My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Corjen1

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Arch, I have not called dupont, the only thing I can think is it was a bad batch, either the catalyst or base...its a chemical reaction to cure.....should have went. I am going down to the dealer tomorrow, well see if they will replace it.
 

Corjen1

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Well Im back to where I was 3 days ago....WOOHOO!!!

Finished sanding the crappy primer off....re filled areas that needed it...and got to shoot some good primer!!














That it for today and the next couple....family obligations. Have a great night!!
 
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Corjen1

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Almost ready to spray final layer of primer, what should I take the surface to in prep for paint? 2, 4, 800 grit, steel wool?

Also, since paint is on my mind, Base/Clear, or single stage?

the entire hull will be white except around the spear tip and the transom.....shown here...





the top does have a stripe in white, but I was thinking of a vinyl decal for this....



On the Bow, it has 2 white patches also, the center portion is white pleated vinyl





As for the red....Im thinking corvette red...

Should I paint the hull completely, or just do the white for now, and then do the red portions after its together with the top on it?

thank for your thoughts in advanced...
 
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archbuilder

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If you are doing more than one color, I would use a base clear urethane. I had to be talked into it by the guys at the paint shop, I used to do all single stage. I was glad they talked me into it. I also used a sealer on mine before I painted it. I sprayed it on, let it flash, then put on the color coats. They dry really fast, almost like a lacquer. Once you have them on, you just shoot the clear, man it looks sexy! It makes for a very long day, and you need to have your ducks in a row, but worth it. I had a helper, which I would recommend. Also make sure you buy some good green 3m tape to layout the stripes or color transition's. It is very expensive, but so is the paint. make sure when you tape off a color, that everything is taped tight. the overspray has a way of getting through poor tape jobs.
 

archbuilder

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by the way 800 is sounding way to smooth to me. I think I took mine down to 400. If you get it too smooth, the paint won't have enough tooth to bond. Again I would consult the directions on the paint. Steel wool has no place in this application, great for wood, not so much for automotive paint!
 

Corjen1

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If you are doing more than one color, I would use a base clear urethane. I had to be talked into it by the guys at the paint shop, I used to do all single stage. I was glad they talked me into it. I also used a sealer on mine before I painted it. I sprayed it on, let it flash, then put on the color coats. They dry really fast, almost like a lacquer. Once you have them on, you just shoot the clear, man it looks sexy! It makes for a very long day, and you need to have your ducks in a row, but worth it. I had a helper, which I would recommend. Also make sure you buy some good green 3m tape to layout the stripes or color transition's. It is very expensive, but so is the paint. make sure when you tape off a color, that everything is taped tight. the over spray has a way of getting through poor tape jobs.

Thanks Arch, forgive me if I sound dumb here, I know very little about the process.....if im following you....final prime, (which im going to use the same primer, just in white on the hull) wet sanded to 400, primer sealer (sanded or just flashed?), base color (x2 or 3 coats) (no sanding in between coats?) then shoot clear...( how many clear coats, no sanding in between?)

Thanks again for the help...
 

