First time boat owner with questions about 1998 Starcraft 1810 LX

KJM

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Jul 31, 2016
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A bit overwhelming at the moment, just need to figure everything out and get rolling. :D
As was said by others, find out how all that water is getting in first. That might make everything else irrelevant. If that turns out to be an easy fix than just take it one thing ata time from there. The exhaust manifolds aren't gone bad at the moment I assume, so maybe that can wait a year or two. I wouldn't change any shift cables if she is shifting ok now. Its easy for everyone to say replace this and change that when they aren't the ones paying for it.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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tools? well do you have a bad back? If so the drive jack I posted a pic of is the best money you will ever spend. Getting it off, is one thing, getting it back on, well sometimes it goes right on, other times the last 1" will fight you to the point of utter frustration. What I learned in 15 years of doing this:
1)drive jack essential, it gets the drive at the right height
2)alignment tool essential, it helps line up the gimble bearing
3)then there are tricks, as in, on my OMC Cobra which you install in neutral, unlike the Merc Alpha which you install in fwd gear. For the Cobra you get a long thin screwdriver and you slide it in the cross for the u joint. Now you can turn the driveshaft just slightly as you try to slide the drive on, while keeping the u joints straight and level just to get the splines to line up. After I learned this little trick, it became easy every time.
I'm sure the Merc guys can share the tricks they use to get the Alpha back on....
 

poconojoe

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I wouldn't change any shift cables if she is shifting ok now. Its easy for everyone to say replace this and change that when they aren't the ones paying for it.
I wouldn't change the lower shift cable alone, but if I were doing a complete bellows job on a 1998 boat, I would change that cable while I'm in there.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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Not to beat a dead horse but don't dilly dally on those bad manifolds. It could REALLY cost you. There is a reason why Merc discontinued them. Due to the casting method used they could not get consistent wall thickness. That means that in some areas they could be very thin and can rust though yes even in fresh water. In salt water we are used to this as a regular thing. We remove and inspect the exhaust at 5-7 years or as soon as you see rust stains at the elbow/manifold joint. Even the expensive Merc dry joint elbows can rust through, under the rubber hoses yet look OK on the outside.
 

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Wolfgheist

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Too much to list.
Click the link to that sticky in my last post. Post #57.
A lot to read there.
Scroll down to find threads pertaining to your setup.
There's also a section that lists the tools needed for specific jobs. And sections on fabricating homemade tools.
The stickies are an amazing collection that are a wealth of information.
I have watched several videos of people pulling the drive and replacing the gimbal, the bellows and the impeller and they never used any out of the ordinary tools.

And a lot of those stickies seem to go to broken links or wrong pages.
 

hugh g

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 21, 2002
Messages
225
Cannot find anyone affordable with time to look at the boat for several weeks, so will do what I can on my own. One of the guys told me to just fill the engine compartment with water to see where it leaks out, versus putting it in water and trying to see where it is coming in. He said just be sure I do not get water up to the starter or the starter will get ruined.

Is this legit advice?
No. Don't fill the bilge up with water, that's a terrible idea. And I would avoid that mechanic.
 

Wolfgheist

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Aug 24, 2021
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tools? well do you have a bad back? If so the drive jack I posted a pic of is the best money you will ever spend. Getting it off, is one thing, getting it back on, well sometimes it goes right on, other times the last 1" will fight you to the point of utter frustration. What I learned in 15 years of doing this:
1)drive jack essential, it gets the drive at the right height
2)alignment tool essential, it helps line up the gimble bearing
3)then there are tricks, as in, on my OMC Cobra which you install in neutral, unlike the Merc Alpha which you install in fwd gear. For the Cobra you get a long thin screwdriver and you slide it in the cross for the u joint. Now you can turn the driveshaft just slightly as you try to slide the drive on, while keeping the u joints straight and level just to get the splines to line up. After I learned this little trick, it became easy every time.
I'm sure the Merc guys can share the tricks they use to get the Alpha back on....
No, my back is good. I am an international Judo competitor. :)

Not sold on the drive jack after watching numerous videos without one :p I might change my mind after trying to hold it and set it though?
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,653
I have watched several videos of people pulling the drive and replacing the gimbal, the bellows and the impeller and they never used any out of the ordinary tools.

