Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

Starkonian

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
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Question for someone who has a circuit breaker hooked up within their battery box. What did you get and how do you have it mounted...pics?
 

IN Mariner4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
104
Question for someone who has a circuit breaker hooked up within their battery box. What did you get and how do you have it mounted...pics?


Mine is on the way. I got a 60 Amp for the Minn Kota Endura Max 55 as recommended by them. I got mine from a friend in CA, he bought one before he bought his TM but ended up getting a gas motor instead, so he is sending me his for cost of shipping and letting him keep a flashlight that I left there (he wanted it and the price is equal). I think I am going to just use mounting screws and mount it to the outside of the battery box because in mine there is hardly any room except for the top and that isnt a good idea. Plus its water proof (mine is at least).
 

Starkonian

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
156
Mine is on the way. I got a 60 Amp for the Minn Kota Endura Max 55 as recommended by them. I got mine from a friend in CA, he bought one before he bought his TM but ended up getting a gas motor instead, so he is sending me his for cost of shipping and letting him keep a flashlight that I left there (he wanted it and the price is equal). I think I am going to just use mounting screws and mount it to the outside of the battery box because in mine there is hardly any room except for the top and that isnt a good idea. Plus its water proof (mine is at least).


Thanks. My box is very cluttered as it is and I'm trying to figure out how I'll get one to fit with the least amount of clutter and ease of attaching the motor leads. I saw this on which connects right to the positive screw post which doesn't require a other wire connection from the breaker to the battery. It's more expensive than the basic one off of ebay tho.
 

IN Mariner4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
104
Thanks. My box is very cluttered as it is and I'm trying to figure out how I'll get one to fit with the least amount of clutter and ease of attaching the motor leads. I saw this on which connects right to the positive screw post which doesn't require a other wire connection from the breaker to the battery. It's more expensive than the basic one off of ebay tho.


I like the concept and it would free up clutter. I do not like the auto reset feature. I would rather have a manual reset so I can a) determine the cause of the over amperage and b) I would rather be able to reset than have it reset while checking the motor out (these are just my opinions though). the one you linked to is either a 40 or 50 amp breaker, not sure (can not remember what your TM is) what yours calls for but mine (Minn Kota Endura Max 55) is 60 amp (Minn Kota recommendation). If it was manual and 60 amp I would jump on it because it a) only requires one wire splice (instead of 2 like mine, i.e. two splices on the positive cable), the less splices= less possible problems and resistance and b) it would be easy to mount and less clutter. Once again, my personal opinion for what thats worth :)
 

ScottishScript

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Messages
79
Question for someone who has a circuit breaker hooked up within their battery box. What did you get and how do you have it mounted...pics?

Am I missing something?

For two and a half years my batteries have been on my boat, uncovered, deluged almost every trip by torrential Scottish weather to zero ill effect. I don't even cover it in a plastic bag. I've even connected the wrong cable points to the battery to zero ill effect.

So why spend money on a circuit breaker and battery box?
 

Starkonian

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
156
I like the concept and it would free up clutter. I do not like the auto reset feature. I would rather have a manual reset so I can a) determine the cause of the over amperage and b) I would rather be able to reset than have it reset while checking the motor out (these are just my opinions though). the one you linked to is either a 40 or 50 amp breaker, not sure (can not remember what your TM is) what yours calls for but mine (Minn Kota Endura Max 55) is 60 amp (Minn Kota recommendation). If it was manual and 60 amp I would jump on it because it a) only requires one wire splice (instead of 2 like mine, i.e. two splices on the positive cable), the less splices= less possible problems and resistance and b) it would be easy to mount and less clutter. Once again, my personal opinion for what thats worth :)

Yes, I need a 50 amp. The main reason it trips I read is the prop gets tangled and the motor won't so the amps overload. The auto breaker stays tripped until the amp overload is corrected. I like the idea of not having to mess with the battery box to re-trip the breaker.
 

Starkonian

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
156
Am I missing something?

For two and a half years my batteries have been on my boat, uncovered, deluged almost every trip by torrential Scottish weather to zero ill effect. I don't even cover it in a plastic bag. I've even connected the wrong cable points to the battery to zero ill effect.

So why spend money on a circuit breaker and battery box?


I never had a breaker either. But reportedly you can fry the motor without one and/or cause a fire. I'd re-think not keeping the battery in a box. That's illegal here in the States. Batteries emit fumes which are highly combustable. If you mistakenly arc a post, your battery could become a bomb exploding acid everywhere. You've been lucky so far but...

Btw, I've contacted Minn Kota re: the tillar handle issue. I'll let you know what transpires.
 

IN Mariner4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
104
Am I missing something?

