Starkonian
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2009
- Messages
- 156
Question for someone who has a circuit breaker hooked up within their battery box. What did you get and how do you have it mounted...pics?
Question for someone who has a circuit breaker hooked up within their battery box. What did you get and how do you have it mounted...pics?
Mine is on the way. I got a 60 Amp for the Minn Kota Endura Max 55 as recommended by them. I got mine from a friend in CA, he bought one before he bought his TM but ended up getting a gas motor instead, so he is sending me his for cost of shipping and letting him keep a flashlight that I left there (he wanted it and the price is equal). I think I am going to just use mounting screws and mount it to the outside of the battery box because in mine there is hardly any room except for the top and that isnt a good idea. Plus its water proof (mine is at least).
Thanks. My box is very cluttered as it is and I'm trying to figure out how I'll get one to fit with the least amount of clutter and ease of attaching the motor leads. I saw this on which connects right to the positive screw post which doesn't require a other wire connection from the breaker to the battery. It's more expensive than the basic one off of ebay tho.
Question for someone who has a circuit breaker hooked up within their battery box. What did you get and how do you have it mounted...pics?
I like the concept and it would free up clutter. I do not like the auto reset feature. I would rather have a manual reset so I can a) determine the cause of the over amperage and b) I would rather be able to reset than have it reset while checking the motor out (these are just my opinions though). the one you linked to is either a 40 or 50 amp breaker, not sure (can not remember what your TM is) what yours calls for but mine (Minn Kota Endura Max 55) is 60 amp (Minn Kota recommendation). If it was manual and 60 amp I would jump on it because it a) only requires one wire splice (instead of 2 like mine, i.e. two splices on the positive cable), the less splices= less possible problems and resistance and b) it would be easy to mount and less clutter. Once again, my personal opinion for what thats worth
Am I missing something?
For two and a half years my batteries have been on my boat, uncovered, deluged almost every trip by torrential Scottish weather to zero ill effect. I don't even cover it in a plastic bag. I've even connected the wrong cable points to the battery to zero ill effect.
So why spend money on a circuit breaker and battery box?
Am I missing something?
For two and a half years my batteries have been on my boat, uncovered, deluged almost every trip by torrential Scottish weather to zero ill effect. I don't even cover it in a plastic bag. I've even connected the wrong cable points to the battery to zero ill effect.
So why spend money on a circuit breaker and battery box?
I never had a breaker either. But reportedly you can fry the motor without one and/or cause a fire. I'd re-think not keeping the battery in a box. That's illegal here in the States. Batteries emit fumes which are highly combustable. If you mistakenly arc a post, your battery could become a bomb exploding acid everywhere. You've been lucky so far but...
Btw, I've contacted Minn Kota re: the tillar handle issue. I'll let you know what transpires.
Hi Scottish,
There are two reasons I will use the circuit breaker, 1) I bought the TM new and the manual recommends it and I believe it could be a warranty issue is one is not used (I do not believe they can prove I used one or I can prove I did/didn't but at least I will know I did ) and 2) I go into a lot of areas that have a lot of weeds/brush etc... and if the prop gets tangled up in it it could cause the motor to run the amps up trying to get out and burn it up. It's basically a good precaution and semi cheap for protecting a $300 plus investment. Will it happen? probably not but if it does.... Its not the water on the batteries its the prop getting hung up etc... which in my areas are a good probability. Also, I believe that a battery box is required or at least a protection bag.....
I also fish in weedy areas and even plow through lilly pads no problem with my Minn Kota Weedless Wedge prop replacement.
If you don't have one of these I recommend as it not only minces the water plants, it seems to give more thrust too. Just make sure you get the right size for your engine.
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Acces...essories/Replacement-Props/Replacement-Props/
There's a graph on their site somewhere to help you match you engine to the right prop, definitely worth the money, and your original prop becomes your emergency spare.
Damn, I sound like one of their reps. Hey Minn Kota! Your Tiller handles suck! Fix it!
Minn Kota Spokesman Scottish LOL
I do have the "Weedless" Prop but haven't put it on yet. Do you think the thrust is better?
