Ford 302 issues

Jakem

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
890
I am starting to believe so...any sense wasting 400 a head to have them done in your opinion
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
Valve job shouldn't cost 400 each, maybe on the high side 400 for both, might look for another shop.

I think you needs rings which means it needs to be bored, new pistons and the rest

Should do the heads when doing the block
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
Search for "marine 302 long block" and can get them around 2400 or get a 351 for about the same money
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
Going stock, and assuming every valve and seat cannot be reused

Heads
New valves 25 to 35
Valve seats 100
Block
Pistons 150
Gasket set 100
Timing chain set 75
Lifters 70
Bearings 100
Oil pump 40

Grind crank 140
Install cam bearings 35
Assemble pistons to rods 45
Bore block 160

Looks like 1050

Assemble V8 500 (If you have shop put it together)

Misc 300
 

Jakem

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
890
I talked to an engine machine shop and they do heads as well and he said my readings weren't cause for complete engine. Heads yes not just seals...complete for 395
 

matt167

Captain
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
3,630
Compression reading alone won't tell you that, and $395 is wayyy to cheap to have a set of heads rebuilt. $395 each is probably within reason. But you need a leakdown test to determin, valves or rings, or head gasket. Comp test tells you there is a problem, leakdown tells you where it is


A truck 302 out of a 90's F series is in the realm of a $300 motor running. It will either be roller cam ready or have a roller cam ( 1993 and later. I think. don't quote me on that ). That only matters for the distributor because you would need to swap distributor gears on your marine distributor if it were a roller cam.. You just need to put marine core plugs and head gaskets into it and possibly change front cover and oil pan depending, since Ford used a number of different things. You can check the compression on a motor even before you buy it
 

Jakem

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
890
395 is for one...I will get a leak down before I strip it..thanks for the help
 

jhande

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 26, 2010
Messages
442
You could also do a wet compression test.
Squirt some oil in the cylinder and take a reading.
If the reading is the same as a dry test the rings are good. Pointing to a head problem.
If the reading is higher the rings are bad.
From your compression test readings of 120 - 140 something is wrong. Shouldn't really be more than 10 difference.
Oil on plugs, my guess worn oil rings on pistons.
If you do rebuild the motor make sure they check the heads and block decks for even/flatness.
 

Jakem

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
890
When I first took it out there was black smoke coming from oil cap...not much and not for long..also white up carb and smelled like raw fuel
 

jhande

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 26, 2010
Messages
442
Either time for a rebuild or replace with maybe a 351.
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,056
It also appears from your #29 post that the intake manifold has an internal and external crack on the underside letting exhaust gas leak into the crankcase and into the area below the carburetor.
 

Jakem

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
890
I started over on my valve adjustment as someone suggested they were to tight. All the cylinders that were 125 are now 150. The others are 140 ish.
 

Jakem

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
890
I cannot find this anywhere for my 302. Any suggestions
 

Attachments

  • 20211006_071243.jpg
    20211006_071243.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 9

Jakem

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
890
I am having an issue with my rocker arms staying were I set them. I set the valves and run it and the warmer it gets I have to keep readjusting. Also when I turn crank by crank bolt I get an instant clunk everytime. It is a real pain in the ass to keep pulling my manifolds and valve covers to stop the tapping. Any suggestions
 

Jakem

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
890
My rocker arms will not stay were I set them. I adjust valves and it's nice and smooth. The longer I run it I have to keep adjusting to get rid of tapping. Also when I turn crank by hand I get an instant clunk from bottom end. Any ideas
 

Jakem

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2021
Messages
890
Sorry about that I'm not to good at knowing we're to put posts as you can see
 

jhande

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 26, 2010
Messages
442
My rocker arms will not stay were I set them. I adjust valves and it's nice and smooth. The longer I run it I have to keep adjusting to get rid of tapping.
If the rockers are properly adjusted you should not have to readjust. It is a bit of a time consuming and tedious job. It also depends on what type of valve train your running; hydraulic, solid, roller lifters.

Check this out:

Also when I turn crank by hand I get an instant clunk from bottom end. Any ideas
The clunk could be caused by a multitude of things.
Can the crankshaft be move front to back and make the clunk? If yes the end main bearings could be the problem. If no read below.
If when rotating the crank clockwise and counter clockwise just a little you get the clunk a few things could cause it.
Excessive wear in a rod bearing, or least possible a wrist pin problem. Either worn where it goes through the connecting rod or in the piston.

Make sure you isolated where the clunk is coming from; in the block or timing chain area.
 
Top