New Journey

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
So you and the Admiral didn't speak for 4 months or what? 😊
We had an agreement. Her biggest concern was with all the other projects going on around the house...and knowing me, I would be too focused on working on the boat and not finishing everything else. She had a good point:) I didn't want to lose the platform, so now I have it secured in my name and tucked away 4 hours from home so I won't be tempted/distracted. I'm up that way quite often to fish and hunt, so I'll still be able to tinker away on it while I'm there.
 

crankbait cowboy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Messages
574
congrads MN. yep, if a man likes hotdish, and all the other support a good admiral provides, then a bit of give and take goes a long ways. good on you both for it working out !
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
What’s the cleanest and most economical way to convert this port side Commander control unit to a top mount or starboard side mount? Seems like all the top mount units are $300+ Or, do I just keep it as is...as backwards as it seems?
7E7B6259-6F9B-428A-BA11-B6CF46CA8C11.jpeg
72BA4023-10CF-42DA-8EB6-4214CE8BAA63.jpeg
 

Mikesta

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2018
Messages
86
Wow this thread is an emotional roller coaster, I was excited for the new boat then bummed when you didn't get it, Then I was excited you bought it then bummed when you said she's on hold until spring. I'm looking forward to watching this build as its the same boat I'm building but mine is a 1982.

I didn't realize these consoles came with windshields on them but I like the look of it, same with the wood trim around it. What's in the box underneath the console that the fire extinguisher looks like it's mounted on? is that for the batteries?
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
What's in the box underneath the console that the fire extinguisher looks like it's mounted on? is that for the batteries?
Haven’t figured out what’s under the box, but assuming it’s housing the runs for the steering and control cables. Battery is stuffed under the narrow splashwell and two 6 gallon gas tanks stuffed under the helm seat with a run under the deck for the gas line. I like the looks of the windshield and bar/rail surround as well. You can see I removed it in some of the other pictures to keep it in good shape for later. Next time I’m up I plan to de-rig it all and get the motor, controls, steering, battery, tanks, etc. back home and into the heated garage. I’d like to tear out the floor as well, but figured I might want it in for some structural integrity for the 4 hour trip home. Should be able to yank the console, livewell, and helm seat though without compromising anything.
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
My wife knows me better than I know myself, and I can see why she didn't want another boat sitting in the garage until I had all my other projects taken care of...

As I brainstorm this next adventure, I'm seeking input from the mob.
1) Motor - the boat currently sits with a 1982 Mercury 70hp with the older style dual ram PTT. From all the information I've gathered, and my previous experience with the Classic Fifty(45hp) on my 16SS, the trim unit is considered to be a rather good system and the 70hp on this 705lb hull has, and would continue to be completely adequate for my needs. My 16SS was spec'd at 650lb and although a little underpowered, worked well for my needs with the 45hp...so I'd expect the 70hp(although powerhead rated in '82) should be fine for this 705lb hull if propped right. This will primarily be a fishing boat, but with two boys (8 and 9), I'm not sure if someday I'll want a little more power available for other activities.

That being said, the hull is rated to a 115hp, and the existing motor/trim set up does not utilize the standard BIA bolt/mounting pattern. Knowing I will be replacing the transom and repairing any unwanted holes in the existing transom skin, I'm a bit hesitant to punch new holes through the transom that I may not be needing down the road if I ever decide to upgrade to a larger motor. There are limited options for upgrading HP and maintaining the existing mounting pattern.
I guess my paralysis by analysis is in determining my intent to:
A) stick with the existing 70hp and PTT and carry on
B) sell the existing motor and replace with a suitable candidate closer to max HP rating
C) replace existing PTT unit with a CMC to maintain standard bolt/PTT capabilities and leverage existing motor.

2) Controls - would love to go to a top mount control and will likely make the investment once I determine the motor/make I'll be running, but are there other options out there for a starboard side mount on a center console that wouldn't result in everything being backward?

3) Paint Stripping - with only the non-methylene strippers now available, is there anything out there that is actually worth a damn? I had great success with the legacy version of the Klean-Strip Aircraft Remover in the past, but everything I've read on the new non-methylene replacement leaves a lot to be desired.

Anyone have any suggestions on the direction I should go with the motor, controls, and/or stripper?

Motor.jpeg
Tilt.jpeg
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
At 200 bucks I seriously doubt any of us have glommed onto one of those. 😂
View attachment 332223

Yeah, had I known I'd be three boats in by now, it might have been a good investment. My Harbor Freight gun has worked just fine. But...with an assortment of M12 and M18 tools/batteries on hand...it is a bit tempting:)
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
3,412
apologies for the belated congrats @MNhunter1 !!