And a lot of those stickies seem to go to broken links or wrong pages.
keep in mind there is video editing, they don't always show you everything. Without the right tools, removing the gimble bearing can be a horror show, and without the right installation tool, you will damage the new bearing and then in a few weeks it starts howling and you are back to where you started!
The only vids to watch are achris's on this site.
 

Wolfgheist

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No. Don't fill the bilge up with water, that's a terrible idea. And I would avoid that mechanic.
On one hand, it made sense since it would be easier to monitor water coming out, than coming in, since I will pretty much not be able to see much past the engine.

On the other hand, it sounds like a terrible idea to fill my bilge up with water. :D
 

Wolfgheist

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keep in mind there is video editing, they don't always show you everything. Without the right tools, removing the gimble bearing can be a horror show, and without the right installation tool, you will damage the new bearing and then in a few weeks it starts howling and you are back to where you started!
The only vids to watch are achris's on this site.
Are his videos in random spots, so just search by his name? I did not see a sticky with videos, but may have overlooked it.
 

Lou C

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No, my back is good. I am an international Judo competitor. :)

Not sold on the drive jack after watching numerous videos without one :p I might change my mind after trying to hold it and set it though?
well you can build your own, I did that for my first one. Used some left over wood and casters for the bottom to make it roll. Not hard to make one. This is an old pic like 15 years ago. Still running the same OMC Cobra drive....I still have that old stand I use it to store my spare Cobra drive I have sitting in the garage.
 

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hugh g

Petty Officer 1st Class
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225
On one hand, it made sense since it would be easier to monitor water coming out, than coming in, since I will pretty much not be able to see much past the engine.

On the other hand, it sounds like a terrible idea to fill my bilge up with water. :D
It's a bad idea to add a few hundred pounds of water to your bilge I don't care what that guy said. Five gallons of water weighs about 40 lbs.

When I did my gimbal bearing I rented a slide hammer from a local rental shop. Soak the bearing down with PB Blaster & let it sit for a few hours. But the alignment tool is a must have. Proper alignment is critical when reinstalling the drive. You don't even want to grenade the engine coupler which requires pulling the engine to replace it. That's why you need that tool. You can find one on ebay for a decent price.
 

nola mike

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Apr 22, 2009
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Yup. OEM is best, but FWIW I'm on year 4 of my Sierra bellows and they look new. That kit includes the gimbal bearing, which probably adds significantly to the price.
Cannot find anyone affordable with time to look at the boat for several weeks, so will do what I can on my own. One of the guys told me to just fill the engine compartment with water to see where it leaks out, versus putting it in water and trying to see where it is coming in. He said just be sure I do not get water up to the starter or the starter will get ruined.

Is this legit advice?
I wouldn't do that. You might not see the leak unless it's gushing. Also risk getting water into bellows, etc.
Other than the alignment tool, what other specialty tool(s) would be needed? I have a fairly extensive set of tools for Home construction, automotive, motorcycles, 4 wheelers, bicycles etc...
You'll need an exhaust bellows install tool (unless you get an exhaust tube instead, which is super simple to install. Also there are instructions for a DIY bellows install tool). You'll also need an alignment tool off of ebay; they have kits that include a gimbal installer with it, which might be worth getting. That's about it. You absolutely need the factory service manuals for your engine and stern drive.

Don't worry, seems overwhelming, but you'll have all winter to learn! What I'd do before you get on the water this season:
1. Find the leak. Critical.
2. Change/check oil and gear lube. Easy to do. You'll need an oil pump and gear lube filler if it hasn't been mentioned. Shouldn't take you more than an hour or 2 even if you've never done it.
3. Pull drive, change impeller. This is a crapshoot. Should be done before you get out there, but if you can find when the impeller was changed, you might risk it. Definitely in the offseason.
4. Bellows. Those need to be done, but unless they're leaking now they can probably wait.