For two and a half years my batteries have been on my boat, uncovered, deluged almost every trip by torrential Scottish weather to zero ill effect. I don't even cover it in a plastic bag. I've even connected the wrong cable points to the battery to zero ill effect.

So why spend money on a circuit breaker and battery box?


Hi Scottish,

There are two reasons I will use the circuit breaker, 1) I bought the TM new and the manual recommends it and I believe it could be a warranty issue is one is not used (I do not believe they can prove I used one or I can prove I did/didn't but at least I will know I did :) ) and 2) I go into a lot of areas that have a lot of weeds/brush etc... and if the prop gets tangled up in it it could cause the motor to run the amps up trying to get out and burn it up. It's basically a good precaution and semi cheap for protecting a $300 plus investment. Will it happen? probably not but if it does.... Its not the water on the batteries its the prop getting hung up etc... which in my areas are a good probability. Also, I believe that a battery box is required or at least a protection bag.....
 

ScottishScript

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Messages
79
I never had a breaker either. But reportedly you can fry the motor without one and/or cause a fire. I'd re-think not keeping the battery in a box. That's illegal here in the States. Batteries emit fumes which are highly combustable. If you mistakenly arc a post, your battery could become a bomb exploding acid everywhere. You've been lucky so far but...

Btw, I've contacted Minn Kota re: the tillar handle issue. I'll let you know what transpires.

I use totally sealed batteries so I am not sure that's an issue for me. My friend who also has an M4 has worked outdoors all his life using batteries in all kinds of vehicles and hand tools and he cannot think of a good reason why the Minn Kota requires a curcuit breaker. I worry more about lightning coming down and striking one of my carbon rods while on the loch.

Keep me posted on the tiller, thanks.
 

ScottishScript

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Messages
79
Hi Scottish,

There are two reasons I will use the circuit breaker, 1) I bought the TM new and the manual recommends it and I believe it could be a warranty issue is one is not used (I do not believe they can prove I used one or I can prove I did/didn't but at least I will know I did :) ) and 2) I go into a lot of areas that have a lot of weeds/brush etc... and if the prop gets tangled up in it it could cause the motor to run the amps up trying to get out and burn it up. It's basically a good precaution and semi cheap for protecting a $300 plus investment. Will it happen? probably not but if it does.... Its not the water on the batteries its the prop getting hung up etc... which in my areas are a good probability. Also, I believe that a battery box is required or at least a protection bag.....

I also fish in weedy areas and even plow through lilly pads no problem with my Minn Kota Weedless Wedge prop replacement.

If you don't have one of these I recommend as it not only minces the water plants, it seems to give more thrust too. Just make sure you get the right size for your engine.

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Acces...essories/Replacement-Props/Replacement-Props/

There's a graph on their site somewhere to help you match you engine to the right prop, definitely worth the money, and your original prop becomes your emergency spare.

Damn, I sound like one of their reps. Hey Minn Kota! Your Tiller handles suck! Fix it!
 

IN Mariner4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
104
I also fish in weedy areas and even plow through lilly pads no problem with my Minn Kota Weedless Wedge prop replacement.

If you don't have one of these I recommend as it not only minces the water plants, it seems to give more thrust too. Just make sure you get the right size for your engine.

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Acces...essories/Replacement-Props/Replacement-Props/

There's a graph on their site somewhere to help you match you engine to the right prop, definitely worth the money, and your original prop becomes your emergency spare.

Damn, I sound like one of their reps. Hey Minn Kota! Your Tiller handles suck! Fix it!


Minn Kota Spokesman Scottish LOL :)

I do have the "Weedless" Prop but haven't put it on yet. Do you think the thrust is better?
I keep hearing about the Tiler handles but have not had any issues yet. I ran it hard these last few times and yanked on it once hard when I was going a little too fast into a turn around and hit another boat's wake, and pulled myself back from falling :-( Is this an issue with their older TMs or all?
 

IN Mariner4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
104
Was just looking at my owners manual for my TM and they state that "An over-current protection device (circuit breaker or fuse) must be used. Coast Guard requirements dictate that each ungrounded current-carrying conductor must be protected by a manually reset, trip-free circuit breaker or fuse. The type (voltage and current rating) of the fuse or circuit breaker must be sized accordingly to the trolling motor used. The table below gives recommended guidelines for circuit breaker sizing".
So that's another reason for us in the States
 

ScottishScript

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Messages
79
Minn Kota Spokesman Scottish LOL :)

I do have the "Weedless" Prop but haven't put it on yet. Do you think the thrust is better?
I keep hearing about the Tiler handles but have not had any issues yet. I ran it hard these last few times and yanked on it once hard when I was going a little too fast into a turn around and hit another boat's wake, and pulled myself back from falling :-( Is this an issue with their older TMs or all?

