HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

[fishie]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

good looking project bud! can't wait to see more!!

 

[jserb]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

ROBJ
What would you sugest I use? Since Poly is weaker than epoxy, can I still use the Biax cloth or would you sugest I go with something else? What combo give me the most bang for my buck? If you can give me some info on this I will highly consider it, cuz i do agree the epoxy is WAY expensive. I however am still considering epoxy for the floor of the boat so it is SUPEr strong.... you thoughts....?

 

[jserb]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

I heard Poly wont stick to wood according to Jamestown distrubters rep?

 

[zach103]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

i just used poly resin on my whole deck. it worked great.. solid as a rock too

 

[oops!]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

I heard Poly wont stick to wood according to Jamestown distrubters rep?

you misunderstood or they lied to you. the rep was referring to poly not sticking to wet pressure treated wood.....the ballpark statment that poly wont stick to wood is an all out lie. the rep needs to be avoided


you really need to do some reading here .....this place really is boat university.....the more your read the less money you can do your project for.

read that glass link i gave you and the hull ext thread......my boat is just 5 feet shorter than yours......and a lot more involved of a resto......yours is just a simple stringer/deck/possibly transom.......and you can have the hull done in less than a month.


all boats are constructed in basically the same way. with the same basic materials. if you read here.....you will avoid mistakes that many of us here didnt

 

[jserb]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

OUPS please consider the personal message I sent you,


Thanks,
John

 

[Robj]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

You can still use 1708 as Oops was suggesting with poly. The actual lay-up you use depends on how it was done originally. Use that as a guide and then go from there. If you really want, cut out a piece of the glass that secured the stringer, about a 2 inch square, and put a torch to it. It will burn away the resin leaving you with the glass fibres. That way you know what was used originally and you can go from there.

Have a great day,

Rob.

 

[Robj]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

Another point,

Before you go cutting out the stringers make sure the hull is supported evenly. You do not want the hull flexing or dips and then when you install the new stringers the flex and dips will stay.

Have a great day,

Rob

 

[oops!]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

not a problem john.....i will......give me about an hour from this posting.


but i ll give ya a bit on open forum that may help....

first of all.....

i would consider your 30 foot twin scarab an exellent candidate for epoxy resin.......because......it is an offshore go fast boat and it could easilly use the extra stregnth that epoxy brings to the mix.......

however.....its not in the budget.....poly WILL work fine.....

at this time we dont even know how much work there is on the hull to do....you may not even need stringers and a transom....so the type of resin you use is...... at this stage of the game.....a future consideration.....

you still need to spend some time going over the boat .....doing "core samples"....to find out where you stand.......from the pics....you may have got really lucky......

and btw.....i dont think there is any one here on the forum that would have passed on that super deal youve got.

you asked robj about using the 1708 bi ax glass....and if i read it right...someone told you you cannot use that glass with poly...only epoxy.....not correct.....any glass off the shelf.....can be used with poly and epoxy.....(unless it is a composite product like carbon fiber....graphite and kevelar) ....these can only be used with epoxy......((poly resin can be used with them...but to NO benifet)) h3ll poly resin can be used with a dish rag and still work somewhat))

if it turns out you are just doing the floor...(deck...sole...) then poly with a layer of csm and a light cloth ...(total approx 8 oz) and your done....on to the gellcoat repairs !

i hope that clears up some stuff.....give me an hour or so....talk to ya soon

cheers
oops

 

[zach103]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

j i didnt get to go down today .. sold the jeep and still in the market for a truck so i need to share the car with my mom who had schoo.. but anyways ill be down there tomor and ill try and find that part for you.. cant promise anything.. ill let you know by 12

 

[Mark42]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

I heard Poly wont stick to wood according to Jamestown distrubters rep?

It stuck to the plywood in my boat in 1965, and its still sticking. So I feel its a good idea to go with polyester.

My question is why would the previous owner completely strip out the boat? That usually happens when the hull is not worth repairing. Be sure to check every inch of the hull to be sure its not de-laminating or experiencing some other serious problem you are not currently aware of.

 

[jserb]

Well all material has been ordered and will arrive on Friday. So in Iboat fashion work begins right away! Saturday I will begin!

When I got the boat the front half of the boat (From previous owner) had its old stringers removed and replaced with 3/4 marine grade ply. So I will pick up where he left off, and being fiber glassing them in. I only have one concern with his work. His measurements are correct, the workmanship is good, however he used (well it looks like brown bondo) to attach the plywood to the hull. And Im here to ask you all if you think that is ok, or if I should grind away what is their and use that pl9000 that Oups likes to use under his stringers( gives the stringer a little cushion between the hull and the stringer). You guys tell me! Either way I am starting with those first cuz they need the least amount of work. I plan on tabbing them in and encasing them first to get me in the game with fiberglass. Then threw out the rest of next week I will cut a section out, grind it, lay new wood, and fiberglass it to the hull. I am going to do it in section s like this because like ROBJ said I don?t want the hull to open up on me or shift. I figure if I do 8ft at a time (Demo, replace, fiberglass) I will keep her with the original contours. Regardless this Saturday I will take more pics when the material arrives and then If I were you id check in once every other day or so. Im going to move quick, and I?ll need your help. I have 8 weeks from Saturday to do everything on this ORG chart I have attached. Talk to you soon!

