My First StarCraft; 1975 18' SuperSport

[Watermann]

I have the same set back with the CMC and AV (anti-ventilation) plate at 1" above on the V5. Both motors have ran perfect there, I can trim up until my motor hits it's max RPM with zero issues. I know they're higher HP but it should run good with your motor too.

 

[classiccat]

I have the same set back with the CMC and AV (anti-ventilation) plate at 1" above on the V5. Both motors have ran perfect there, I can trim up until my motor hits it's max RPM with zero issues. I know they're higher HP but it should run good with your motor too.

Thanks for confirming Agua! :thumb:

I spent the entire day of quarantine under the mammoth splashwell rewiring the CMC TNT circuit.

this is the pin-out for these 630 series relays.

Pin 30: Actuator Motor +
Pin 87: + Power
Pin 87a: -/ground Power
Pin 86: + Coil (switch)
Pin 85: -/ground Coil

This is that crimper in action. I get it started with just the connector, then feed the wire.

after a full squeeze:

then pull the wire/connector into the socket...there's a little nub on these connectors so it can only be pulled-in 1 way.

New wires/connectors for the motor cable:

I had this extra fuse block...perfect for this. Each of the TNT switches are fused. I used 2 of the terminals as a node for linking the 2 TNT switches (no fuse). It also gives me the opportunity to easily add flyback diodes later if I feel the need. Cathode would get connected to the Coil + (and anode to the -/ground bus).

I tested it with my tractor battery...lifts/lowers with some authority now. The only thing that I didn't change were the wires (12awg?) out to the actuator...and those wires were getting a little warm while my 10awg were cool as a cucumber.

I hope that takes out some of the mystery if you're rewiring your CMC TNT! :yo:

 

[GA_Boater]

Good move replacing the pins in the connectors. The tangs get beat up and aren't that strong to begin with.

 

[classiccat]

Happy 6th Birthday to my thread :lol:

I mounted the cowl for the occasion ...and to finally figure out what I want to do with it.

IMHO, it would be a crime to strip and paint 45 years of battle scars.

I'll try to remove any scuffs, maybe do some light touch-ups...but mainly just wax and shine.

appleo had asked me a few questions in PM however i can't seem to draft a reply due to a flashing marquee at the bottom of my PM screen.

a few questions

1 horizontal distance from inside bow deck lip to pedestal center? see photo

was this good choice or should it be longer or shorter? enough leg room?

The Horizontal distance is 23" from the center of the pedestal to the bow header.

I spent quite a bit of time laying-out and fabricating this deck. Plenty of leg room for me (5'10).

I mostly anchor fish in rivers and this bow deck was designed for:

• 2 full grown adults retrieving / emptying a gillnet
• retrieving a 25# richter anchor in heavy current
• throwing a 20' cast net.
• posing for pictures holding massive fish :madgrin: :lol:

2 those square gray hatches. are they weight bearing?

they are very sturdy and I added perimeter reinforcement in the form of aluminum U-channel (go back a few pages in my thread for details.)

The models i used are:
Tempress Dark Gray 1115 Cam Hatch Without Lock, 10.75 X 15 X 1.5

Tempress Dark Gray 1317 Cam Hatch Without Lock, 13 X 17.25 X 1.5

3. what’s all the round floor hatches for?

My hull had alot of corrosion. These ports give me access to all of the limber holes to ensure that they're clear of debris and that I'm getting good drainage.

4. do you use leaning post or captains chair in bow? pedestal height?

I'm using the same chair as the other 4. (Wise Blastoff) however a leaning post can be used as well. The bow pedestal height is 13".

 

[GA_Boater]

arty:

Use this Watermann link for PMs, I don't click the one by my name anymore - https://forums.iboats.com/privatemessage/list/77810/1

A Rat Rod or Rat Motor. Actually it doesn't look bad at all.

 

[classiccat]

arty:

Use this Watermann link for PMs, I don't click the one by my name anymore - https://forums.iboats.com/privatemessage/list/77810/1

A Rat Rod or Rat Motor. Actually it doesn't look bad at all.

Exactly! In the vintage tractor circles, original patina seems to outshine something that just came back from powder coat...although beauty is in the eye of the beholder I suppose.