I noticed the extra thrust and so did friends, however. I suspect the Kota props are made of a plastic designed to avoid cracking but instead lose tiny pieces instead. This means it will shrink over time. Anyone else noticed this?

So it's possible my original prop had shrunk a little over time and had lost some thrust as as result, making it seem like the Weedless Wedge was superior. Make sense? So either I am imagining this prop shrink of the Weedless Wedge rules. I await others input on the subject.

As regards the 'killer tiller.' In my opinion it's a basic design flaw and for all I know applies to other manufacturers with similar designs.

I think - and maybe Stark can back me up on this - the problem develops over time from pulling on the handle to lift the engine out of the water when going ashore. The components connecting the tiller to the unit are just not strong enough for this. Fix it MInn Kota, fix it!!!

And so when I lift the engine these days, I reach back to grip the back of the main housing and pull it up from there, thus minimizing pressure on the handle.
I suspect if I had done this from the get go the issue of the handle coming free from the unit might never have developed.

So I suggest you adopt this method right now and keep as much pressure off the handle as possible and with luck you'll never have the same problem.

:)
 

IN Mariner4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
104
Thanks Scottish for the information and advice. When I lift or tilt the TM I usual grab the back of the housing with one hand and the other on the tiler but I will do as you say and not put any pressure on the tiler.

Still dying to get over there and explore that castle you mentioned :) maybe I can talk the wife into taking a vacation to there, I wonder how the airlines would react to me trying to check my boat and TM, plus scuba and detecting gear (I guess I could rent the boat and scuba gear).
 

ScottishScript

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Messages
79
Thanks Scottish for the information and advice. When I lift or tilt the TM I usual grab the back of the housing with one hand and the other on the tiler but I will do as you say and not put any pressure on the tiler.

Still dying to get over there and explore that castle you mentioned :) maybe I can talk the wife into taking a vacation to there, I wonder how the airlines would react to me trying to check my boat and TM, plus scuba and detecting gear (I guess I could rent the boat and scuba gear).

If I were you this is what I would do. And this applies to Scotland or there.

Do some research and locate bodies of water that were created before the advent of metal detectors. I'm talking hydro electric lakes and lochs.

This immediately establishes those areas where no land lubbers metal detector has gone before.

Once you have a list of locations, research those for historical significance, nearby settlements or perhaps even medieval villages that were flooded when the lakes were created. You then dive those waters looking for booty knowing you're likely to be the first.

One of the freshwater lochs I fish was created in the 1800's. Before that it was just a regular river, one whose original path you can still locate on the sonar.

However I happen to know there was a nearby Roman settlement. Put the two together and you have a loch that could very well turn up Roman items that were stashed or lost on the original river banks long before it was filled in.

I rarely cross that loch in my M4 without pondering what might lie beneath.
 

Starkonian

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
156
More on circuit breakers...
[h=1]GUIDE TO CIRCUIT BREAKERS[/h] [h=3]Fuse and Circuit Breaker Overview[/h]
circuit_breaker.jpg
Circuit breakers are not only great insurance for protecting your new motor, but they are also required by the Coast Guard for ungrounded current-carrying condutors. If a prop is caught on an underwater object (rock, log, thick weeds, etc) and prevented from rotating, the motor will respond by using more and more power from the battery in an attempt to turn the shaft. If this goes on for too long, the high level of current will permanently damage the motor, usually resulting in a completely totaled motor.
A trolling motor circuit breaker is designed to "trip" at a certain amperage, which breaks the circuit and prevents the motor from overloading and damaging itself. At between $20 and $40, they are significantly cheaper than purchasing a brand new motor! Circuit breakers come in varying amperages, and you want one that has an amperage rating (or amperage trip point) that is just above the amperage draw of your motor at max speed.
Both Minn Kota and MotorGuide make their own breakers that are rated to break at an amperage level above what their motors draw. As just about all Minn Kota motors pull less than 60 amps at full speed, the Minn Kota circuit breaker is rated at 60 amps. The reasoning is that if 60 amps is being drawn from the Minn Kota motor, it's operating above the level it was designed for, and should be tripped. MotorGuide's motors are mostly rated for 50 amp breakers. The exception are the MotorGuide Xi5 80 series, which require 60 amp circuit breakers.
Do you have to get a brand-specific circuit breaker? Definitely not. As long as the breaker is rated for a level slightly above the maximum amperage rating for your motor your should be just fine.
 

