Formula 27PC Transom Work

[Arawak]

Pealed away what I thought was a fiber glass pan and it's not, and the foam is wet. Only way to get the tank out is to remove the engine room bulk head between the engine room and aft cabin. Still don't know if that is doable or not due to the size of the tank. Does anyone know if there is any way of drying the foam out?

Usually if closed cell foam is soaked, it's damaged and will absorb water again as soon as it's wet. i had this problem with my Bayliner... it would drip for a couple of weeks and lose a few hundred pounds, but as soon as I got water in the bilge the foam would wick it right up.

Not sure if you get freezing weather where you are, but that's a common culprit... the freeze/thaw cycle with wet foam.

But, you could possibly test this with a core sample. See if it dries out, and then put it in water and see if it soaks it back up.

 

[alldodge]

Usually if closed cell foam is soaked, it's damaged and will absorb water again as soon as it's wet. i had this problem with my Bayliner... it would drip for a couple of weeks and lose a few hundred pounds, but as soon as I got water in the bilge the foam would wick it right up.

Not sure if you get freezing weather where you are, but that's a common culprit... the freeze/thaw cycle with wet foam.

But, you could possibly test this with a core sample. See if it dries out, and then put it in water and see if it soaks it back up.

Thanks, appreciate the input, but my hull isn't leaking. The water was coming in from when folks and my dogs would go on and off the boat. Little by little over time the water would leak through the engine hatch and seep into the areas not sealed up. Never even thought it would leak where it did. The hull is rock solid

 

[tpenfield]

AD-

You are where I was about 11 months ago . . . not a happy day as I recall it. The key thing would be to get a look at the tank where it has come in contact with water, as you don't really know how long it has been or how much corrosion has occurred in the places that you cannot see. Also, if paint is coming off with the foam, then it is probably the same guy that OEM painted my tank

So it looks like the fuel tank lives half in the engine bay and half in the aft cabin (right?). I am wondering if the bulkhead above the tank is more of a partition than a structural component :noidea: Either way, perhaps you can cut an area out of the lower portion of it enough so that the fuel tank can be lifted at the butt end to clear the engine mount stringers and be pulled out of the engine hatch opening. Might be tight and a bit off center, but worth some measuring.

 

[alldodge]

Went out and measured the tank it' 14 high, 32 wide and 61 long, only about 18 inches is in the engine room. I really, really, really don't want to pull the tank. Starting to have that sinking feeling that if I keep going, I will have to keep going, and going until I reach the anchor locker. Don't know if the bulkhead is structural or not but also if I do this, I'll only take the center out of it

 

[Scott Danforth]

the more I see foamed in tanks, the more I like my strapped in tank on my Cruisers.

I'm with Ted, can you come out toward the engine bay?

too bad there isnt a solvent one could use to dissolve the foam. However there isnt (I looked). you do not have enough room along the sides to get a small cup-brush down there with a drill extension and chew it away. It looks like you have less room than tpenfield had with his Formula tank.

 

[alldodge]

Don't know if it will come out toward the engine room, but this would be the only way for it to, otherwise you have to take the top of the hull off (not going to happen). I know if I get all this done it well be better but dang I wish I would have never checked for moisture. Then several years from now when I start smelling gas and I have to scrap the boat, could just chalk it up to that's boating.

What's a cup-brush?

 

[jc55]

Thanks, appreciate the input, but my hull isn't leaking. The water was coming in from when folks and my dogs would go on and off the boat. Little by little over time the water would leak through the engine hatch and seep into the areas not sealed up. Never even thought it would leak where it did. The hull is rock solid

I think Arawak is talking about putting the foam in the water, not the boat. He's saying that once the foam is saturated, it will pick up water easier the next time because it is damaged.

 

[alldodge]

You know you just cannot beat Formula for service. I have a 20 year old boat and they provide me with what ever they have to help.
They sent me pics of the removal and reinstallation of the tank from a 27PC. I would post them but there is a confidential statement on the email, It shows cutting the bulkhead up to just under the halon extinguisher. Also the tank was pulled out the twin 350's installed.

 

[tpenfield]

Yup, the folks at Formula are good in supporting the owners of their boats. :thumb: Based on the tank dimensions, I was figuring you would have to cut 8-10" up on the bulkhead to make clearance.

 

[alldodge]

Thanks for clarifying the foam issue jc55.

They show the cut up to just below the halon which would put it higher. Guess going higher isn't the issue, would still have a hole to fill in, probably glass over. I'm not a glass expert now and probably won't be when I get done, but probably be a lot more so when done. :facepalm:

 

[jc55]

No problem. It sure is nice having a boat brand that's still in business and picks up the phone.:tea:

 

[tpenfield]

At this point it is time to start . . .

 

[alldodge]

At this point I would . . .

Could use that beer date Right now I have about 3 fingers of something stronger trying to work myself into doing this job

 

[Scott Danforth]

Could use that beer date Right now I have about 3 fingers of something stronger trying to work myself into doing this job

Oral applications of strong spirits helps to a point. After that point, put down the power tools

 

[alldodge]

Oral applications of strong spirits helps to a point. After that point, put down the power tools

Three finger Charlie mentioned the same thing, I still can't finger out what he was talking about:faint2:

 

[tpenfield]

Where fuel is involved, you should err on the side of caution. It is the old 'fuel tank in the wet foam' thing again. Many folks don't 'believe' in foamed in tanks for that very reason. So, when the issue is discovered, it should be a priority to fix, sorry to say.

It is nice to hear that Formula has pictorial assistance in pulling the tank. No deck liner cutting involved (right?)

 

[Arawak]

I think Arawak is talking about putting the foam in the water, not the boat. He's saying that once the foam is saturated, it will pick up water easier the next time because it is damaged.

Yeah, that's what I meant... I could have worded it better

 

[alldodge]

Where fuel is involved, you should err on the side of caution. It is the old 'fuel tank in the wet foam' thing again. Many folks don't 'believe' in foamed in tanks for that very reason. So, when the issue is discovered, it should be a priority to fix, sorry to say.

It is nice to hear that Formula has pictorial assistance in pulling the tank. No deck liner cutting involved (right?)

Come on now, don't be shaking your finger at me. I haven't said anything about not making sure the boat would not be safe. If I never started the rebuild the problem would not have been found. The issue may not have surfaced for years. I thing if there was an issue which could cause a catastrophic event it would have reported to the USCG, then everyone would know about it. Either way appears to be a mute point this morning, I'm going to fix it. Sent an email last night asking Scott where to find a new tank if one is needed,

There is no deck cutting required to pull the tank, it comes out the engine hatch

 

[alldodge]

Formula ley me know I could post the pics, so here are a few. my guess is this was done at a dealer




Twin engines

 

[tpenfield]

No shaky fingers intended

Very cool pictures. The tank is probably made by Florida Marine Tanks. Hopefully, you won't have to go that route. You might be able to get one made locally, if you had to replace it. Based on the locations of the fittings, it looks to be custom.