas for rod and tackle storage if you have the space. Do you have to glue every square inch of carpet? If not I bet you could lay down beads of it in strategic locations and make a gallon go a long way.

 

[PlayD0h]

Yea the boat looks great in her natural habitat! I like your ideas for rod and tackle storage if you have the space. Do you have to glue every square inch of carpet? If not I bet you could lay down beads of it in strategic locations and make a gallon go a long way.

I most likely wouldn’t need to glue the entire surface, yet I think I’d prefer to. My luck I would glue where it wasn’t needed, and not where it would and it would wrinkle, bulge and be loose in spots. It’s fairly thin stuff with a foam-ish backing. All 12’x7’ weighs around like 5 pounds.

I could have spent more for carpet a stiff backing, but I wanted it to wrap around edges. I’m not sure how well that will look or work yet.

While it looks good, I think it really needs the decals. It’s looks too blocky and amateurish as it is. I still haven’t checked my local graphics shop, but I did price it out at Vistaprint and it was around $50 for 2 ‘car-door’ decals the size of my fish decal.

I did look at plain rolls / sheets of vinyl, with the idea I could just cut out the designs with an exacto-knife. I’m pretty good at detailed stuff like that, and my designs aren’t that complex. Some clear placement ‘paper’ and I’d be set, all for $50-$100 for my 10”x18” fish and 2 3’ long Starcraft decals, with enough left over for a second set or extra decals.

If anyones interested in the vinyl search for Oracle 751, yet there’s quite a few other brands as well. 651 is more common but 751 is better for outdoors.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I left everything but the fuel tank and anchor in the boat. Now I need to start setting up the interior, yet I won’t tackle the Splashwell redo until I’m done for the year.

I was going to try contact cement for the carpeting but hesitated. It’s too bad the 3M 77 spray stuff doesn’t work, since that would have been easiest and maybe cheapest. They want $40 for a gallon of ‘outdoor carpet adhesive’ and while I won’t need a lot, I also don’t need it glued to the same degree as floor stuff. Nor do I want to spend $100-$200 on glue, yet I might be over estimating the amount I’ll need. I have 12’x7’ of carpet but don’t think I’ll need all of it.

The inner hull sides at the bow 2(1’x6’), the console fronts both in and out 2’x2’ish x2, and the side panels 6’x2’ x2. Later will be the Splashwell redo/ casting deck.

Im still deciding on what I’ll do with the side panels. Either build them out like modern boats, with rod locker and storage since the new seats give the room for it. Or keep them original. I stepped up to fairly pricey rods and reels last fall, so a lockable and safe semi-padded place to keep them would be awesome.

I also need to build tackle storage. Loose boxes and bags are getting old. I’m thinking of building a rack under the consoles for drawers. Making them lockable to some extent would be a bonus. I’m almost ashamed of how much tackle I have, lol. And every trip I end up with a heap on both dashes.

I know its all been done before, and I’ll have to search till my eyes bleed again and see everyone’s work to steal their good ideas. lol

Those photos look great. The 3M super 77 worked well for me applying vinyl flooring to my varnished plywood.