MFG rebuild getting started pics

[Woodonglass]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

That's a bubble roller. Sounds to me like you're using too much resin. Cut back on the resin and see what happens. No need to glass under the bow. Sand the inside paint as best you can and feather any edges and you'll be fine. On the bow "Pools" I'd drill a drain hole and glue in some pvc pipe to allow the water to flow out when the boat is Bow UP!!

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Thanks again Wood. Its gunna be few weeks until I can get the nidabond for transom so I,m going to do what I can until then.
I got a question or two . On prep for top cap the small screw holes should I just sand the the hole or should I grind a little divit to receive the PB ?? Also there are broken off screws in the deck should those be drilled out or just ground down ? there is also some stress cracks on deck it has factory texture. If I glass the deck I will loose texture , any way to create texture?

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Hey sp ...... your moving right along with your project .... looks good. I'll let the experts answer your questions but IMHO I would remove those broken screws. They don't look like they are ss because of the rust so I would drill, punch or pull them out or they will continue to rust and may bleed thru your paint later. Not really sure that can happen but I wouldn't take the chance. Keep up the good work.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

I would definetly remove any and all screws nails etc. I'd use a dremel to divot out the holes a bit and then acetone em and fill with fairing material. You can make your own from Resin & Microballons or use 3M's Premium Marine filler. Trying to duplicate that texture would be next to impossible IMHO. I'd dremmel out the cracks fill with a runny mixture of PB ( mix to the consistency of Ketchup). I contemplated using a textured paint roller on my deck when I painted it with Rustoleum with Hardener but I did not do it. It might work but I'd practice on some plywood first to see how it turns out. I think the grey one looks pretty close to being your texture. You Might even be able to roll the resin and get the texture since it's consistency is like ketchup. If you hit it just as it was gelling and setting up it might keep the texture without flowing back to smooth.

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Thanks for the tips guys!
After removing rusted screws and repairing stress cracks in deck should I mat the whole deck? And if so ,will I need to grind down all of gell coat ? I was hoping I would not have to glass it but I will if you think its needed..
And by the way Wood I have been checking out your flamingo project and WOW is there anything you can,t do! The paint and seats look great and thats a smart looken grandkidd you got there!
See you later S.P.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Yeah the one thing I can't do it shake this stinking Bronchitis and get back to work on my boat!!!!!! Thanks for your kind words. You're doin some fine work yourself. About your texture you can also put sand in your paint to get some texture too. On mine I put down the first coat, sprinkled sand while it was wet, broomed off what didn't stick and then rolled on another coat. Not to bad but still not exactly what I was looking for. We'll see how it holds up. Course the "Blue Flamingo" will be Pampered so it'll probably be fine.

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Ok, here is my attempt to reinstall bow eye. I,m not quite sure how to do this but here goes..
First thing make template of bow curve and trace on piece of yellow pine ..

cut with jig saw . (wish Ihad a band or scroll saw)

Grind down edges until you get a good fit..

Cut down 2x6 make sure to leave about 1-1/2 inches of wood left at bow eye location
then I cut 2 filler pieces of 3/4 plywood and screwed to sides of center 2x. Keep grinding
away until snug fit..

Laminate plywood to both sides with CSM between both pieces then saturate all sides and edges
with resin.

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

I,m going to apply CSM on curved side of wood next. I installed layer of glass on bow area.

I guess from there some thick PB to glue in place and glass to hull..It seems like a lot of wood
but I,m reinstalling the lift ring to bow eye with eye mounting rod and also lagged into new wood.

Back at it tomorrow.
S.P.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

That's about as good as it gets. Now mix up some PB and install it and fillet it in. then two layers of CSM and a last layer of 1708 and yer DUN!!!!

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Question Wood.. How much cabosil and millings per oz. of resin? and what should I fillet with? I have on hand the biaxle cloth US Comp site said it good strength . And I also have woven..

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Use the PB to fillet (make a cove like caulking the bathtub) around the edges of the insert. 1/2 Qt should be about right and I'd use a Heaping tablespoon of 1/4" Chopped fibers and add cabosil until it's the consistency of creamy peanutbutter on the thin side. A little thicker than Mayonaise. R U using epoxy? I can't remember. If you are you don't need the fibers. if you're using epoxy then a layer of the Biax should be all you need.

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

A half QT of resin ? Don,t mean to be a pain I just wanted to be sure thats what you mean... I.m using poly..
Thanks!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Yep, 1/2 qt or resin. Poly use the fibers. You Have to put CSM down first before you put any kind of Biax or Woven down. It just won't work without it. 2 layers of CSM and then the Biax and you're good to go. Each layer a couple inches larger than the previous one. As soon as one layer is down lay then next. You should be able to install that in 30 minutes. PB will set up in 15 minutes. Duct tape it in place till it sets. Cut your CSM and Biax while you're letting it set up then mix some resin and apply the tabbing. That's the last 15 mins. DONE!

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Well I got the wood installed for the bow eye today . I think it turned out ok . It took me longer than 30 minutes though .. I guess I,ll need more practice! The first batch of PB was a little to loose 1/2 a qt. I got the second batch about 8 oz much better..

I made a couple of forms out of pvc pipe and filled with PB gunna use this later for transom spacers.

And here it is after glass.

I,m starting to get more comfortable working with the glass
Gotta get more resin!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

That is an excellent job on the bow eye piece.

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Good work on that bow eye sp ...... great job!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Yep, nice job on the bow eye backing! Are you going to drill over-sized bolt holes, fill w/ epoxy & redrill, or stuff the bolt hole full of 5200 to waterproof the hole?

Either way, the new wood backing you put in will certainly hold the bow eye fast for a long long time

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

I,m not sure yet I,ll probably use the 5200 jbc. I have this eye but it says rated for 500 lbs. I may get another one like it and use them for the stern and get a stronger one for the bow.

I cut my spacers for transom .

Then installed them like Archbuilder did on his transom.

 

[sphelps]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Ok , I,m just doing some odds and ends for now. I want to start doing some prep work on top cap. What grit paper should I start with ? Is wet sanding to early in the process?
Thanks S.P.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: MFG rebuild getting started pics

Ok , I,m just doing some odds and ends for now. I want to start doing some prep work on top cap. What grit paper should I start with ? Is wet sanding to early in the process?
Thanks S.P.

It depends. If the top cap just has general scratches and nothing to bad I'd use 100 grit for the first pass and 180 for the last. Acetone wash it and then Two coats of primer wet sanding in between.