Floor and stringer replacment

[rickryder]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

if you can take the boat off the trailer and set in on the floor or drive way put somthing under it like cardboard so it does not get all scratched up make sure you make the boat level use somthing to hold it up so its not laying on its side all your trying to do is make sure there is nothing puching on the sides of the boat putting dents in it or twisting it because like i said once theres a dent or a twist and its glassed over its there to stay

WHAT!????? Drop it on the ground???? :facepalm: You need to put it on a cradle to hold the shape of the hull....or a bunk trailer with extra support....

How many restorations have you done slim?? This is very scary.......

 

[rickryder]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

Stonemason please read my resto thread below to see how stringers get glassed in and all the prep that goes with it....

Have you core sampled the stringers to see how far the rot goes...
Have you checked the transom for rot also?

Please post pics of what your working with so we can direct you in rebuilding a SAFE boat.....

 

[slim6969]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

i dont mean drop it right on the ground set it on its bottom and support the sides most ppl dont have cradles and bunks are not always flat and true takeing the boat off it trailer is not a new thing ask any repair shop they will tell you to take the boat off the trailer if you can

 

[stonemason66]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

Stonemason please read my resto thread below to see how stringers get glassed in and all the prep that goes with it....

Have you core sampled the stringers to see how far the rot goes...
Have you checked the transom for rot also?

Please post pics of what your working with so we can direct you in rebuilding a SAFE boat.....

yep i checked trans,and motor mount all good there. Main prob. with the stringers was where they ran plywood between the stringers.

 

[rickryder]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

You build a cradle out of 2x4's..... If he is on a bunk trailer and leaving the cap on.....just some added support is all he needs....

You think the ground with some blocking is gonna keep the hull from flexing or twisting..... That's not a good thing...

 

[rickryder]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

yep i checked trans,and motor mount all good there. Main prob. with the stringers was where they ran plywood between the stringers.

You checked the transom how?

The plywood between the stringers are the bulkheads....

 

[slim6969]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

Stonemason please read my resto thread below to see how stringers get glassed in and all the prep that goes with it....

Have you core sampled the stringers to see how far the rot goes...
Have you checked the transom for rot also?

Please post pics of what your working with so we can direct you in rebuilding a SAFE boat.....

what i said is not wrong and is not unsafe also i would not pull apart my own boat and mess it up make it unsafe then put my kids in it i work in a repair shop that also builds boats never have any prob and never have ppl coming back saying there boat is messed up

 

[slim6969]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

what your talking about is much the same thing as what im talking about i never said pull the boat off the trailer throw it on the ground and have at er

 

[stonemason66]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

The stringers are in and done pretty sure i did good their. Worried about the sides laying out a little when i glass in the floor. Boat wont fit in my garage and im not gonna put it on the ground. thinkin i will just support the sides with a 2x4 under each outer edge. Not much upper lift but a little with one running horizontal and one vertical for some support. Will take some pics. tomorrow.

 

[stonemason66]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

You checked the transom how?

The plywood between the stringers are the bulkheads....

yes the stringers actually butted up against the plywood so the stringer was not continuous. the plywood rotted between it.drilled the trans. from inside down low and mid high 3/8 deep. No rot or wetness.

 

[rickryder]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

You have to remember that you are talking to someone who has never done this before.....without explicit details on how to block up a boat and remove the trailer.... The way you wrote it sure sounded like drag it off the trailer on to some cardboard and block it so it sits upright.....

And when did I ever say you were building an unsafe boat???

 

[slim6969]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

You have to remember that you are talking to someone who has never done this before.....without explicit details on how to block up a boat and remove the trailer.... The way you wrote it sure sounded like drag it off the trailer on to some cardboard and block it so it sits upright.....

And when did I ever say you were building an unsafe boat???

ok lets get back on track here we are kind of high jacking this thread with this ranting sorry stone if i was not clear im sure what you are doing and have done will be fine i do think if you are worried about the sides then go a head and block them some how if the deck is still on there will not be much bow there if any

 

[rickryder]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

yes the stringers actually butted up against the plywood so the stringer was not continuous. the plywood rotted between it.drilled the trans. from inside down low and mid high 3/8 deep. No rot or wetness.

OK that's good that the transom is solid.

When you get your pics up we can see what's going on with the stringers and bulks...

And slim I was not trying to beat ya up dude....I was just concerned that the OP would not understand what you were trying to get across.... my apologies if I offended you in any way....

 

[stonemason66]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

You checked the transom how?

The plywood between the stringers are the bulkheads....

bulkheads now i know thanks.

 

[rickryder]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

Hows the flotation foam in this Bliner? Did you check that for water saturation? The top may be dry but the bottom can be soaked and waterlogged....

Nevermind I just re read the first post.....You need to put pour in foam back in...it's a structural part of a Bayliner...

 

[stonemason66]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

after i finished the stringers i put in new bulkheads 3/4 plywood. I used cardboard to a pattern to asure a perfect fit to the bottom of the boat. used it to mark wood worked great! Put resin on the edges and on the hull,butted it up against the stringer and put a cleat on both sides sandwiching each end in and screwed them to the stringer and the bulk head. Everything i have done i have resined togeather. This sucker is solid and will never rot again!!!

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

I agree with Rick...need pour foam. Everything I ha e researched about these type bayliners says to use pour foam for structural support, but can be 2lbthere foam.

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

Lol.....the only thing I can keep thinking about is that Saturday night live skit...."throw it to the ground"

 

[slim6969]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

lol hahahahaha the pour foam is not cheap but the board foam is not going to do any thing for the structural support

 

[oops!]

Re: Floor and stringer replacment

after i finished the stringers i put in new bulkheads 3/4 plywood. I used cardboard to a pattern to asure a perfect fit to the bottom of the boat. used it to mark wood worked great! Put resin on the edges and on the hull,butted it up against the stringer and put a cleat on both sides sandwiching each end in and screwed them to the stringer and the bulk head. Everything i have done i have resined togeather. This sucker is solid and will never rot again!!!

hi stone.....

im a little worried about this post.

you mentioned that you resined everything.....im not sure what you mean....

resin is very brittle.....very very brittle.....it needs glass where ever there is resin.

ok......there is the test of resin alone. when you are finished glassing....and the next day, the left over resin in your bucket is fully cured.

pull it out of the bucket.....

crumple it in your hands........if there is a thicker portion......drop it on the ground....it will shatter.

this is what resin coating is.....i dont care what the resin is coating.....cement or wood......it is weak.

the resin needs the glass.....it must have glass to be strong....alone....they are weak.....togeather they are as strong as steel.

if you have resin coated the deck hull joint, or the stringers or the joint between the stringers and hull.....and not used a filler or glass...

i would rip it back out.....really....it is very weak one good whack on a wave,,,,,and it will shatter. the hull will stay in tact, it has glass, but the joint will shatter..

im sorry if i am just kinda jumping in here with out reading the rest of the thread, i was just alerted to this possible problem.


by the way......when you take a boat off the trailer for structural work such as stringers.....you must support the hull.
alot of people use cradles front (bow) and aft (transom).
in longer boats,,,,this causes a point load.
and the sides will tend to warp outward. after the stringers are in......it will remain that way.
the trick is to avoid a point load.
a set of 2x6 on the flat between the forward and aft cradles will do it....or a center block that takes the bow out of the keel is all you need.

just make sure the cradles go far enough up the hull to fully support the "v" of the hull.

i hope that helps, and i hope you dont have to rip it apart again.

cheers
oops