My First StarCraft; 1975 18' SuperSport

[FIGMO]

Hey Classic! Holy smoke I can't believe I haven't seen your restoration yet!

WOW, that is beautiful work. Love the video too.

You should do a post on how to do posts. Very well organized. Maybe the best I have seen thus far.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3sOuEv0E2I

 

[FIGMO]

I also took a similar approach to the rod holders on my splash well:

 

[classiccat]

Hey Classic! Holy smoke I can't believe I haven't seen your restoration yet!

WOW, that is beautiful work. Love the video too.

You should do a post on how to do posts. Very well organized. Maybe the best I have seen thus far.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3sOuEv0E2I

Thank you for the kind words Brother FIGMO! :tea:

Yeah that splashwell makes an excellent stern rod rack!

I got the rig out 2 more times; Sunday and today.

C85 WheelHorse tow tractor in action.

The Sunday trip was for final tuning (set the idle in-gear and unencumbered), throttle cam, linkage and reset the max spark advance; when all was said and done, I had to retard the timing by 2 degrees.

Setting spark advance in the parking lot using the "Joe Reeves" method (-4 degrees).

With all of that, the motor ran like kah kah thanks to the misfire returning to cylinder1 with a vengence ...b/c I tried reusing that original plug boot (like a dumb dumb).

I chalked it up to another turn of the crank until both the admiral and our daughter expressed disappointment that they couldn't spend the day on the water...so I promised I'd redeem myself and knock a day off of work.

I swapped out those junk plug boots (that came with the OEM coils) and installed more robust BRP boots and a new set of plugs.

With the new plugs/boots and the fuel/ignition dialed in, the boat ran flawlessly all day today at all speeds, bilge remains dry...and we even caught 2 small channel cats!

just a hair under 5200RPM ...and the voltage pegged as we predicted...still working-up the courage to install that regulator (stators aren't cheap!)

My daughter was also the ships safety officer...ensuring I was wearing my life jacket and lanyard while underway (true story GA_Boater !) :lol:

^^^ I installed the bimini on the slide tracks that came with the boat.

Start with 4 of these nylon sliders and I added a helicoil to each one for the screw that locks them in position

This was Max's 1st boat ride (he is in excellent health now with his diabetes under control)...We're really looking forward to some bow cushions!

Thanks for stoppin' by! :yo:

 

[GA_Boater]

Good boy, Max. Keep that rowdy crew ship-shape!

Those rod holders have an unmentioned benefit, nice bimini rest.

 

[laurentide]

Hey CC, CDI makes a regulator/rectifier for these engines. It's model 193-3408. I've got one installed and my voltage is a consistent 14v at high RPMs. Under $80 from the usual places.

 

[classiccat]

Good boy, Max. Keep that rowdy crew ship-shape!

Those rod holders have an unmentioned benefit, nice bimini rest.

Good eye GAB! They hold it at the proper height and it's secured there when trailering. Also if if we want to fish with it down, the sliders allow it to sit aft of the holders.

Hey CC, CDI makes a regulator/rectifier for these engines. It's model 193-3408. I've got one installed and my voltage is a consistent 14v at high RPMs. Under $80 from the usual places.

Man that's the ticket right there chem! I have one for a tractor but I'd rather pay for the peace of mind for something from CDI! It's already in my cart. :thumb: :lol:

 

[ctswf]

After a summer of solid use, my last trip my motor just started doing exactly what you describe. I'll be watching for your diagnosis.

Just an update to my earlier comment here on my own 70hp evinrude, I did change the spark plugs, but I believe my issue was the gas tank heating up and pressurizing in the sun (to comical Balloon popping pressure). My last tank had a self relief air vent. My current does not. I started unscrewing the cap periodically in summer heat and all is running well.
​​​​​​

 

[Watermann]

Hey thanks for the ride along on your water day with the family, looks like the weather was overcast but not too windy, I like those summer days :thumb:

Where's the pics of those cat daddys? :lol:

 

[classiccat]

Just an update to my earlier comment here on my own 70hp evinrude, I did change the spark plugs, but I believe my issue was the gas tank heating up and pressurizing in the sun (to comical Balloon popping pressure). My last tank had a self relief air vent. My current does not. I started unscrewing the cap periodically in summer heat and all is running well.
​​​​​​

That cyl#1 plug boot was eating my lunch...and spark plugs. I may have been a bit too generous with the dielectric grease as well.

the new plug boots are sealed up tight and I now apply grease like a surgeon; thin and keep it off of the "spring" and electrode.