I was curious if it would look out of place against the new hull paint as well as the leg/bottom cowl.

It does have some exposed fiberglass on one corner that I'll seal-up/patch...then do some creative blending to match the rest.

 

[GA_Boater]

The rat rod guys spray with satin or flat clear coat over surface rust and faded/abraded paint to preserve the look.

 

[appleo]

Happy 6th Birthday to my thread :lol:

I mounted the cowl for the occasion ...and to finally figure out what I want to do with it.

IMHO, it would be a crime to strip and paint 45 years of battle scars.

I'll try to remove any scuffs, maybe do some light touch-ups...but mainly just wax and shine.

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i.imgur.com\/gfFFATA.jpg"**[/IMG2]


appleo had asked me a few questions in PM however i can't seem to draft a reply due to a flashing marquee at the bottom of my PM screen.



The Horizontal distance is 23" from the center of the pedestal to the bow header.

I spent quite a bit of time laying-out and fabricating this deck. Plenty of leg room for me (5'10).

I mostly anchor fish in rivers and this bow deck was designed for:

• 2 full grown adults retrieving / emptying a gillnet
• retrieving a 25# richter anchor in heavy current
• throwing a 20' cast net.
• posing for pictures holding massive fish :madgrin: :lol:

they are very sturdy and I added perimeter reinforcement in the form of aluminum U-channel (go back a few pages in my thread for details.)

The models i used are:
Tempress Dark Gray 1115 Cam Hatch Without Lock, 10.75 X 15 X 1.5

Tempress Dark Gray 1317 Cam Hatch Without Lock, 13 X 17.25 X 1.5




My hull had alot of corrosion. These ports give me access to all of the limber holes to ensure that they're clear of debris and that I'm getting good drainage.


I'm using the same chair as the other 4. (Wise Blastoff) however a leaning post can be used as well. The bow pedestal height is 13".

Thanks for info. my 1985 restoration is ongoing and in the iboats restoration forum this week

Ready to mount my seat bases and cut bowhatches

 

[Watermann]

Happy Birthday thread! :bounce:

Not painting... is like having a date with an old dress that hasn't been washed in a few decades. :eyebrows:

 

[classiccat]

Happy Birthday thread! :bounce:

Not painting... is like having a date with an old dress that hasn't been washed in a few decades. :eyebrows:

Guys, I must have brain worms b/c this thread is not 6 years old...but 7! :facepalm:

I hear ya on the cowl painting. Decals are still intact without any fading and the forward facing "E" emblem is mint.

Maybe I'll only paint the gold top-section since I have to do some repairs there anyway...and go from there.

If I don't like it (i'm probably my worst critic), i'll go scorched earth baby! :madgrin: :flame:

 

[GA_Boater]

It's the virus situation, CC. It addled your noggin. :smile:

I know one thing - If you go scorched earth, with your attention to detail there is a chance you may not splash this year.

Does the motor run? Yeah, a real basic question that you might have answered 7 years ago. I'm senile, you young whippersnapper. LOL

 

[classiccat]

It's the virus situation, CC. It addled your noggin. :smile:

I know one thing - If you go scorched earth, with your attention to detail there is a chance you may not splash this year.

Does the motor run? Yeah, a real basic question that you might have answered 7 years ago. I'm senile, you young whippersnapper. LOL

You guys know me too well! I'm trying to limit my OCD's to mechanical/electrical at this point. We'll never finish if we give them a seat at the cosmetic table (example: look at how long polishing set me back!)

The motor did run and quite well in the driveway on August 10, 2013 :lol:

After correcting a leaky exhaust manifold and adapter plate, I ran & winterized on September 1, 2013.

I've turned it over / re-fogged on a few occasions since then.

 

[GA_Boater]

I'll give you a pass on polishing. You moved in Year 2 or was it Year 3, maybe Year 4. Told ya I'm senile - Did you even move?

 

[Watermann]

I shouldn't talk, the 115 Merc I put on my SS was good enough too, not yet to the point of needing a total paint job. I did find a cool new emblem for it though. Raised gel filled Mercury God, was for motors in mines age bracket.

 

[classiccat]

I'll give you a pass on polishing. You moved in Year 2 or was it Year 3, maybe Year 4. Told ya I'm senile - Did you even move?