ScottishScript

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Messages
79
More on circuit breakers...
[h=1]GUIDE TO CIRCUIT BREAKERS[/h] [h=3]Fuse and Circuit Breaker Overview[/h]
circuit_breaker.jpg
Circuit breakers are not only great insurance for protecting your new motor, but they are also required by the Coast Guard for ungrounded current-carrying condutors. If a prop is caught on an underwater object (rock, log, thick weeds, etc) and prevented from rotating, the motor will respond by using more and more power from the battery in an attempt to turn the shaft. If this goes on for too long, the high level of current will permanently damage the motor, usually resulting in a completely totaled motor.
A trolling motor circuit breaker is designed to "trip" at a certain amperage, which breaks the circuit and prevents the motor from overloading and damaging itself. At between $20 and $40, they are significantly cheaper than purchasing a brand new motor! Circuit breakers come in varying amperages, and you want one that has an amperage rating (or amperage trip point) that is just above the amperage draw of your motor at max speed.
Both Minn Kota and MotorGuide make their own breakers that are rated to break at an amperage level above what their motors draw. As just about all Minn Kota motors pull less than 60 amps at full speed, the Minn Kota circuit breaker is rated at 60 amps. The reasoning is that if 60 amps is being drawn from the Minn Kota motor, it's operating above the level it was designed for, and should be tripped. MotorGuide's motors are mostly rated for 50 amp breakers. The exception are the MotorGuide Xi5 80 series, which require 60 amp circuit breakers.
Do you have to get a brand-specific circuit breaker? Definitely not. As long as the breaker is rated for a level slightly above the maximum amperage rating for your motor your should be just fine.

Thanks for that Stark, but I still cannot picture a scenario where I would need this. Also it's not a legal requirement here.

I can imagine someone who uses a Minn Kota that runs off one of those foot pedal thingies might, but considering my hand is on the tiller 100% of the time the engine is working, any weeds or logs would register instantly and I would respond immediately to prevent an overload.

In fact I can tell from just holding the tiller if I have just a little weed trailing off the motor, it's that sensitive.

The idea the engine could burn itself out without my noticing is between almost impossible and impossible.

And yes I will admit it, those do look suspiciously like famous last words.

:)
 

IN Mariner4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 8, 2016
Messages
104
If I were you this is what I would do. And this applies to Scotland or there.

Do some research and locate bodies of water that were created before the advent of metal detectors. I'm talking hydro electric lakes and lochs.

This immediately establishes those areas where no land lubbers metal detector has gone before.

Once you have a list of locations, research those for historical significance, nearby settlements or perhaps even medieval villages that were flooded when the lakes were created. You then dive those waters looking for booty knowing you're likely to be the first.

One of the freshwater lochs I fish was created in the 1800's. Before that it was just a regular river, one whose original path you can still locate on the sonar.

However I happen to know there was a nearby Roman settlement. Put the two together and you have a loch that could very well turn up Roman items that were stashed or lost on the original river banks long before it was filled in.

I rarely cross that loch in my M4 without pondering what might lie beneath.


Good research techniques Scottish.
Problem here in the US, our history doesn't date back like other countries but there is a lot to find in the U.S. and North America.
I do research like you stated, I have access to very old and accurate maps plus data bases (helps to have friends and relatives who work/worked in high places lol).
The reasons I keep mentioning your area is because its beautiful there and I have a fondness for castles. I have detected many castles in other countries and love it.

It sounds crazy but the Mariner 4 is turning out to be a good detecting transport and even a diving platform (yes there are better boats for diving but this one is doing good so far and with a bow board/platform like you made will make it even better).

Thanks for your reply and good ideas, greatly appreciated!
 

Starkonian

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
156
I noticed the extra thrust and so did friends, however. I suspect the Kota props are made of a plastic designed to avoid cracking but instead lose tiny pieces instead. This means it will shrink over time. Anyone else noticed this?

So it's possible my original prop had shrunk a little over time and had lost some thrust as as result, making it seem like the Weedless Wedge was superior. Make sense? So either I am imagining this prop shrink of the Weedless Wedge rules. I await others input on the subject.

As regards the 'killer tiller.' In my opinion it's a basic design flaw and for all I know applies to other manufacturers with similar designs.

I think - and maybe Stark can back me up on this - the problem develops over time from pulling on the handle to lift the engine out of the water when going ashore. The components connecting the tiller to the unit are just not strong enough for this. Fix it MInn Kota, fix it!!!

And so when I lift the engine these days, I reach back to grip the back of the main housing and pull it up from there, thus minimizing pressure on the handle.
I suspect if I had done this from the get go the issue of the handle coming free from the unit might never have developed.

So I suggest you adopt this method right now and keep as much pressure off the handle as possible and with luck you'll never have the same problem.

:)


I pulled the handle off. The issue is the "notch" feeling your feel when you extend the handle is from a raised peg with a spring loaded ball bearing which catches in a small indentation at every stop of the extension movement. Minn Kota failed to put some type of "stop" tab when the handle is extended past the final extension point. So, If you keep pulling, it pulls right off the motor. It is a design defect.
 
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