I have returned... with a Starcraft this time!

[BWR1953]

When I pulled the LU drain plug this evening, the nose piece was tilted forward and a little more oil and water came out. So I let it drain awhile. I'm pretty sure it's empty now.

 

[BWR1953]

And finally to the pressure tests!

As specified, I pumped the lower unit up to about 6PSI at first. Let it sit for 20 minutes and it didn't budge. Cool.



So I pumped it on up to about 12PSI for the next step. Per spec, it shouldn't be pressurized more than 15PSI and while pumping that tire pump I did accidentally increase it to about 20PSI... a couple times! D'oh! :facepalm:

But after several attempts, I got it to around 12PSI or so and I sat there and watched the gauge for a half hour. It didn't move!

I decided to just let it sit out there pressurized overnight to see how it does. If it's okay, I'll proceed to the vacuum test.

 

[BWR1953]

. This is the absolute, SPOT ON, way to do an OTR transom. Very, Very, Nice job. Just remember the inner plys are not treated sooo, If you poke holes in it. you MUST use some marine sealant on the holes and the hardware to protect from water intrusion.

Wow! High praise indeed! Thank you, sir.

Yes, I'll be sure to seal the holes when I start poking them in later.

 

[BWR1953]

T minus 29 days and counting.

Woo hoo! Pressure test passed with flying colors! :rockon:

Here's the gauge this morning. It didn't budge overnight!

 

[BWR1953]

Guys, is it okay if I just plug the speedo pickup with a screw? I'll not be using it for this motor.

 

[BWR1953]

I have to go buy gas for my Gravely because I have to cut the grass this morning. Dangit. But it's been raining all week and it's a nice day today so it has to get done.

I'll put the LU on vacuum test while I'm gone. At least that's something.

 

[Watermann]

I plugged that LU pitot on my Merc too.

 

[BWR1953]

And how exactly did you plug it? I was thinking of putting a machine screw with some 5200 on it and screwing it in place.

 

[Watermann]

I think I used one of those vinyl bolt thread covers and put a zip tie around it to hold it on. Either way is fine to terminate that thing.

 

[BWR1953]

I think I used one of those vinyl bolt thread covers and put a zip tie around it to hold it on. Either way is fine to terminate that thing.

Okay, I'll get it done.

 

[BWR1953]

Well, my Gravely threw an idler pulley. Not only interrupted the grass cutting but now I have to chase parts and make repairs! It's interfering with my boat time! :mad-new:

But there is some great news! I put the LU under vacuum 3 hours ago and it hasn't budged. I hereby declare that the LU is sealed!

 

[BWR1953]

Sad to say that the only news that I have to report today is that the vacuum test was awesome. I left the pump connected for over 9 hours and the vacuum stayed solid. I'm very happy with that!

Shortly after my last post my wife came home from work early with the flu. Bad. I was already out buying Gravely stuff. So when I got home from the parts run I tended to her for the rest of the day. Still am. Her fever broke about an hour ago and she was doing better... until about 10 minutes ago. So I'm nursing her for the evening.

Am hoping to get the carbs off the Merc tomorrow morning so that I can tear them apart, then hurry over to the dealer and buy gaskets and whatnot before he closes. It will be a Saturday after all and they do close early.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah careful "tearing" those carbs apart, they can be fickle little demon pots if given the chance. Rather than tearing them apart I suggest a methodical break down and a thorough removal of the old gasket material. Don't mix up the parts for each carb either only put them back together with the parts that are from that specific carb. Leave the jets alone and just blow them out with compressed air. On my carbs the bottom drain plug on the main jet reservoir does not have a gasket that comes with the kit as it has no lip, I had to seal them up with teflon tape. Are you planning on using chem dip for the carbs too? If so make sure no plastic parts go in that stuff.

Remember too if you pull out the idle air screws to clean them, you'll have to set them at base 1-3/4 turns out and then adjust them again on the water with the motor in gear on the trailer.

Also replace all of the old fuel lines with new and use hose zip ties to secure the new lines. You don't have to use marine rated below deck low permeation fuel lines either, regular automotive fuel line is ok.

 

[BWR1953]

Yeah careful "tearing" those carbs apart, they can be fickle little demon pots if given the chance. Rather than tearing them apart I suggest a methodical break down and a thorough removal of the old gasket material. Don't mix up the parts for each carb either only put them back together with the parts that are from that specific carb. Leave the jets alone and just blow them out with compressed air. On my carbs the bottom drain plug on the main jet reservoir does not have a gasket that comes with the kit as it has no lip, I had to seal them up with teflon tape. Are you planning on using chem dip for the carbs too? If so make sure no plastic parts go in that stuff.

Remember too if you pull out the idle air screws to clean them, you'll have to set them at base 1-3/4 turns out and then adjust them again on the water with the motor in gear on the trailer.

Also replace all of the old fuel lines with new and use hose zip ties to secure the new lines. You don't have to use marine rated below deck low permeation fuel lines either, regular automotive fuel line is ok.

