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Re: My first boat restoration, I need some guidance - PLEASE HELP!
Wood, That makes perfect sense. Thanks. I really like that idea.
Decker, Thanks for the 2 cents. You are so right, the boats age and the fact that it is still in one piece despite the attempts that appear to have been made to sink it - worrying about water channels is way over kill. I still might follow Woods suggestion as I don't like the thought of not accounting for water flow and then selling it to someone else at some point. Last thing I need is some yuppie kid 40 yrs from now bad mouthing the woman that rebuilt the boat and did not account for the water that would eventually get below the deck. :rant:
Jig, I am using the epoxy and I have to say I am LOVIN IT! No horrible odor and seems easy to work with for the most part. I am thinking I might have to try making some other projects out of epoxy! You see I love alligators and crocs and I want them decoratively placed about my yard. I have 1 so far but did not make it. This is definitely a project for the new house!
TDF, Thanks for the info. I have not read the entire article yet, but I will finish it tonight or tomorrow. I like getting all these facts so my fan club is impressed when I spew it back to them. Dang they are gonna miss me, and I them. I have never had a fan club before. I feel like a star.
Thanks so much for all the 2 Cents, keep this up and I will be able to buy a fish locator for my boat!
2lb foam is all you need. If you want to create drainage channels to the bilge I'd use saran wrapped rope. Lay the rope in the hull and out throu through the pour holes in the front of the deck. Pour the foam in each section and just as it sets up put the rope out which will create a channel.to the bilge. Hope this makes sense. Just my 2?.
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Wood, That makes perfect sense. Thanks. I really like that idea.
I don't think that just any paint would water proof the foam after it has been cut. Latex water paint may not work to well..
If you plan out how you want to use the foam, you should be able to pour the foam in the hull and be able to use a temporary deck if needed.. Then make whatever changes you need to the foam and put down the deck and glass it in.
The boat is 42 yrs old now. How long did the stringers and transom last? How long do you plan on owning this boat?
If you do a good job on glassing the transom and stringers and deck it will last another 30 yrs with no problems by just pouring your foam with no special drains or channels in the foam.
Just my 2 cents worth..:wave:
Decker, Thanks for the 2 cents. You are so right, the boats age and the fact that it is still in one piece despite the attempts that appear to have been made to sink it - worrying about water channels is way over kill. I still might follow Woods suggestion as I don't like the thought of not accounting for water flow and then selling it to someone else at some point. Last thing I need is some yuppie kid 40 yrs from now bad mouthing the woman that rebuilt the boat and did not account for the water that would eventually get below the deck. :rant:
Cuts on closed cell foam can be fixed by painting over the cut to make it waterproof again, 2 coats of paint and you're good to go again... epoxy resin will work well too.
Jig, I am using the epoxy and I have to say I am LOVIN IT! No horrible odor and seems easy to work with for the most part. I am thinking I might have to try making some other projects out of epoxy! You see I love alligators and crocs and I want them decoratively placed about my yard. I have 1 so far but did not make it. This is definitely a project for the new house!
Yes closed cell foam is what you want to use. However, maybe I wasn't clear. If you use pour in foam, which is closed cell, then you cut, slice, puncture, or drill into that foam you open the cells. The skin that forms while curing is what closes off all the cells.
That being said, most would be way better off pouring a thousand golfball sized blobs of this stuff than one huge 2-3-4 cup mix. This would keep 98% of the smaller "balls" of foam totally intact and not allow water intrusion. The problem is that it is completely impractical and way too time consuming.
Snowman, I was clear the on the potential to remove waterproofing by any puncturing to the surface of pour mold. I like the idea of making many small balls that could be used. Maybe that could be a project next year too. What do you think I could make off selling those little balls to boat restorers, guys in general, carnies :juggle: or kids prepping for a snowball fight? :smow:
My dad built a 22 foot cuddy from the keel up and used the 2lb foam. This is the foam generally used for floatation. The 4lb is a bit more dense and is generally used for building molds/plugs. I have been using the 2lb for duck decoys for 30 years.
It is your duck decoy that makes me think I could make an alligator mold from the epoxy. Thanks
If you cut open a section of the pour in, the pink, and the blue foam you will see that the cells of the pink and blue foam are tiny compared to the pour in stuff. You can place pieces of all 3 in a 5 gallon bucket and just let it sit. The results might surprise... I will never use pour in foam in a boat again.
You can read more here but that answers one of your questions. The heavier/denser the foam the more structural support you'll get but you lose some in flotation value.
TDF, Thanks for the info. I have not read the entire article yet, but I will finish it tonight or tomorrow. I like getting all these facts so my fan club is impressed when I spew it back to them. Dang they are gonna miss me, and I them. I have never had a fan club before. I feel like a star.
Thanks so much for all the 2 Cents, keep this up and I will be able to buy a fish locator for my boat!



