My First StarCraft; 1975 18' SuperSport

[classiccat]

Spent the last week and a half/two weeks reading through this entire thread. Just wanted to stop by and say thanks for all the detailed info in this thread, it gave me ideas for my boat and answered about a million questions I had....Good luck with the rig going forward and thanks again!

You're most welcome; I appreciate the comment!

At least with the new format, the thread was reduced from 100+ to 80 pages

 

[GA_Boater]

You're most welcome; I appreciate the comment!

At least with the new format, the thread was reduced from 100+ to 80 pages

Because the default page layout is 20 instead of 15 posts per page. Makes it easier to find all my lame posts.

 

[classiccat]

Beautiful weather here in the Northeast... and today was perfect for leaning over a screaming flywheel with a timing light!

 

[BWR1953]

Very cool. Good job!

 

[Watermann]

Not so sure I care for that prop you have on there

 

[classiccat]

Not so sure I care for that prop you have on there

It's all bark, no bite!

 

[DLNorth]

CC,
Where are you fishing? Here in MN it's illegal to put rough fish back in the water (including carp). I suspect most end up in gardens.
And you should really consider WM's 140, that would make a fun boat out of it.

Dan

 

[classiccat]

CC,
Where are you fishing? Here in MN it's illegal to put rough fish back in the water (including carp). I suspect most end up in gardens.
And you should really consider WM's 140, that would make a fun boat out of it.

Dan

I was fishing the Hudson River in NY. I’m a longtime member of Carp Anglers Group (CAG). According to Mn DNR website it is perfectly legal to release common carp in the water that it was captured. It appears to be illegal to transport them to another wild water. Bighead and Silver Asian carp are another story.
Yeah that 140 would be a blast...literally! I’m quite content running in the low to mid 30’s in rivers...with a potential widow maker lurking around every bend. That 70 is pretty easy on the fuel as well!

 

[DLNorth]

Interesting, I wonder when (or if) they changed it, as I'm petty sure it wasn't legal years ago. Of course not many here "fish" for carp, lots of snagging in spring and bows later, and not much to return with this.

As for the Hp, we have a Merc 85 (75 prop) on our SS16 and it's about perfect. And the 18's are some where in the 120/140/170(?) range depending on year and model. (had a 18 V5 with a 470 I/O for a bit)

Currently have a couple towers and a 175 v6 in unknown conditions looking for boats. The 115 tower may just end up on an 18 SS, with the 175 on a CVX17 Glastron.

 

[classiccat]

I assembled a video that pulls the entire build together (apologies in advance for the stock youtube music )

 

[Watermann]

Nice solid work, should stand the test of time.

 

[Moserkr]

Just watched the last video again lol. Puts into perspective the amount of work Im up against! Definitely done right.

 

[classiccat]

Just watched the last video again lol. Puts into perspective the amount of work Im up against! Definitely done right.

Thanks man! That youtube music is going to melt your brain!

 

[classiccat]

I hope everyone is doing well. Spring is right around the corner!

I Just wanted to pop-up a quick response for @crankbait cowboy on how I kept the bend in my bow panels after sealing.

I ripped some relief cuts in some exterior 1/2" PLY except where carriage bolts go through.


I basically traced the curve to a long section of PLY, then transferred the offsets from the PLY to 3 2x6's and cut 1" wide slits. These held both pieces to dry after soaking with Old Timer's Formula (Boiled Linseed oil : Mineral Spirits : Spar Varnish @ 1:2:1 ratio)


I didn't get pics but after the pieces dried, I stuck the foam to the board with 3M-77 General adhesive. I then cut the trimmed the foam at a slight angle using my hot wire cutter.

The white vinyl was secured to the PLY with SS staples.


I hope that helps crankbait!

 

[crankbait cowboy]

definitly a big help, looks like a good idea and easy to see what you did. much appreciated and great unit youve built. mucho impressed classic

 

[classiccat]

I didn't want to stink-up @Bjur&Sons thread!

@classiccat ’s video just popped up on youtube again so figured why not with a cup of coffee to start the day.

Let me know when you start liking that stock YouTube music I used on that video @Moserkr .

I loaded an unlisted video (to share with family/friends) of waking up the 'Rude and get them excited for the new season.

Impressive smoke cloud (and NO YouTube music.) I tried a little experiment where, after draining the premix, fogging the intakes & cylinders, I pumped MMO through the engine's fuel system using the primer bulb. This way I don't have to worry about fuel evaporating in the float bowls and leaving 2stroke sludge behind. Plus I like the primer/check-valve & fuel pump to remain "wet".

 

[Moserkr]

Hahaha I just mute the stock music when its on. After watching it again and being at a halfway point with my build, seeing all your work definitely puts all that effort into perspective. Hundreds of hours of hard work at a minimum.

Im still a FNG - whats MMO?? Thats a good video and I like when my 75 starts that easy. Unfortunately, I didnt know how to work the choke all last year..... really hoping for a better round of starts this year lol.

 

[classiccat]

MMO: marvel mystery oil. I've never seen/heard anyone do this...so very limited "clinical" data on it other than "works for me & my OCD" !

Yeah the choke thing can be tricky b/c of how easy it is to flood. I start the engine holding the choke (with the warm-up lever if you have one), release the choke after a second or two and if I hear the RPMs rapidly drop, bump the choke...and keep bumping (1 or 2 times usually) it until it stays running. Once it starts running without the choke bumps, lower the warm-up lever and let it idle for a min or 2.

 

[Moserkr]

Appreciate the advice!! Considering I was using my warm up lever as a choke along with a healthy amount of starter fluid, I have reason to believe starting will be much easier this year lol. I still have a carb rebuild kit but not sure which path I will take since I have 2 motors. That will be a whole different thread in the future. But Im going to try your starting methods with the choke and hopefully I have good results! Will have to do more hw before I try mmo.

 

[classiccat]

Appreciate the advice!! Considering I was using my warm up lever as a choke along with a healthy amount of starter fluid, I have reason to believe starting will be much easier this year lol. I still have a carb rebuild kit but not sure which path I will take since I have 2 motors. That will be a whole different thread in the future. But Im going to try your starting methods with the choke and hopefully I have good results! Will have to do more hw before I try mmo.

(I'm not familiar with your experience level so apologies in advance if I sound condescending!) Since the lubrication on a 2 stroke relies solely on fuel delivery, clean carbs are super important esp on a multi-cylinder / multi-carb engine. if 1 cylinder is running lean (starved of fuel/lubrication), you risk burning it up. So I'd clean/rebuild those carbs regardless if you're going to keep the engine...think of it as practice. Also, I'd avoid using starter fluid in a 2 stroke (no lubrication). Mix-up some premix in a squirt bottle if you have to...but once you get the carbs cleaned/rebuilt, you shouldn't need any help from a squirt bottle. The other thing that is really important for good starting/running is linkage + carb synchronization, spark advance/timing; there's not really an easy button for this... requires attention to detail, a factory service manual and your iBoats buddies if you find yourself in a pinch!