I have returned... with a Starcraft this time!

BWR1953

Admiral
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Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,178
Howd you come up with 500 for Paint job? I dont think it would be that much. Mine was maybe 200ish i think with paint, primerz and rollers. And i still have paint and rollers left.
The OEM auto paint that matches my truck is $100 a gallon, minimum one gallon purchase. Plus the clear coat as well, which is the same price. So that's $200 right there. Plus I need to buy all the other stuff like primer, rollers, sanding stuff, and so on. Might need to buy an airbrush too. Sure, I'd have leftover paint, maybe even 1/2 of it, but $50 or $100 worth of leftover paint in a can is not as nice as money in a wallet! And that money could be used for other boat stuff as well. Maybe. LOL :)
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,178
I forgot to mention that I definitely have to paint the stern cuz it's seriously bugly.

IMG_8946b.JPG
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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6,178
Made more progress this evening. Woo hoo! :rockon:

The weather cooperated and I was able to get the boat rolled onto the port side and completed the Gluvit application on the extreme front of the bow. Saved a full day! Tomorrow I work on the stern. Have just enough Gluvit left to get that done too.

I was racing the storm clouds this evening but got it finished. Looks like the storm will head south of us but I can still hear the thunder.

Havin' fun on a bun here!

bow gluvit12.jpgcloud1.jpg
 

Decker83

Commander
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Apr 5, 2011
Messages
2,593
I would check and see if you can get some enamel paint mixed to match and add a hardner to it.. Don't use the clear coat at all..
Clear coat is really hard to touch up scratches..
You could even try to color match with rustoleum and some oil pigments.. Would cost alot less.. Sheps over in the glasser fourm did a great job
with enamel..
Great work on the gluvit..
Have a great weekend..
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,178
I would check and see if you can get some enamel paint mixed to match and add a hardner to it.. Don't use the clear coat at all..
Clear coat is really hard to touch up scratches..
You could even try to color match with rustoleum and some oil pigments.. Would cost alot less.. Sheps over in the glasser fourm did a great job
with enamel..
Great work on the gluvit..
Have a great weekend..
The OEM paint on my truck is Light Calypso Green Metallic, so I can't get a big box store to color match. Dunno about having a regular body shop do it but it likely wouldn't be much different in price. Thanks for the heads up on the clear coat.

And I forgot to mention that the silver-gray color below the spray rails that I planned on using for the two-tone is Aluthane, a sealant paint which is $100 a gallon. It would add an extra level of sealing protection in addition to being a great color.

The more I think about it, the less likely I am to paint the boat. Not just due to the expense and time delay, but also because of my lack of an indoor "paint booth" facility. Sure, I could paint it outdoors... and run the risk of getting bugs, bird poop and tree debris in the paint.

No final decision has been made, but being able to discuss it here in this thread is really helpful. :joyous:

Getting ready for breakfast now and will head outside to apply Gluvit to the stern after feeding my face! :lol:
 

g0nef1sshn

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 24, 2015
Messages
1,291
Polished aluminum would look awesome with maybe a pin stipe or the swoosh that matches your truck. That would really cut down the cost and still match the scheme with a custom touch to it!
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
Messages
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Gluvit is done, ya'll! :bounce:

I sure hope it works! LOL!

Hopefully it will cure enough by this evening so that I can get the boat back up on the trailer. Doing family activities tomorrow so won't be able to work on it then.

Next step is the all important post sealing leak test!
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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Back on the trailer! Next step is the all important leak test. Thunderstorms off and on all day today here. Now the waiting begins. Need the storms to be gone before I can do the leak test though.

Getting excited here! :clap2:

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g0nef1sshn

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Feb 24, 2015
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You put a lot more detail and time into your gluvit application than I did and my 2nd test was good. Im sure yours should be a success too! Rain rain go away! Ofcourse I didnt have plans for mine this weekend and the weather would have been perfect for getting some work done.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,787
Just put the plug in and let the rain do the filling. Just be sure to check that it doesn't get too full :lol:
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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Just put the plug in and let the rain do the filling. Just be sure to check that it doesn't get too full :lol:
I actually did start out with the plug in to capture water from the skies but after a couple of torrential downpours I changed my mind and took it out again. Didn't want to go out there in the morning with a squashed trailer and a bent up boat! :lol:
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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Leak test passed!! No leaks from rivets or seams. :bounce: :whoo: :rockon: :peace: :thumb: :clap2:

Thanks for all the great help guys!

I did have a couple minutes of consternation at first though. Saw some drips coming from the stern. Traced them down and figured out that they were just from where the PO had attached the depth sounder sender... without using any sealant at all! So no worries there. That'll be fixed when I get to the transom part of the job.

NOW - what paint should I use to cover the Gluvit? Automotive primer okay? Something else?

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g0nef1sshn

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Feb 24, 2015
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1,291
If its going to be under a deck you dont need to paint it I thought? Unless your just going for added protection.
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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6,178
This is where the water was coming from during the leak test this morning. The PO had simply screwed the sender into the aluminum sheet metal on the stern without any backing or sealant. :facepalm:

senderr leak.jpg
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,787
Good work on the gluvit sealing, there's nothing like a bone dry boat :thumb:

Just a word of caution now that you've got her all sealed up so you don't end up with leaks when your done. Do not walk or stand in the boat without laying ply down first and if you flip her again be sure to use extra help as to not torque the hull any more than necessary. Otherwise you just may hear "pop" or "snap" as the gluvit breaks or looses it's adhesion.
 

g0nef1sshn

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Feb 24, 2015
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Do not walk or stand in the boat without laying ply down first and if you flip her again be sure to use extra help as to not torque the hull any more than necessary.

Otherwise you just may hear "pop" or "snap" as the gluvit breaks or looses it's adhesion.


Ooops....... and ooooops again...... :facepalm:
 

BWR1953

Admiral
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Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,178
Good work on the gluvit sealing, there's nothing like a bone dry boat :thumb:

Just a word of caution now that you've got her all sealed up so you don't end up with leaks when your done. Do not walk or stand in the boat without laying ply down first and if you flip her again be sure to use extra help as to not torque the hull any more than necessary. Otherwise you just may hear "pop" or "snap" as the gluvit breaks or looses it's adhesion.
Thanks for that excellent advice! Hadn't even occurred to me. :joyous: Been looking for a reason to put some of the deck back in to ensure good footing anyway, even if it's just temporarily fitted.
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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6,178
Just got home from HD. They didn't have the 2" rigid foam so I just bought a couple sheets of the 3/4" stuff as a start. Will look into getting the thicker stuff either online or elsewhere. And I also bought the corrugated plastic that I'll use to make the side panels.

Finally! I can actually do something to IMPROVE the boat and not just bring it back to normal! :D

foam.jpg
 
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