Floor replacement.

Slayze

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Jul 20, 2019
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29
Floor panel/hatch

Probably a dumb question but what is the purpose of the oval shaped hatch in between seats on the floor? Checking to see if water drains? Storage for something? 85 bayliner caprice 18' bowrider. Thanks.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... Could be to get at the gas tank, or maybe just to reach the nuts holdin' the seats in,.....

Open it up, 'n look,.....
 

Slayze

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Jul 20, 2019
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Thanks for the reply. I wish I could. Whomever tried to patch the floor at one point covered it. Carpet was still cut for it but no compartment. It should look like this picture.
 

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Slayze

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So I am taking on a project that I know some of you will think I would be better off getting rid of and buying a newer boat, but i like putting in the work. It makes it that much more enjoyable once it's done. I picked up an 85 bayliner capri 18' at some point someone half ass patched the floor. Over time it worsened. I have been a big car guy over the years. Done body work/painted for 15 years. Never done a floor on a boat though. Anyway I started ripping out the old wood. My question is what is the best way to get the panels out from where the steering wheel is and on the opposite side? Once panels are out dies the upper part just hang there?
 

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eric102

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If I remember right some manufactures called them ski lockers if they were big enough for such an item, otherwise just a wet storage area.
 

Slayze

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So it's not something that's needed? When I put the floor back in if it's not needed I don't think I will put it back in
 

southkogs

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It's a nice place to stow wet things because it drains down to the bilge. eric102 is right, it's typically called a ski locker - stick your waterskis and tow ropes in.

It's not essential in and of itself, but watch how the stringers are built around it. They can be kind of "structural" for the deck.
 

southkogs

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Slayze Moved you over to the restoration forum. You'll get some more interest and answers over here.

I'd tell ya', I think that you're gonna' have to take the windshield off, and then plan out the rebuild of the helm and passenger console. I think those were kinda' molded into the top cap. BUT ... someone who knows will come by and let you know for sure.
 

Scott Danforth

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first, why on earth would anyone buy a 33 year old bayliner..... especially with a rotten floor.

the build quality being as low as it is, the boat was rotten 15 years ago. the last thing to rot is the floo

to fix, you will need to uncap.

not sure if the port and starboard consoles are part of the cap or separate parts. if separate parts, you have a lot more work, including removing the windshield and rebuilding the consoles and front bow area

then you need to cut out floor, stingers, transom, etc. all down to bare hull then you need to build back up

you will spend between $2-3K alone on just the hull, expect to pay about $1-$2k on the interior, then the remainder of things you found broken.

It will take you a minimum of 4 weeks straight if that is all you do, 6 weeks if you have to rebuild all the consoles and seating in the bow..... or if you have a life outside of restoring boat hulls, about a year or more of weekends and evenings.
 

Scott Danforth

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start by reading the links in the DIY sticky at the top of the page. start with link 14, then 15, then 18, then 2, 3, 4a, and 4b
 

wahlejim

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Floor patching indicates soft spots on the floor. The floor is usually one of the last things to get soft. If you can open it up, drill some 1/4" holes into the sides (the stringers). If anything but dry wood comes out, the boat is no longer structurally sound and needs a rebuild. If the wood is dry, fill with 5200 and you are good to go.
 

RE2Master

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Sep 18, 2019
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Hi, well for the most part post 4 is accurate this is a lengthy and expensive project to do that will exceed the future resale value when you want to upgrade. Sadly Bayliner did create some very nice looking and user friendly boats when you look at them but that is where the quality ended for most. Great gel and fiberglass but everything hidden under it was questionable. If you lived close enough to central florida I would gladly come help asses some of the work needed otherwise lots and LOTS of photos from LOTS of angles showing the damage and a few true level shots from the front to see condition of consoles. If they are still even that is great it will help a bunch but if the port is sagging a bit like most do when the floor begins to go will make it a little harder. Redoing both floor and stringer would properly be done uncapped and with a level hull and use a level at all times. Not having the hull 100% supported like when it was in the mold is also a problem for times you have to get inside to work it will distort some so most work and measurements need to happen from outside. Not impossible but very aggravating work. Let me know what you want to do and I will help any way I can.
 

Slayze

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Jul 20, 2019
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Thanks for the replys. I know some would question why? Well I like to do it that's the why. It just makes it that much more enjoyable to me sitting out there fishing while looking at the boat and saying "I did this". To each his own I guess. Yes I do have a life so it will definitely take some time to do. I know I may run into some costs that will end up being more than what I may get if sold, but if I can get it right I don't plan on selling it. Maybe when I can't use it anymore I will give it to one of the kids who knows.

Rot seems to be the worst up front. Further back it seems to get better. I do have fiberglass experience and have all the resins and glass I need to do the job. Just need some marine wood once I'm ready. Port and starboard consoles are part of the cap. I have never done a floor in a boat, but I do have a friend who has and has even more fiberglass experience than I do. Other than the floor and stuff under that can't be seen the upper was in decent shape. Seats do need new wood under, but that's the easy part. RE2new Thank for offering to help me, but I am in Ohio.

I also picked up a 71 C10 I will be restoring to haul it with. Already have a nice tri-coat Red that I will be eventually painting the truck with. Maybe I can get them done around the same time 😉.

Guy I got the boat from had it out on the lake plenty of times, but I wanted to get it right before taking it out.

I will see if I can get a few photos uploaded, but the size limit on uploads is pretty small.