Are you now using one of the old school metal tanks? They're designed for you to crack the cap open and keep it that way when in use. All fuel tanks need a way to vent.

Hey thanks for the ride along on your water day with the family, looks like the weather was overcast but not too windy, I like those summer days :thumb:

Where's the pics of those cat daddys? :lol:

You're most welcome!

Ha...when we 1st put in there were whitecaps (outgoing tide with an opposing the wind). I made the mistake of going full bore through the chop and scared the carp out of my daughter.

Consequently we were capped at 10mph for the remainder of the day.

The admiral stopped by after work and I took her out and hammered it as soon as we hit the edge of the no wake zone. She played it cool but when we got home she said that she almost barfed :lol:

I got to "play" once the girls were back on land.

So i guess i'm going to need a kicker motor for my girls :lol:

sorry...no pics of the kittens

 

[Watermann]

:lol: my wife is squeamish too even in the dry ride Chief when there's rough water so I get it.

Hey the kitty cats at least count to get the skunk off the new boat. :happy:

 

[ctswf]

Are you now using one of the old school metal tanks? They're designed for you to crack the cap open and keep it that way when in use. All fuel tanks need a way to vent.

No my replacement is the same exact poly tank I had been using for many years. I think the difference must be the cap. Although I cannot see how it vents, the old one used to make a whistle noise periodically, I believe letting out air. The new one does not.

I'll try the old cap on the new tank.
​​​​​​​https://imgur.com/a/vUI4X4x

 

[laurentide]

No my replacement is the same exact poly tank I had been using for many years. I think the difference must be the cap. Although I cannot see how it vents, the old one used to make a whistle noise periodically, I believe letting out air. The new one does not.

I'll try the old cap on the new tank.
https://imgur.com/a/vUI4X4x

You can cut the rubber nipple that covers the vent inside the cap. The new tanks are ridiculous, they build enough pressure to push the reed valves in if you leave them connected to a 2 stroke.

 

[classiccat]

Well fellas...boat/motor have been performing great. ...but ya'll know I can't leave good enough alone :lol:

The cylinder2 plug threads were always questionable...i was checking in on things yesterday and finally I got the dreaded piece of thread come out with the plug.

I usually use save-a-thread inserts on small engines and they stay put most of the time...but I've been checking out Keen-serts...just need to find a source for them.

Anyways, I pull the head today and noticed some "white scoring" near the exhaust port on #1.

#1:

At 1st I thought maybe it was overheating...possibly a water leak in the exhaust manifold...but now i've convinced myself that its aluminum from the piston.

Now the decision, do I perform a complete tear-down assuming I can find all of the parts...and find a trustworthy machine shop if I need to go up 0.010 if the bores are out of spec.?

Or slap it back together with a new headgasket and rebuild over the winter months. :wacko:

 

[Watermann]

What was the compression on that cylinder? If still holding up it'll probably only go another 20 years like that.

When I pulled the leaking exhaust water cover off my 95 115 Merc, this is what I found it's 4 cylinders to look like. Still see the boring cross hatch. Moral of the story, there's nice motors out there on the cheap in great shape and would cost less than a rebuild.

 

[classiccat]

What was the compression on that cylinder? If still holding up it'll probably only go another 20 years like that.

When I pulled the leaking exhaust water cover off my 95 115 Merc, this is what I found it's 4 cylinders to look like. Still see the boring cross hatch. Moral of the story, there's nice motors out there on the cheap in great shape and would cost less than a rebuild.

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You have to admit that you found a diamond in the rough on that one! It's always a roll of the dice when buying used unless I can get one for next to nothing...or one that's rebuilt and warrantied.