Yeah, I meant "tearing" as in "eager to get started" on the carb cleanup. Having never taken a boat carb apart before, I'll definitely take it easy and only do one at a time. Documenting as I go.

I hadn't planned on a chem dip, just spraying with regular carb cleaner.

What I'm running into now is finding instructions on how to actually remove the carbs from the motor. Lots of videos online showing how to clean and rebuild, etc. but only after they're already off the engine!

My service manual is no help either.

It just says this:

1. Disconnect choke cable from choke lever. Remove cap screw and spacer which secures choke cable to carburetor.
2. Remove 2 carburetor to powerhead nuts.
3. Remove cap screw, then remove fuel line and fuel connector with carburetor.
4. Installation is the reverse of removal.

No pix either.
Sigh. :sour:

 

[BWR1953]

T minus 28 days and counting.

Capped off the speedo pitot this morning. Glued, screwed and zip tied.



The LU is almost ready to reinstall on the engine. I still need to fill it with gear oil. Went to Wally World this afternoon for grocery shopping and picked up a quart of Quicksilver 80-90 gear oil while I was there. Will fill the LU tomorrow.




Boy, is that engine filthy dirty! I'm thinking of spraying it with some engine degreaser and hosing it off. Is that okay or would I ruin something?

Got the carbs removed from the engine this morning.







Disassembly started. Plenty of dirt and gunk!

 

[BWR1953]

After removing the float bowl I got to see lots of filthy, gummy gunk!









Underneath all that gunk in the float bowl was a major corrosion pit! The corrosion looks like it's coming through to the other side. And it's clear that some PO was in there with a sharp something or other and scratched the bowl too. I'll try to find a replacement bowl, but they're pretty much no longer available. :mad-new:



I've cleaned up the float since the pic was taken, but that needle is tough. The black crud at the end doesn't want to come off with carb cleaner and normal scrubbing. Replacement needles are available but they're about $20 each. Suggestions?





Seems like the carb was built in July 1984. I guess it's expected to be dirty after 33 years!



The main nozzle was also filthy. I cleaned it up with a brass brush and carb cleaner, but the orifices still have green corrosion that I'm having trouble removing. I don't know if chem-dip will take it off and it's $20 for a can. Kinda pricey!

 

[BWR1953]

The boy and I spent hours working on the carbs today, finally finishing up at his bedtime. We're both learning about outboard carburetors and poor maintenance of Prior Owners! Not to mention carefully reading the Service Manual! (My bad. :facepalm

Heck, I only got the top carb finished, or mostly finished anyway. I was working under a magnifying lamp in the evening. Honestly, I could have stayed out there longer. The weather was great but the boy had to get to bed.

Nearly all the screws on the carbs were loose, including the mounting screws and fuel pump screws too! I suppose that once everything is cleaned up and re-tightened that the engine might actually run! :lol:

 

[Watermann]

My carbs were spotless compared to those ones of yours that had standing fuel left in them to varnish. Scratches in the float bowl, why would you need a new one?

Yeah the Chem dip is pricey I guess but you get a gallon can of it and it's useful for all sorts of other parts cleaning not just carbs.

You can make that brass shine by using that ketchup trick or cleaning vinegar should take that corrosion off.

 

[BWR1953]

My carbs were spotless compared to those ones of yours that had standing fuel left in them to varnish. Scratches in the float bowl, why would you need a new one?

Yeah the Chem dip is pricey I guess but you get a gallon can of it and it's useful for all sorts of other parts cleaning not just carbs.

You can make that brass shine by using that ketchup trick or cleaning vinegar should take that corrosion off.

I think I may need a new float bowl because the inside corrosion lines up perfectly with this corrosion spot on the outside of the bowl. I'm a bit concerned that it's going to leak at some point.




This is what the inside pit looks like up close.




So I did the only reasonable thing for a tinhead to do. A leak test!




And it didn't leak. But if I can find a replacement bowl, I'll buy one anyway. Just because.

I ended up running out of carb cleaner this afternoon and buying more, plus the chem cleaner, which I didn't use because of plastic parts that I couldn't get off the carburetor. But I'm sure it'll get used soon enough!

And I did take your suggestion and used vinegar to clean up that corrosion. Worked great, thanks! :joyous:

 

[BWR1953]

T minus 27 days and counting.

I worked on the second carb today. Got it cleaned up just fine. It wasn't in nearly as bad a condition as the other carb. It didn't have any of that sticky black tar stuck everywhere like the other carb had.

I also got the lower unit filled with gear oil. Made a rookie mistake (left the vent open when I unscrewed the pump) and ended up making a mess on the floor. :facepalm:

The fuel screen was really dirty on this one. But that was about it.



But the float bowl on this one was much cleaner!



I'm sure that some guys would re-use the gaskets, but I want new. And the float has fuel in it and will also need to be replaced.



So I noticed that this needle has a red tip as opposed to the black tip on the other carb. They're different model carbs, so maybe the color is a code for needle size?