Hello All !!! 1979 17' Terry Boats Resto-Mod

IUPapabear

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jan 1, 2014
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80
MikDee. Really??? Hmmm learn something new about this boat every day:)

I am curious about something about the hull. Does anyone know if Terry used the same Hull in 1979 for the Sun Sport & their Bass Boat?? Just changing the cap.
Curious minds want to know... :D
 

IUPapabear

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Jan 1, 2014
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A couple of updates, and a question or two. Both my father and I have had a few health hick ups. His worse than mine, but hell, he is 77 y/o. Great man!!! I am only50 but feel much older some days. Lol
I got "Ugly Betty" in her new home and just about got all my tools, workbenchers, parts storage, etc. Set-up and ready to go.

Okay, dodged a bullet today. Bought a wire wheel set to go on my drill to remove paint off the fence at the condo. Decided to give it a whirl. Been nervous about removing it for awhile. Came off like a dream. Must have used the wrong stuff. BIG surprise. Yay me

next is disconnect everything and pull the motor. Plan on draining any fluids before putting on the stands I built. Anything else, besides picture and measurements I should do???

THEN I will tackle the cap. Now where did I put that dynamite?? Lol:cold::happy:
PICTURES of her sitting in the "Boat Shop!!! (Sounds better than storage unit. :joyous:

Happy Boating-Troy!!!
 
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IUPapabear

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jan 1, 2014
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Almost to the point of no return.
Motor is off the boat and on the stand !!!
Happy it's not on the floor:joyous:
IMG_8003_zps13f56ebc.jpg
IMG_8005_zpscf4a1465.jpg
Here is Ugly Betty in her new home.
IMG_8009_zpsbcf267b5.jpg

Still have a ways to go on getting the shop set up just how I want it, but it's getting closer.
I just couldn't stand anymore of "Getting ready" to work her.
 
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GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
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4,916
Hope you and your pop get to feeling better and have full and complete recoveries from any and all health issues...unfortunately it seems we are just like everything we buy, eventually it wears out and/or stops working...:facepalm:...even worse, we can't go out and buy another...:shocked:
Glad to see some excellent progress...Ugly Betty looks to have a nice cozy place to get rehabbed...
All the best,
GT;)
 

IUPapabear

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jan 1, 2014
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Gus, I just found the message from today. I don't see one from last week. I will shoot you an email tomorrow (Sat) with my contact info. Thanks again, Troy
 

IUPapabear

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jan 1, 2014
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Flotation Question. I have to remove he flotation boxes on each side to replace the transom/stingers/flooring. This is a little ahead of myself, but do these need to be the same size when I replace them?? As of now I'm thinking it would be nice if they didn't come up so high on the inside of the hull. They are only about 3 1/2' long on each side. If I made them shorter, but ran them further forward would this give me the same flotation properties in the end?
Thanks All !!!!
 

rckmowery

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 6, 2014
Messages
30
Where are you buying your polyester resin ? I bought one gallon at napa to try this weekend .
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,928
FYI, The resin from NAPA will have wax in it. Any additional layers will require you to sand the previous lams really well with 60 grit and then wash down well with acetone to ensure a good bond. Even then it's a crapshoot. All resin sold by the gallon by the retail outlets usually has wax in it to ensure it cures properly for the amateur glasser. That's good and bad for the reasons stated. If you're doing a one layer lamination then it's ok or if you're doing wet on wet multiple lams then it's fine too. The other thing to be aware of is this resin has a tendency to "Kick Off" faster
 

rckmowery

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Sep 6, 2014
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So if I understand correctly , what you are saying if I'm going to use multiple layers of mat then this will not work unless I sand between coats? Sounds like a wasted weekend if all the resins locally have wax in them...The only other resin I've seen locally is one made by bondo and was sold at a local boat dealer.
 