P.S do you guys think 2 coats of biax will be enough strength for the stringers? I haven?t used biax so I don?t know how strong it is.

 

[jserb]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

Another Issue I have is i have never had a livewell in a boat before so I dont know how they work. My boat has two inlets below the waterline on either side of the boat by the stern. There is one hole in the tank for the live well so im assuming the water that comes into the live well exits the same hole and hoses that brought the water in. Meaning to drain the livewell you must run the boat in order for the water to drain. With this being said I have attached a drawing of what I am assuming is how a livewell is put together. Their should be one Y valve that connects to two inlets together then sends the water to the tank. Then to drain it you get up on plane and open the valve and the water drains out. Am I thinking correctly? Later me know! Thanks!

 

[oops!]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

however he used (well it looks like brown bondo) to attach the plywood to the hull. And Im here to ask you all if you think that is ok, or if I should grind away what is their and use that pl9000 that Oups likes to use under his stringers( gives the stringer a little cushion between the hull and the stringer)

the material used to bed the stringers is not that important...you just need to get the wood off the hull..........it sounds like he used a peanut butter mixture with wood flour.......(really good)

the pl will be cheaper for you than mixing up that amount of peanut butter.

fyi.....three layers of 1708 bi ax is strong enough for an actual hull to be made of.......so two over your stringers is fine.....more than enough......

if you are using a single peice ps ply for the strings.....i would seriously consider the dowell idea presented in diagram on the hull ext thread......(to cap the stringers with glass......

i personally will never do another single stringer with out that dowell idea going on the top of the string.

cheers
oops

 

[oops!]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

btw.....what does "apply dry rot to transom" mean

 

[redfury]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

Livewells acquire and drain their water normally out the back of the boat, bilge's usually drop water out the sides. Overflows for livewells can have drains out the sides as well.

The way to plumb a livewell is to have one line coming into the livewell with a one way valve attached to it. The pump will be back in the bilge area and push water up to the livewell. When it's shut off, the one way valve keeps water from draining back through the pump. The drain will go to another hole, and you'll need an overflow drain also. Both can be plumbed into a Y and out the back. As long as the livewell is above the waterline, you'll have no problems. If you are running the pump and it over fills, the overflow will just drain the excess out the back. When you pop the drain on the livewell, it'll drain out the back. Pretty simple. Now, if you want, you can add a recirculating pump/aerator to keep the bait/fish happy, and a light so you can see inside during early morning/evening hours.

there are a few diagrams online if you do a search. Best thing is to look at the way similar boats are rigged for livewells.

BTW, depending on how you fish, it might be worth your while to have a baitwell in the front and the back of the boat, depending on how you fish. If it's off the back of the boat, then you'll only really need one, but if you sit and fish while anchored, it's nice to not have to run all over the boat to get new bait all the time. ( I plan to have a small area that is insulated in the front and back of the boat for my worms/leeches ).

 

[jserb]

I Just Dont Know.....

I Just Dont Know.....

Well ROBJ just might get to see his day.....I have horrible news..... I was doing my inspections of the stringers for rot to see which ones needed to be replaced, turns out all of them do. But then I so to thinking, and I took the old chain saw and cut the 1/2 think layer of fiberglass on the transome to see what the wood looked like inside......WELL i think the photo says it all...... it was SO BAD the 3 layers of plywood was as thin as paper!!!! So I HAVE TO REDO the transome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now I have a VERY important question:
You can see in the photo that all the wood has rotted away and left the exterior 1/4 fiberglass remaining intact and in good shape. So my question is can I LEAVE that 1/4 inch outer layer of fiberglass in place, rough and scuff it, and then reinstall 3 NEW layers of wood followed by several layers of Fiberglass. Basically what I'm trying to do is NOT cut into the GELCOAT and leave the exterior of the hull intact. I NEED you help oin even how to do this. My concern is how the exsizting exterior fiberglass on the transome will bond to the new wood I will install. Would I use Epoxy? I need your inputs please!

In the photos you can see I left a 2inch lip of fiberglass...I would take my new wood and slid it snugg into this grove and then reglass the wood in.
The second photo, it looks as if thier is still good wood in the area I cut out, however this is just some wood grain that is stuck in the fiberglass....i would plan on grinding this down and then attaching my new wood to this. What do you all think ???

 

[jserb]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

more...


By the way can one use Birch cabinit grade ply for stringers? I have LOTS of this at home in scrap

 

[fire7882]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

You can leave the outer fiberglass and the new wood will bond to it after you scuff it up with a grinder. Be sure to rebuild those vertical supports as well. Someone else should be able to chime in with more info.

 

[jserb]

Re: HUGE PROJECT!! 30' Scarab Sport overhual

FIRE!!! YOUR FIREING ME UP!!! I hope the rest have motivating things to say as well...hopfully with some detail on how to and what wood to use. I am assuming for sure epoxy