Floor replacement.

matt167

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a hammer tap is not an accurate test. Statistically, the transom is gone as is the stringers.. when you get below the floor you will end up finding mush. Those years Bayliner Capri were built slightly better than those after 1986, but still sub par.

Put all the flotation you took out back in
 

Scott Danforth

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Thanks for the replies. I do look at it as some would feel as if its a waste of money, but to me its about the accomplishment of getting it done.I also wanted to give a short update. I have pulled out/cut out most of the floor. Also cut out and removed the two forward and rear facing seat bases. I also removed most of the foam and I am still working on getting all of that out. I have been enjoying the process so far. I also checked the transom with a hammer tap as well as drilling a few small holes to check for rot that I will fill with resin and gelcoat later. Transom seems to me in good shape and I dont think at this time needs to be replaced. I do have a question though as to the foam. When I took the bases out for the seats the base was full of foam. When rebuilding it do I need to make sure that area has foam again? Reason I ask is because I see they sell replacement seats with a plastic base. I plan on redoing all the foam, but wasnt sure if the foam inside of the seat bases was a must or not. Thanks for the input and I have been taking pictures. I just have not had the time to post any as of yet. I will as soon as I can.

Hammer test means nothing other than you own a hammer

if the floor is rotten, 99.999999% chance the stringers and transom is rotten. if yours isnt, buy a lottery ticket as you would have the only bayliner in history with a rotten floor and the stringers and transom were not rotten. Seriously, it would be the only one.

the foam on a bayliner is structural as well as providing flotation. so yes, you would want to re-foam

the new plastic bases are taller than what you have, and if I remember correctly from various bayliner capri threads, wont fit. maybe you get lucky.
 

Slayze

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I wasn't going to buy the plastic bases. I just knew they sold them and I questioned that people were actually filling them with foam or not. Yes Stringers need replaced and we plan on doing so. As far as the transom I still feel it is not bad. So the hammer test I looked at others doing is a waste of time? I honestly didn't think it would be a true test to check it, but I tried it out anyways. That is also the reason why I drilled some holes. I do still however feel that it is in a good operable condition, but you never know once I work my way back to that area maybe I will find some sort of issues that I will end up redoing the transom as well. Thanks for the info.
 

kcassells

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Slayze,
Go for it and go for the whole enchilada. While you're doing the work replace the transom. You'll be happier with the call.
Lots of good advise here. Not easy for sure but VERY doable.
 

froggy1150

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There is another member here (nolomike) and about a year or so ago did deck and stringers only because his transom "was good" now he has to cut out his work to go back in to fix a wet transom. It's not that much more work now vrs going back in next year
 

Scott Danforth

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and NOLA is working on a Glastron...... about 400 miles above a bayliner in initial build quality.

then again wet transoms and rotten floors happen to all boats with wood and foam. and if there is no wood, its failed fiberglass, failed plexus, and other failings within a production boat hull.
 

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
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So upon further inspection the transom will need replaced/fixed. So I will do that as well at some point.

I also hoped that my transom was spared even though my floor and stringers were mush. A lot of the first part that I chiseled was actually pretty dry I wondered if I'd wish I hadn't started the process... but the other half, and mostly the inner center towards the outer hull, was wet and rotted. You won't be sorry that since you've gone to all the trouble to replace the other wood in the boat, you know the transom is new as well. :thumb:
 

Slayze

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I can't believe the person I got it from was actually using the boat still. Thanks for the positive replies. Now to research on how to get this motor out lol.
 

Slayze

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Slayze

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Slayze

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I want to gather more info on removing the stern drive. Should I start another thread in a different section for that or keep the info on the rebuild with this post? Also can someone tell me what drive this is?
 

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matt167

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That is an older Volvo "AQ" drive. That's about all that stands out by looking at the leg/ transom assembly. A Mercruiser is more forgiving, but it's not an OMC Stringer drive which is good.
 

Slayze

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It's a volvo penta AQ125A I seen a few posts saying AQ125A with 270 , but not sure how to tell if that is what I have. Just trying to look at posts and videos to see what it takes to get it off. Any help with a link to walkthroughs that would be for this drive?
 

Bondo

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I want to gather more info on removing the stern drive. Should I start another thread in a different section for that or keep the info on the rebuild with this post? Also can someone tell me what drive this is?

Ayuh,...... Post up the pictures, 'n yer motor/ drive questions in the Volvo I/O forum,......
 

Slayze

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I was able to get the stern drive off. It wasnt to bad at all. Kinda proud of myself for getting it done lol. Now just have to look into getting the rest of it out. I will post in the correct section for that. I will however post some more pics here of it coming out just to keep.it all together.
 

kcassells

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Just double post here too. Lots of guys here like to see whats going on or know how to fix. More post more info more answers!:)
 
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