You and me both brotha GaB!

Here's a rough chronology with this old tub (the boat):

2013: deconstruction, motor restoration, fixing structural damage
2014: new transom, knee brace, spray rail patch, trailer. (alot of fixing up the old house for sale)
2015: Relocation (boat lived on my buddies property while we got settled)
2016: Keel cladding and started sanding/polishing. (Busy restoring property/landscaping/house deck.)
2017: not much besides a little sanding. (Still busy restoring house deck...flipped 2x6 deck every board, sanded and stained...saved a ton of resto $$ doing that).
2018: Polished the exterior. (finally finished house deck and prepped Silverado for sale.)
2019: Put the hammer down on boat project after restoring tractor. Subdeck & outer chine support through 95% of the interior work
2020: don't get SICK!

^^^ rehabbed about 7 or 8 snowblowers in there as well

I shouldn't talk, the 115 Merc I put on my SS was good enough too, not yet to the point of needing a total paint job. I did find a cool new emblem for it though. Raised gel filled Mercury God, was for motors in mines age bracket.

Oh man, that's a wicked decal! Yeah black outboards are straightforward and I think hold up better over time cosmetically.

You may recall that I restored everything but the cowl on this outboard (gold).

I'll try to color match some of the little scratches, and likely repaint the top.

 

[GA_Boater]

2020: don't get SICK!

Most important year!

Is the black a decal or paint? Can't tell if bubbling on the by the emblem corner is decal or paint in the last pic.

 

[classiccat]

Most important year!

Is the black a decal or paint? Can't tell if bubbling on the by the emblem corner is decal or paint in the last pic.

Hey Ga...it's actually a dark blue decal on the body of the cowl however It looks like paint around the raised emblem..i'll have to take a closer look.

Change of topic, I can't find anything in any corner of the internet that says how to rewire this all-in-one actuator buried in this CMC unit.

I can hear it... "Why does classiccat want to remove the actuator?" you ask? I wanted to inspect the business end of that actuator motor...and also run good 10awg cable out to it. Lastly, make sure everything is sealed-up tight since this thing sees alot of water! (dumb place to put an electric motor if you ask me).

To remove, I knocked out the bottom spring pin (goes through the RAM) with a 1/2" pilot punch and the trusty riveting hammer (but at 90psi).

For the top 1/2" spring pin, there are 2 set screws that you have to 1st loosen...I removed completely and sprayed some penetrating oil in the holes.

I didn't need to raise the motor or anything...the top pin I had to drive from the port side since the holes in the 2 plate sections don't line-up perfectly. I was able to fit the entire punch inside of the CMC cavity and drive it externally with a long reach air chisel bit.

with the right pin punch and a riveting hammer, the pins come out beautifully and can be reused.

The black cap you see on the top with the strain relief sticking out is actually the brush holder.

^^^ the brushes and commutator look great...lots of meat left and they move freely in their respective holders. I gave the commutator a little cleaning.

The straight relief on there is stinking aluminum so be gentle with it.

 

[GA_Boater]

CC - Most TnT motors in the same place except for I/Os and old Merc outboards, getting splashed by water.

Is the motor 2 wire or 3 wire? Both are below,

2 Wire




3 Wire

 

[classiccat]

CC - Most TnT motors in the same place except for I/Os and old Merc outboards, getting splashed by water.

so you agree with me that newer TNT designs are goofy :lol: :boink:
(EDIT: newer CMC's are extra goofy since you're out a $400+ integrated actuator rather than just replacing a pump)

It's a 2-wire. The relay commons (Motor) are normally tied to negative/ground until energized.

When the UP relay coil is energized, power is supplied to the motor by the UP relay while the DOWN relay provides a path to negative/ground.

Conversely when the DOWN relay coil is energized, power to the motor is supplied by the DOWN relay while the UP relay provides a path to negative/ground.

 

[GA_Boater]

Do I agree? Meh!

Thanks for refreshing how to reverse a DC motor. Just like the 2 wire diagram and like the DC motors I worked on except they used vacuum tube amps instead of relays. :wink: Wonder if blue and green wires have have any significance? :lol:



Just