All of this is dependent on that leak. It may force your hand, and your season may already be over if it's in the bellows. And if it isn't, your boat may be junk...
 

Wolfgheist

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Yup. OEM is best, but FWIW I'm on year 4 of my Sierra bellows and they look new. That kit includes the gimbal bearing, which probably adds significantly to the price.

I wouldn't do that. You might not see the leak unless it's gushing. Also risk getting water into bellows, etc.

You'll need an exhaust bellows install tool (unless you get an exhaust tube instead, which is super simple to install. Also there are instructions for a DIY bellows install tool). You'll also need an alignment tool off of ebay; they have kits that include a gimbal installer with it, which might be worth getting. That's about it. You absolutely need the factory service manuals for your engine and stern drive.

Don't worry, seems overwhelming, but you'll have all winter to learn! What I'd do before you get on the water this season:
1. Find the leak. Critical.
2. Change/check oil and gear lube. Easy to do. You'll need an oil pump and gear lube filler if it hasn't been mentioned. Shouldn't take you more than an hour or 2 even if you've never done it.
3. Pull drive, change impeller. This is a crapshoot. Should be done before you get out there, but if you can find when the impeller was changed, you might risk it. Definitely in the offseason.
4. Bellows. Those need to be done, but unless they're leaking now they can probably wait.

All of this is dependent on that leak. It may force your hand, and your season may already be over if it's in the bellows. And if it isn't, your boat may be junk...
It will not be winter in Texas for several months. That usually starts in January and hot until then. :D

Oil and Drive Lube are good. I checked those. The Power steering fluid is good and the SAE hydrolic fluid is good (Which is great because I have no idea what to top it off with, lol).

These are what I have in my Amazon Cart. Trying to verify the impeller is correct.

Guess, I will get it ready to go to the lake and go find the leak. I will try to figure out the bellows first though and see if I can find it and test it. You have me interested in the exhaust tube as posts say it makes the engine a little louder, but multiple benefits with back pressure and exhaust etc.. Where do I find an exhaust Tube kit?
 

Wolfgheist

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well you can build your own, I did that for my first one. Used some left over wood and casters for the bottom to make it roll. Not hard to make one. This is an old pic like 15 years ago. Still running the same OMC Cobra drive....I still have that old stand I use it to store my spare Cobra drive I have sitting in the garage.
This is what I am considering since it is pretty simple and easy to build. Like my egg crate dirtbike stands. :D
 

Wolfgheist

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I also did get the Seloc MerCruiser Stern Drives 1992-2000 Repair Manual, but someone earlier said the are junk. I spent $50 on this manual, should I return it? Something better recommended?
 

hugh g

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Dec 21, 2002
Messages
225
I also did get the Seloc MerCruiser Stern Drives 1992-2000 Repair Manual, but someone earlier said the are junk. I spent $50 on this manual, should I return it? Something better recommended?
I once bought a Seloc manuel for my Cobra when I didn't know any better. I ended up wadding it up & used it to start fires in my backyard pit. Worked well for that. Get a Merc shop manuel.
 

Wolfgheist

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I once bought a Seloc manuel for my Cobra when I didn't know any better. I ended up wadding it up & used it to start fires in my backyard pit. Worked well for that. Get a Merc shop manuel.
Any suggestions on where to get a physical one? I bought the Seloc, because it was the only one I could find.
 

JASinIL2006

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Feb 10, 2012
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5,673
Cannot find anyone affordable with time to look at the boat for several weeks, so will do what I can on my own. One of the guys told me to just fill the engine compartment with water to see where it leaks out, versus putting it in water and trying to see where it is coming in. He said just be sure I do not get water up to the starter or the starter will get ruined.

Is this legit advice?

No. That is stupid advice. Don’t fill your boat with water. All it will do is get things wet that should not be wet. It will not replicate the pressure of the water pushing in somewhere from outside the hull and intruding into your boat. Do not do anything that person says, ever again.
 

Wolfgheist

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Aug 24, 2021
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I got my Bellow Kit, but it was mentioned that a Bellows Tube is better? Should I get that? If so, where? I am not having luck finding a bellows tube kit anywhere.
 
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