archbuilder

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Ok, I'm speaking generically, not knowing the exact products you are using. If you have a good paint store, they guys there should be able to give you some specifics....if all else fails read the instructions! I like to shoot a coat of sealer on right before the paint. Usually on your final sand on the primer you burn through to the primer here and there. The sealer just covers up everything and gives you a nice single color base (usually light gray). I think I used a urethane on Miss Morgan. Then you let it flash.....which means spray it on, then let it "dry". More or less you should be able to stick your finger on an area you have taped off, and no paint sticks to your finger. Same thing for between coats of paint. I think I let my sealer flash for about 15 minutes or so. (the sealer may give you a time at 70 degrees also). The important thing to understand is the sealer, paint and clear are going to chemically bond, since they are still green. If you let one of them set over night, you will have to sand them to get a mechanical bond. You don't want to do that! So get ready for a long day! After the sealer flashes, apply your first color. I typically do the accent color or stripe color. Don't tape off the are where the field color goes, just let it bleed over on to it. Depending on the color and if it is a metallic 2 to 3 coats. Just make sure you don't have any light spots. The last coat of a metallic should be "fogged on".....hold the gun back a little father than normal. This will help you to avoid stripes in the metallic. Let that coat flash or tack up, same thing different term. The base will try super fast, but it should set about 30 minutes or so. Then you can tape off the area where you want the accent color. Use the 3M green tape, its expensive, but so is the paint. Make sure you get all of the tape seams nice and tight, if you don't the overspray will find a way through! Next shoot your field color. Let it tack up, then take the paper off the accent. Clear everything, I did 3 coats on Miss Morgan. Careful, the clear is a lot more likely to run. Just put on nice even wet coats. If you do get a run in the clear, you can wet sand it out (carefully) later. Don't try to "fix it" while its wet....you will just make a bigger mess! I did the bottom of mine, flipped it over and taped it off (I actuall taped from the hull to the floor all the way around) then shot the top. So two long days, lol!
 

ahmincha

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Hi corj I have only painted a couple of things and bought my paint from Napa. They gave me spec sheets with the paint that had all the info on them about the paint. mixing ratios flash times recoat windows everything I needed to know to do it right
 

archbuilder

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You really should get a helper if you can get someone to volunteer!
 
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Corjen1

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Thanks guys, it will be a few weeks yet, just trying to get my mind wrapped around the process....

Ive been reading some tech sheets, can you explain what this means regarding spray pressure:

Conventional:
Siphon Feed: 40-70 PSI at the gun.
Pressure Feed: 40- 0 PSI at the gun.
(8-12 PSI Fluid Flow on the pot)
HVLP: 8 - 10 PSI at the air cap.

How do you measure at the cap? on my set up, I have a gauge/regulator on the compressor, and one on the inlet to the gun.....Iset them up to have the coret pressure under load...


Can you explain what this means exactly regarding application: Spray medium wet coat, allow to tack, then follow with a full wet coat


Is this saying that you could mix 401-20 in and not clear coat?: Integrated Clear: To enhance depth of color and provide a custom look, Ful-Thane 401-20 Integrated 2K Urethane clear may be used. Mix one quart of catalyzed and reduced 401-20 with one quart of catalyzed and reduced color. Both are mixed 8:1:2.

Thanks again.....here is the tech sheet

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...68911936,d.aWw
 
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archbuilder

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That sounds like a single stage paint, not a base clear. this is the system I used on Miss Morgan
 
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Corjen1

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Not too much going on at the moment......, ordered my spray gun, instead of getting the 3 gun kit, I just got the gun and a separate fluid nozzle. It came with a 1.4, I ordered a 1.8mm for primer.

Also, my DA shot craps last time I was sanding, so I got another one from harbor freight today, I figure they are good enough.....got 8 years out of the last one...

Hopefully I will be able to shoot last coat of primer next weekend, using the same primer but in white...Have a good weekend!!!!
 

Corjen1

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I did get a bit done Sunday.....got the entire hull sanded with 320 grit......







So I think im ready for the final coat of primer, the question is, if I sand through the primer as shown above, does that mean another coat? or is this the purpose of primer sealer?
 

Woodonglass

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It should ALL be Primer Color, but you don't have shoot the entire hull, just the bleed through areas.:joyous:
 

Corjen1

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Thanks WOG!! I was a feared of that.... they are all where I got heavy handed with the DA.
 

archbuilder

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I wouldn't worry about the burn those spots. You can prime them if you want, Miss Morgan looked a lot like that. The sealer coat will give you a uniform base. I have seen cars and trucks painted that were 3 or 4 colors of paint and primer.
 

GT1000000

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Yep, your choice...
You can spot prime the burn throughs or not...
Like Arch mentioned, if you use a sealer coat, then you will be good to go...
Definitely gonna look sexy:thumb:
:D
 
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