My Rotten Lady

kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
Hey guys. I want to remove long decals / stickers from my shorelander steel painted trailer. What is an efficient way to do so. These are about 8 foot long and 3 inch wide. Chemically / Mechanically or both. Thanks
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
If the decals are of the plastic, self adhesive variety, the best way to remove them is to use some gentle heat, like from a hair dryer. This material tends to harden with age and so, it will chip off constantly, coming away in small bits. Applying heat softens it and makes it supple, so you can get a decent edge lifted and then just peel it back, applying heat to the underside, softening the adhesive, as you go along.

​You may have a little adhesive residue showing when you're done, but this can be removed with white spirits or similar.
 

kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
If the decals are of the plastic, self adhesive variety, the best way to remove them is to use some gentle heat, like from a hair dryer. This material tends to harden with age and so, it will chip off constantly, coming away in small bits. Applying heat softens it and makes it supple, so you can get a decent edge lifted and then just peel it back, applying heat to the underside, softening the adhesive, as you go along.

​You may have a little adhesive residue showing when you're done, but this can be removed with white spirits or similar.

Thanks Sogood. I used a heat gun and they came off all in one piece. I tried the heat gun on the boat pinstriping and it didn't work which is why I was asking.
 

kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
I started to disassemble the trailer this weekend in between passing storms. I have half of it lightly sanded with 80 grit and power washed. Im going to divide the project in half doing the receiver to the first axle first. Two thin coats of Macropoxy epoxy for the base coat and two thin coats of Acrolon poly as a top coat. Then disassemble the fenders spray them along with the rest of the rear frame and axles. A lot of work ahead of me. Need a good weather weekend. My friend owns a painting company and recommended this system. Over kill Im sure.

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kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
After much grinding and sanding and cleaning I was able to apply the first primer base coat. This product is thick and thinning is not recommended unless you are spraying it.The product mixes 1 to 1 and must sweat-in for 30 minutes before applying. At 72 degrees I had a working time of 1 hour. While it was curing I started to disassemble the back half of the trailer. Its a slow grind but I enjoy this type of work. My plan is to spray the fiberglass fenders with 4 coats also. I hope to get a coat a day on but that's unrealistic. Maybe...

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sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
Looking good. I have a small trailer for my 16' Microplus, which is in the water at the moment, so an overhaul will be done before I have to take the boat back ashore again. In between fixing up my Wellcraft that is! I've already done some remedial grinding and welding to the trailer, but a serious job is needed on the rollers, which aren't actually proper rollers at all!

​Ah well, it beats twiddling the thumbs.........................
 

kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
Thanks sogood. Its hard to get to everything we have on our plates...Nice when you see the light thou.
 

kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
Well I did get one coat a day on. I let it cure in the sun for 2 days and applied pinstripe. Now to tackle the rear half this week including the fenders. I have not used a spray gun since 1979 when I painted a car so I have no faith in my abilities but Im gonna try to walk thru it. Its scary in there.LOL

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kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
Well it wasn't so scary after all. The Boogie man was a NO SHOW....
I purchased an in line regulator and dryer from HF. Drilled out the Purple Gun to 5/16 and cleaned up the sealant within the components. Sanded the fenders with 80 grit then scrubbed the with TSP. Power washed them and set in sun. Mixed a 16 ounce batch of epoxy. Thinned 10 percent. Let sit for 30 minutes and did the deal. Batch was too large. 8 ounce would work. Getting schooled.
Three coats go...
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kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
Thanks for the kind words. Back in the day you would have overspray that could drift a half a block. This new technology was wonderful. And it was an inexpensive HF 8.99 gun. Very pleased with how it sprayed that thick epoxy.
Im now in a holding pattern for hardware. The slipper spring bolts were toast. Well all the bolts are toast. lol I figured out how to replace the carriage bolts on the frame pads. I used a bicycle inertube for a safety chain cover and purchased a new tongue jack. Still grinding and painting suspention parts. Weather has been unstable limiting work progress.

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Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
Happy to see that the HF gun modifications worked out I was pretty sure it would. Fenders Look GREAT!!!
 

kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
I read a lot of your purple gun write ups that guided me thru the process. Thanks
After days of searching for bushings for the reverse hook springs I contacted Shorlander and they actually still have attic stock of said bushings. The bushings on the open hook spring end all wore a flat spot in them. So im wondering do you leave them a little loose so they can rotate and wear more evenly? These were very tight to the hanger brackets and could not rotate. Thanks for any insight. They are being shipped today and I should have them next Thursday or so...
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89 resorter

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
287
Your trailer is turning out great! Was it a galvanized trailer? I'm wondering because I just pulled my galvanized Shorlander trailer out from under my boat and would like to paint it but have seen a lot of conflicting discussion of whether it is okay to paint over galvanized or not. If your is galvanized then I feel confident it can be done after looking at the finished results you got with the Sherwin Williams paint system.

Keep up the great work!
 

kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
Your trailer is turning out great! Was it a galvanized trailer? I'm wondering because I just pulled my galvanized Shorlander trailer out from under my boat and would like to paint it but have seen a lot of conflicting discussion of whether it is okay to paint over galvanized or not. If your is galvanized then I feel confident it can be done after looking at the finished results you got with the Sherwin Williams paint system.

Keep up the great work!
Thanks 89. The Macropoxy 646-100 fast cure system will indeed cover galvanized metal. Two coats is recommended. Its is also recommended to topcoat it to enhance UV stabilization. Macropoxy is really just a primer to be used as a barrier to chemicals and salts. You can google it and download the spec sheet that backs up what Im saying.

My trailer was NOT galvanized but had limited galvanized parts from the factory which are all in good shape since it has never seen salt water. Hope this helps.
 

89 resorter

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
287
That helps a lot. We use a lot of Sherwin Wiliams paints and powder coats where I work so next time our rep. visits I'm going to ask him about the Macropoxy .......Not whether or not it will work but how much of a discount I can get ;).

Thanks
 

kramerpage

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
447
Yes u need big discount. It's extremely pricy. Acrolon it twice the price btw.
 
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