IUPapabear

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jan 1, 2014
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I got my first 5 gallons when I was on vacation in Florida. Thanks to GT1M. Not sure where I will get my next purchase. If you know anyone that goes to (or near) Miami and can bring you some back it is the cheapest way. Shipping and Hazmat charges are killers. The guy on Morgan ave will sell it for $40.00 per gallon, no quantity discount that I am aware of. I called him and he seemed rushed on the phone. I may stop by one day and talk to him in person.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Yup, that's exactly what I'm saying unless...You do wet on wet layups which you can do if you're prepared to do that. The other drawback is when you buy your resin from the local retailers it's usually priced almost 25% over the price of what you can buy the laminating resin for, online. Example: A gallon of Bondo resin at my local Home Depot runs $40 and some change including tax. That would be $200 including tax for 5 gallons of the stuff. I can get the GOOD stuff delivered to a loading dock locally for $150.

All Bondo Resin has wax in it too!
 

IUPapabear

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Jan 1, 2014
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Removed about 80% of the transom wood the other day. I got pics, but my phone is acting up. I know, I know. No pictures, it never happened. :suspicious:
I hope to get the rest out and the inside of the transom (and the area around it) by Sunday night.
I really can't believe how thin the outside skin is. :eek:
Thinking of putting a piece of plywood on the outside so it doesn't crack/break as I'm grinding on it. My biggest concern is it may make it easier to "burn" thru the FG. Any thoughts on this?
The weather here has turned cool earlier than normal, hopefully I can get the transom in before it gets too cold in the storage un...errr... I mean, in the boat shop, yea, that's it, the Boat Shop :eagerness:
 
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IUPapabear

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Jan 1, 2014
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I won't know exactly until I get rid of the last thin layer of plywood and whatever adhesive they used. Doesn't make much difference, but I sure would like to know what adhesive they used. It is white in color, looks like caulk without the flexibility. Some of it will "chip" right off, some of it is still stuck really well.
Oh, well, I see much grinding in my weekend.
BTW, Wood, I need to review your section on transom replacement, but I am thinking of at least putting a layer of 1708 on the inside skin before I put the new wood in. Is there a window I need to be in, as far as 1708 on inner skin, let cure, then PB the new piece in? I do know if I wait too long that I should scuff it up and wipe it down with acetone first, correct??
 

Woodonglass

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If you are going to use the Retail Resin with Wax then as I stated you'll need to either lay the 1708 and have the transom ready to install as soon as the layer of 1708 tacks up or wait a day and then sand and wipe down. It would be HIGHLY advisable to do it wet on wet OR even better to buy your resin online.;) It will take approx. 3 -4 gallons of resin to install your transom.
 

IUPapabear

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Jan 1, 2014
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I am using the same resin that GT1M is using. I picked up 5 gals. from his supplier when I was in Florida 2 weeks ago.

It doesn't have wax in it.
 
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Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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DUH, I was confusing you with Mr. Mowery!!!

Nope no scuffing required. With the Non waxed stuff, it'll stay tacky for several days. As long as it doesn't get dusty or dirty you'll be fine. If it goes longer than a few days a light scuff with 60 grit and wipe down with acetone would be all that's required.
 
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IUPapabear

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jan 1, 2014
Messages
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Update: Haven't had much time to work on the boat lately due to other commitments. I did want to post some pics of the progress and ask a question or two, three, four...:panda:
Here is a pic with most of the inner FG removed.


Okay, first question. Was this the standard way they installed transoms in the late 70's ???




It appears they stopped the wood about 2" or so from the side. No fillet, No PB. Seems they just ran the cloth/CSM straight off the face of the wood to tab it into the hull. This left a gap along the edge of the wood. This, to me, seems an easy way for water to get into the transom.
Should I run the wood closer to the sides, fillet with PB and then tab into hull?? Or should I do it as it was?

Next I cut out the foam boxes. On the port side the foam was completely dry!!!! :faint2:
I seriously considered not cutting out the starboard side, but then I decided since everything was going to be new, why not make everything new.
So glad I did as this side had water in the lower aft area. Would have been only a matter of time before more water would have gotten in, although I haven't figured out where the water was coming in from. Hopefully I will find it just for peace of mind. Wait, do you have to have a mind before you can find peace in it???:facepalm:
Here is a few more pics.




Thanks everyone for the help and support !!!
Take Care- Troy
 
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