I too thought that it was just someone bumping your old thread & rubbing salt in the wound! 😁

If a feller doesn't have a compressor, that milwalkee riveter would be cost & space effective! Imagine if they can package it with a riveting hammer, bucking bar, sets and clecos. 🤑🤑
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
Nothing to update on the boat, still living in a barn 4 hours away. Plan to head up the weekend of 2/20 and do a little ice fishing. Will be pulling the motor, console, helm seat, etc. and bringing what I can back home. In the meantime, been hitting the ice with my kids and a few of their friends...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9735.JPG
    IMG_9735.JPG
    159.9 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_9736.JPG
    IMG_9736.JPG
    85.3 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_E9647.JPG
    IMG_E9647.JPG
    2.2 MB · Views: 11
  • IMG_E9661.JPG
    IMG_E9661.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 13
  • IMG_E9713.JPG
    IMG_E9713.JPG
    2.7 MB · Views: 13
  • IMG_E9719.JPG
    IMG_E9719.JPG
    1.4 MB · Views: 13

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
I've decided to keep my eye out for a newer(prop rated) 85-115hp with BIA mounting pattern to swap out with the 70hp Mercury. My last two boats both had '87 Mercury's hanging off the back, so after rebuilding carbs, fuel pumps, replacing switchboxes, stator, and trigger, I feel somewhat comfortable, at least familiar, with them. I know it's sort of a Ford/Chevy thing, but is there any motor in particular I should be looking for, or staying away from, in that late 80's to early 90's era between Merc, Johnny/Rude, Yamaha?
 

DLNorth

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 26, 2016
Messages
432
Nice boat, I agree the 70 might be a bit under powered. I can't help with recommendations, other then I'd lean Merc, and a 4 stroke is a must.
 

64osby

Admiral
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
6,816
If the replacement was a 4 stroke then yes, with swmbo approval. I think the 70 would serve your needs for a long time.

I have a 90 on my Mariner 21 and can do 38mph with the family on board. It may be little slow out of the hole but we still ski and tube.

On the controls, can the unit be flipped to the starboard side?

If not, an extension panel could be built on the the side of the console to house the controls on the starboard side.
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
Was planning on sticking with a later model, and lighter, 2 stroke. The 70hp has served the hull well for ~38 years. It would likely be sufficient for my needs, but as a crank rated 70hp and a max HP rating of 115hp, I think I would be better suited with a prop rated 90-115hp 2 stroke. If it wasn't for the non-standard mounting pattern, I'd be more tempted to stick with the current 70hp and consider a future upgrade, but I'm trying to avoid any additional through holes in the new transom.
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
Another question for the mob - would I be potentially compromising anything structurally by trailering a bare hull on a 4 hour trip? I'm considering stripping her down and yanking the decking, foam, splashwell, and transom before bringing her back home for the rebuild. I can make a lot more efficient work of the tear down where she currently sits and have a burn pile nearby to get rid of the scrap wood. Saves making a mess of my garage and the logistics of getting rid of all the garbage. I'd throw a 2x across the empty transom to reduce any flex, but wasn't sure if having the decking/sw/transom removed would be enough to cause any flex issues on the trailer.
 

64osby

Admiral
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
6,816
Another question for the mob - would I be potentially compromising anything structurally by trailering a bare hull on a 4 hour trip? I'm considering stripping her down and yanking the decking, foam, splashwell, and transom before bringing her back home for the rebuild. I can make a lot more efficient work of the tear down where she currently sits and have a burn pile nearby to get rid of the scrap wood. Saves making a mess of my garage and the logistics of getting rid of all the garbage. I'd throw a 2x across the empty transom to reduce any flex, but wasn't sure if having the decking/sw/transom removed would be enough to cause any flex issues on the trailer.
If it were me I would do the transom as you stated, but would also add 2 more cross braces to shore up the sides. Dividing the hull in thirds. It would keep the width dimension locked in which is important.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,786
I drove my gutted V5 SS home from Alberta border crossing in Montana to North central Washington but the transom wood was in it. The only concern I would have is no transom means no stern eyes to hold the boat down to the trailer.
 

MNhunter1

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 12, 2014
Messages
1,053
Getting ready for the motor. Heading up to ice fish the weekend and de-rig the MR180. Hoping to yank the console, seat, and livewell too, but not sure if I’ll have room to drag it all back. My buddy is up there every other week or so though, so I’ll get it all home eventually...
7B788066-BC3E-4DC6-8EFD-D75B1C0E4C95.jpeg6256E42D-ACB1-425C-9E44-0BDDC972AB6D.jpeg
 
Top