I keep hearing about the Tiler handles but have not had any issues yet. I ran it hard these last few times and yanked on it once hard when I was going a little too fast into a turn around and hit another boat's wake, and pulled myself back from falling :-( Is this an issue with their older TMs or all?
Thanks Scottish for the information and advice. When I lift or tilt the TM I usual grab the back of the housing with one hand and the other on the tiler but I will do as you say and not put any pressure on the tiler.
Still dying to get over there and explore that castle you mentioned maybe I can talk the wife into taking a vacation to there, I wonder how the airlines would react to me trying to check my boat and TM, plus scuba and detecting gear (I guess I could rent the boat and scuba gear).
More on circuit breakers...
[h=1]GUIDE TO CIRCUIT BREAKERS[/h] [h=3]Fuse and Circuit Breaker Overview[/h]Circuit breakers are not only great insurance for protecting your new motor, but they are also required by the Coast Guard for ungrounded current-carrying condutors. If a prop is caught on an underwater object (rock, log, thick weeds, etc) and prevented from rotating, the motor will respond by using more and more power from the battery in an attempt to turn the shaft. If this goes on for too long, the high level of current will permanently damage the motor, usually resulting in a completely totaled motor.
A trolling motor circuit breaker is designed to "trip" at a certain amperage, which breaks the circuit and prevents the motor from overloading and damaging itself. At between $20 and $40, they are significantly cheaper than purchasing a brand new motor! Circuit breakers come in varying amperages, and you want one that has an amperage rating (or amperage trip point) that is just above the amperage draw of your motor at max speed.
Both Minn Kota and MotorGuide make their own breakers that are rated to break at an amperage level above what their motors draw. As just about all Minn Kota motors pull less than 60 amps at full speed, the Minn Kota circuit breaker is rated at 60 amps. The reasoning is that if 60 amps is being drawn from the Minn Kota motor, it's operating above the level it was designed for, and should be tripped. MotorGuide's motors are mostly rated for 50 amp breakers. The exception are the MotorGuide Xi5 80 series, which require 60 amp circuit breakers.
Do you have to get a brand-specific circuit breaker? Definitely not. As long as the breaker is rated for a level slightly above the maximum amperage rating for your motor your should be just fine.
And yes I will admit it, those do look suspiciously like famous last words.
If I were you this is what I would do. And this applies to Scotland or there.
Do some research and locate bodies of water that were created before the advent of metal detectors. I'm talking hydro electric lakes and lochs.
This immediately establishes those areas where no land lubbers metal detector has gone before.
Once you have a list of locations, research those for historical significance, nearby settlements or perhaps even medieval villages that were flooded when the lakes were created. You then dive those waters looking for booty knowing you're likely to be the first.
One of the freshwater lochs I fish was created in the 1800's. Before that it was just a regular river, one whose original path you can still locate on the sonar.
However I happen to know there was a nearby Roman settlement. Put the two together and you have a loch that could very well turn up Roman items that were stashed or lost on the original river banks long before it was filled in.
I rarely cross that loch in my M4 without pondering what might lie beneath.
I noticed the extra thrust and so did friends, however. I suspect the Kota props are made of a plastic designed to avoid cracking but instead lose tiny pieces instead. This means it will shrink over time. Anyone else noticed this?
So it's possible my original prop had shrunk a little over time and had lost some thrust as as result, making it seem like the Weedless Wedge was superior. Make sense? So either I am imagining this prop shrink of the Weedless Wedge rules. I await others input on the subject.
As regards the 'killer tiller.' In my opinion it's a basic design flaw and for all I know applies to other manufacturers with similar designs.
I think - and maybe Stark can back me up on this - the problem develops over time from pulling on the handle to lift the engine out of the water when going ashore. The components connecting the tiller to the unit are just not strong enough for this. Fix it MInn Kota, fix it!!!
And so when I lift the engine these days, I reach back to grip the back of the main housing and pull it up from there, thus minimizing pressure on the handle.
I suspect if I had done this from the get go the issue of the handle coming free from the unit might never have developed.
So I suggest you adopt this method right now and keep as much pressure off the handle as possible and with luck you'll never have the same problem.