IIRC compression was decent / matched when I did a soft overhaul of the engine 7 years ago...#'s probably in this thread somewhere :lol:

Yeah that's been the inner struggle...put another $500+ in for parts (pistons/rings/bearings/gaskets/seals) and then the machine shop work...assuming I need to go beyond a deglaze. I've rebuilt a several single cylinder 4 strokes so I'm comfortable doing the assembly work. I've got quite a bit invested in this thing already...something else to consider.

I'll measure the bore once I get a battery for my micrometer but I'm pretty sure the ring gap is excessive based on the amount of side-to-side play i'm getting; rings are worn &/or bore has opened up. We won't know until I remove the pistons.

 

[classiccat]

GA_Boater hasn't replied yet so I'm fearing that he's on his way up I95 to put his boot in my posterior :lol:

I was looking at old pics of the cylinders, this scoring doesn't appear to be new... Looking from the exhaust (in old pics), the #1 piston did have some light marring right near the exhaust port though.

I just checked compression (cold) this afternoon (1 - 2 - 3 are 136# - 133# - 135# respectively):

Needless to say, I won't be tearing this engine down for rebuild ...just yet.

I did fix the busted spark plug threads on #2 using a helicoil save-a-thread insert.

Here's my method that seems to hold up well to repeated spark plug removal.

Tap the hole using their special 2-stage tool. Drill press keeps it true; I used hardwood as a stand-off to avoid marring the head surface.

Clean the threads really well with brake cleaner.

Carefully apply antiseize on a spark plug thread and Red Loctite on outer threads of the insert.

I don't stake it just yet. I insert it into the head and torque it a little above spec (I use 25 ft lbs).

don't touch it for 24+ hrs and let the loctite cure.

The next day, remove the spark plug...i use my little impact driver (not wrench).

At this point, use the helicoil tool to stake the insert's teeth into the head aluminum.

thanks for stoppin by! :yo: ...and you can turn-around GAB :lol:

 

[GA_Boater]

:car: And I was pulling in your driveway with a nice Phantom Black Merc for ya! Maybe I'll find a nice tinnie needing Black On Back on the way home.

Nice plug thread fix. With those compression numbers I would keep running it, too. Gonna go out any more this year before buttoning up for the freeze? Check the scuffing again if you do. Then you can decide to work on it over Winter or not and check compression periodically next year.

I really don't think the scuffing is bad and with pinned rings that don't rotate in 2 strokes, not unusual.

 

[classiccat]

:car: And I was pulling in your driveway with a nice Phantom Black Merc for ya! Maybe I'll find a nice tinnie needing Black On Back on the way home.

Nice plug thread fix. With those compression numbers I would keep running it, too. Gonna go out any more this year before buttoning up for the freeze? Check the scuffing again if you do. Then you can decide to work on it over Winter or not and check compression periodically next year.

I really don't think the scuffing is bad and with pinned rings that don't rotate in 2 strokes, not unusual.

Oh man, I must've spoken too soon then...I can sure use a kicker motor with the girls constantly yelling at me to slow down! :boink: :lol: :lol:

Oh yeah...have alot of plans (again) for the fall...i'll be going out right up until the water turns hard. High-res endoscopes have really come down in price as well...poke in there from time to time and make sure we haven't picked up any new damage. "Scuffs" is a great description btw since you can't feel them with your fingernail. :thumb:

 

[GA_Boater]

Kicker? I had a max HP for a 18 footer SS in the back. That's if I looked at the right brochure. 140 rocking HP and good lookin' cuz it's Phantom Black! The girls would screaming to slow down. :lol:

Run her like you stole her until you're dodging icebergs. I would use a borescope, ya never know where an endoscope has been.

 

[classiccat]

Kicker? I had a max HP for a 18 footer SS in the back. That's if I looked at the right brochure. 140 rocking HP and good lookin' cuz it's Phantom Black! The girls would screaming to slow down. :lol:

Run her like you stole her until you're dodging icebergs. I would use a borescope, ya never know where an endoscope has been.

In 2020, bore-scope and endoscope are synonymous. :lol:

I went on 1 more hunt for old Murphy this evening...

I dropped the leg then stuffed some pieces of shop towel into each exhaust port:

Slapped the head back on, hooked up the garden hose up to the water-pipe for 10+ minutes.

all 3 pieces came out dry.