I have returned... with a Starcraft this time!

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,201
Looking good, that spar will seal the deal :thumb:

So was your KF being towed behind Bonnie and Clyde's car? That transom, wow! :lol:

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Yeah, I'd mentioned previously that the transom looks like it was on the losing end of a machine gun battle! :lol:
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,201
Transom dried and ready for next steps!

Gotta run errands this morning but hope to get some more work done later today.

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strokendiesel002

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
283
Mighty fine looking transom you two have built! A little jb weld applied to the skin and none will be the wiser that this was once a contender for Swiss Cheese alternatives!

Always enjoy the progress you gentleman make!
 

Patfromny

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Dec 2, 2012
Messages
1,197
Nice work. I'm sure the boy loved the late night varnishing session. He was definitely the cool kid at lunch today with that story.
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,201
Got the transom mocked into place with the caps on top this afternoon.


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And moved the 50HP Mercury onto the stern, as a place holder for now.
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The AV plate lined up nicely! :joyous:
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,798
Nice fit and the finish looks really good too :thumb:

fetch
 

BWR1953

Admiral
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Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,201
Yeah, that OTF works really well!

And I had to get that big Merc off the engine stand so that I can install the new casters that just arrived. Gonna need the HF roller dollies for other things soon! :D

Those dollies weren't exactly ideal strapped under the engine stand. :rolleyes:
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BWR1953

Admiral
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Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,201
T-minus 30 days.

And counting! :madgrin:

Here?s the deal: We?re leaving for vacation at oh-dark-early on 8 Jul 17. I want this Kingfisher to be completed, shakedown cruise performed and be absolutely reliable and ready to go by that date.

The goal is to have the boat DONE in 2 weeks. :eek: And that?s a lot of work to finish in a short time! Mind you, my wife knows nothing about this. She think's I'm just working on the motor and transom. Shhh... :peep:

After the work is finished, I want to take the boat out and use it as much as possible prior to traveling so that I will trust it on the trip. If it's not trustworthy, it's not going. So a couple weeks of daily use can instill confidence! :lol:

Many things need to be done. Some are critical, like engine repairs, while others are simple functional upgrades such as storage solutions.

I ask that y?all prod me and keep me moving along and not slacking! :boink:


As I?d mentioned earlier, I?m all in now. And under the time pressure gun! :dizzy:

At one point it looked like it was going to cost $600 or more just to replace the deck. Even more for the rest! Not acceptable. :faint2:

I now have most everything needed to complete the job. And I was able to keep to a budget by making some changes to the original plan. Right now, I?m looking at only $350 costs for the entire refurbishment, including engine parts but not including tools that I have or will purchase. I needed the tools to do this job but they?ll come in handy for the Chieftain (once started) and for other home jobs as well.

We?ll be replacing the deck and so I bought 3 sheets of BCX sanded 15/32? plywood instead of marine grade. At $20 a sheet, it?s frugal and functional! And I?ll be using the OTF method to seal the deck just as I did for the transom. But instead of covering the deck with vinyl or carpet, I?ll be painting it with porch paint with anti-slip mixed in. The porch paint will also be used as trim color.

I?ll be using Tractor Paint and hardener to paint the hull exterior. And I'll use the ?roll and roll? method to paint the boat, both inside and out. The boat color will be changed from the original cream and green to a brighter gloss white with two-tone satin gray accent. The new color scheme will better match my wife?s SUV and the gray will reduce glare from the Florida sun. If possible, I?ll update the Starcraft decals too. And I have my eye on a light gray bimini top but that's outside the budget right now. We'll see how it goes.

New bracing will be installed on the sides to help stiffen the hull.

Under deck stiffening may be installed as well, depending on cost, method and input from the Starmada!

New storage solutions will be installed, including netting and rod holders.

Nav lighting will be wired and installed. None presently exists but I do have some components around.

Bilge pump will be installed. Again, none presently in the boat.

There?s more to be done like sealing holes and whatnot but I need to get started!

So for today:
Install casters onto engine stand.
Engine stuff
New water pump to be installed. All parts acquired and ready to go. After assembly, perform vacuum and pressure tests.
Carb cleaning to be done. Will buy gaskets and other parts as needed after disassembly.

That's it for now... I'm going outside to work! :nevreness:

A concept of the paint scheme.
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,798
Lofty goals indeed for such a short time period.

Here let me help you out with a prod... get on out there and get to work! :whip: and :tape2:
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,201
Okay, what's the magic secret to getting the impeller properly seated? Frustrated here.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,798
Grease cup in housing, screw the impeller into the cup, put the key in the driveshaft with some grease to hold it and slide impeller down into the key.
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,201
I must have held my mouth open right or something because I got it on there. Your way sure would have been a lot easier. LOL

Now I'm​ trying to figure out what to do with the pair of small o-rings that I have left over.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,798
The kits are for multiple models and have extra parts. Does your model use an o ring behind the the splines of the drive shaft?
 

BWR1953

Admiral
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Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,201
The kits are for multiple models and have extra parts. Does your model use an o ring behind the the splines of the drive shaft?
Will check that when I return later. Took a lunch break and am going to get another tool and some parts now. Thanks for the help! :)
 

Patfromny

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Dec 2, 2012
Messages
1,197
Hey, what are you doing in the fridge? Get back out to the garage. Prime boat building time right now. Lol
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,928
. This is the absolute, SPOT ON, way to do an OTR transom. Very, Very, Nice job. Just remember the inner plys are not treated sooo, If you poke holes in it. you MUST use some marine sealant on the holes and the hardware to protect from water intrusion.
 

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,201
Made progress today. Especially for me! :rolleyes:

Installed the casters onto the engine stand. I did the drilling and the boy did the installation. He did a good job too.

Got the water pump kit installed and pressure tested. In fact, it's still under pressure now. Gonna let it sit overnight and see how it looks in the morning.

The first thing we did was to make some more working room. Scooted the KF over several feet. Definitely helped.
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Then we drilled the holes for the casters. The boy steadied the engine stand while I drilled.
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Then the boy mocked the casters into place... because we didn't have any nuts and washers for the studs. Picked those up later in the day and he installed them all by himself.
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Casters bolted solidly into engine stand.
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I installed the lower section of the water pump.
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Finally got the impeller installed.
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And I used a trick I learned a long time ago to help prevent dropping small parts down inside places where they shouldn't be.
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And so just a few minutes later I removed the hole protection... and dropped a socket and nut right down in there! :doh: Hey you! Future reader! Remember, you're not done till your done! :lol:

See the socket? Took us about 20 minutes to get that and the loose nut out of there. Yes, I do have a magnetic picker-upper... somewhere. Couldn't find it but the boy came up with a brilliant idea. So we used several of my super powerful mini magnets that I use for RC airplane stuff, along with a stiff piece of piano wire (also for RC) and made a temporary grabber. Worked great!
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After we got the parts back out, I buttoned up the water pump and installed the slinger and shift-shaft washer. The pump is torqued down to 30 inch pounds, per specification. That's the tool I had to go buy this afternoon - a 1/4" drive inch-pound torque wrench. I first torqued the nuts to 20 inch pounds, then finished off at 30.

QUESTION: The PO hadn't used washers under the lock nuts but they do show on the service manual diagram. I had some stainless washers with the correct inner diameter but wider than the nut heads. I used them and figure that they should be okay but would like to hear from y'all. Should I go with what I have or buy the Mercury parts instead?
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BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
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6,201
The yellow washers are for the lower unit.

The small black o-rings are left over items. I couldn't find any reference to them in the service manual. Spare parts for another variation?
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