Again thanks for any and all the help. I have been watching a ton of videos and reading as much as I can. I'm definitely trying to research as much as I can and will be looking at the post you are recommending. I haven't seen a lot of videos of people removing panels under consoles. Usually they are already out or the are doing it without taking them out.

What about the seat boxes? What's the best way to get those out of there? Can I do so with them being reusable? Also once I get stuff out of the way I will be removing all the wet foam. Already have access to 2lb 2 component foam when it comes time to put it back in.
 

Scott Danforth

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Thanks for the replys. I know some would question why? Well I like to do it that's the why. It just makes it that much more enjoyable to me sitting out there fishing while looking at the boat and saying "I did this".

I have restored a few boats.... not to mention dozens of vehicles, hot-rods, street rods, trucks, etc.

boats are 3x the work, and 3x the cost

I would start with a better brand of boat than a mid 80's bayliner.

Rot seems to be the worst up front. Further back it seems to get better. .
that is because someone most likely did a deck-over on the boat. trust me, the transom, foam, stringers, bulkheads all long ago rotted. just use the search function on bayliner capri here and you will find about 4 active threads.


. Seats do need new wood under, but that's the easy part. .
your seat foam is most likely crumbling and the seat vinyl has long since past the "sell by" date once you start pulling the seats apart, you will realize this.

I also picked up a 71 C10 I will be restoring to haul it with. Already have a nice tri-coat Red that I will be eventually painting the truck with. Maybe I can get them done around the same time 😉.

focus on the truck, unlike the boat, that will have resale value when you are done...... then buy a boat for $10k when the truck is done and you will be ahead.


I will see if I can get a few photos uploaded, but the size limit on uploads is pretty small.

look at the photo upload tutorial. you need to reduce your photo size to about 25% of its current size to about 400kb

Again thanks for any and all the help. I have been watching a ton of videos and reading as much as I can. I'm definitely trying to research as much as I can and will be looking at the post you are recommending. I haven't seen a lot of videos of people removing panels under consoles. Usually they are already out or the are doing it without taking them out.

What about the seat boxes? What's the best way to get those out of there? Can I do so with them being reusable? Also once I get stuff out of the way I will be removing all the wet foam. Already have access to 2lb 2 component foam when it comes time to put it back in.

not sure of the construction on your particular bayliner. if the console is part of the cap, then so is the front bow seating. if not, you will end up rebuilding most of it. I was lucky with my Avanti where the consoles, bow seating, windshield, etc. was all left intact.

I know the seat bases in the cockpit are part of the floor. you must document, then destroy all that to get the floor up, then tear out all the foam, stringers, etc. then build all the hull structure, then the floor, then for the seat bases..... build it all back.

I say this because I want you to have your eyes wide open..... your 80's bayliner was the entry level boat brand with a design life of 15 years max. they were designed to be cheap, get people on the water easily, and to make bayliner profit... https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...52-perspective-of-fiberglass-boat-design-life

if you intend to rebuild the bayliner, it can be done....and we will all give great advice...... however first understand the costs (I may be light in my estimate). understand the time.... (my simple re-power and gel coat change is coming up on 4 years.)...... and most importantly, get the approval of your wife/GF/significant other.
 

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
Messages
400
So I am taking on a project that I know some of you will think I would be better off getting rid of and buying a newer boat, but i like putting in the work. It makes it that much more enjoyable once it's done. I picked up an 85 bayliner capri 18' at some point someone half *** patched the floor. Over time it worsened. I have been a big car guy over the years. Done body work/painted for 15 years. Never done a floor on a boat though. Anyway I started ripping out the old wood. My question is what is the best way to get the panels out from where the steering wheel is and on the opposite side? Once panels are out dies the upper part just hang there?

I'm going to go against the tide and say do what makes you happy.
I'm in the midst of restoring a 80's Campion that, from everything I've seen, was built much like Bayliners and almost any other boat built in the same time period. Will it ever be worth what I put into restoring it?? Never... but that's not why I started the project. I did it because I'd never worked with fiberglass and never owned a boat and wanted to learn from ground up. It has fulfilled all my expectations. :) If you're doing it to learn, you'll totally enjoy the process. I'd agree that if you're in it to try and make a profit, you'll probably not come close. I don't see many rebuilds going on now that expect to ever sell them for a profit. Do it because you enjoy it and you won't ever be disappointed. :thumb:
Good luck, enjoy the process, and I'll be following along your rebuild!
 

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
Messages
400
Fwiw too, I'm reusing most of my existing seats and interior. They're not in great shape but good enough for me. I have no visions of a brand new boat... just a much safer one that will last many years. I replaced just the wood in the seats that was very simple and cost less than $50.
 

Slayze

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Jul 20, 2019
Messages
29
Thanks for the replies. I do look at it as some would feel as if its a waste of money, but to me its about the accomplishment of getting it done.I also wanted to give a short update. I have pulled out/cut out most of the floor. Also cut out and removed the two forward and rear facing seat bases. I also removed most of the foam and I am still working on getting all of that out. I have been enjoying the process so far. I also checked the transom with a hammer tap as well as drilling a few small holes to check for rot that I will fill with resin and gelcoat later. Transom seems to me in good shape and I dont think at this time needs to be replaced. I do have a question though as to the foam. When I took the bases out for the seats the base was full of foam. When rebuilding it do I need to make sure that area has foam again? Reason I ask is because I see they sell replacement seats with a plastic base. I plan on redoing all the foam, but wasnt sure if the foam inside of the seat bases was a must or not. Thanks for the input and I have been taking pictures. I just have not had the time to post any as of yet. I will as soon as I can.
 
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