First attempt at boat repair

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Railcar

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

wood, If I email you an excel spreadsheet with all my measurements, could you look over my figures and see how far off I am? Keep in mind, I only have figures to the front bulkhead, I will not be removing the cap and doing the bow section floor till I get the rear section glassed.
 
Decker83

Decker83

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

Railcar there is some great info on resin and fiber glass on the sticky. How To's and Other Great Information
If you keep the MEKP cool and out of the sun it will last longer than 3 months.
The Teak looks amazing and the brass will set if off perfect.
 
R

Railcar

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

My new challenge, see if I can sand the entire rear section down in 1 work day. start no earlier than 6 AM, finish by 10 pm. With the stringers, do I need to resin soak the wood before laminating the stringers (doing 4 layers of ply) or can I do it after they are built?
 
jbcurt00

jbcurt00

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

You should probably send WOG a PM, he's on vacation :)

Railcar said:
My new challenge, see if I can sand the entire rear section down in 1 work day. start no earlier than 6 AM, finish by 10 pm. With the stringers, do I need to resin soak the wood before laminating the stringers (doing 4 layers of ply) or can I do it after they are built?
Click to expand...

If you are 'making' thicker & longer stringers by laminating multiple layers of thin plywood, staggering the joints, NO you do not want to soak the plywood w/ resin before gluing them together. Unless you're using epoxy or some other sort of resin AS THE LAMINATING GLUE.

W/ TiteBond3, gorilla glue, or PL, you will inhibit the glue's bond if you pre-treat the plywood w/ resin

Laminate the plywood, cut them to shape/fit. Then apply poly resin to them, both sides & all the edges. Allow the poly to tack off, NOT DRY, and apply a 2nd coat of resin, layup the CSM, fully wet it out & allow it to cure.

Using some drywall screws you can make 3 prong 'stands' to allow you apply resin to 1 side, flip the plywood part over onto the sharp pointed 3 prong stands, and hit all the edges & the 2nd side. This allows you to work both sides quickly for both 'coats' of resin & wetting out the CSM.

You will be applying more resin & glass to the stringers, transom & deck when you install them, so the small pinpricks from the stands are either covered w/ later applications or negligible.
 
Woodonglass

Woodonglass

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

JBC is spot on on laminating stingers. I like Titebond III screwed together and left to dry overnight, it will NOT delam. He is also correct that once you have the Dry Fit, remove em and coat with resin and as soon as it tacks up apply the CSM. Next day install em. and tab em in. I sent you a PM with my personal email address.
 
Trooper82

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

Just my personal two cents...I started out thinking I needed super thick sringers too...these Ebko's used a 3/4" ply stringer...with a 3/4" or 1" cleat on the top/side....I really think to make them thicker than 3/4" is overkill..but I'm no pro..or structural engineer...I just know that my deck/hull are rigid as all get out...
 
R

Railcar

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

I was thinking building my rear stringers like this, and the front stringers will be 2 ply instead of 4. Just wondering if I should use the poly resin to treat each layer before gluing them together, or glue them, and pre soak it before placing on the hull to seal out water.

as for my motor mounts, after evaluating the rot, and looking at what I have for space to deal with, I was thinking about 2 layers of 3/4 ply, capped with a 2x4, and using studs for the front motor mount, instead of drilling through and using bolt with a nut. I can seal the studs in the wood, and not have more palces for water to get inside.

Untitled.jpgUntitled1.jpg
 
Woodonglass

Woodonglass

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

Like I said, do NOT apply resin until you glue everything with Titebond III.
 
Yacht Dr.

Yacht Dr.

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

Woodonglass said:
Like I said, do NOT apply resin until you glue everything with Titebond III.
Click to expand...

Depends on the grade ply that is used ..

Personally .. yes I would resin coat every single piece of ply before even thinking about lamming stringers together. Wood glue .. um.. Never was even in the back of my mind doing structural lamming with wood glue.

Up to you guys here .. I use Resins to lam stringers or bulkies ( if needed ). Wood glue is out of my opinion.

Good luck and make sure that the Glass is Proper ..

YD.
 
Woodonglass

Woodonglass

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

Don't get confused. Using Titebond III on exterior grade plywood screwed and clamped will yield an extremely strong bond. This has been debated ad infinitum here on the forum. Yes you can lam the stringers and bulkheads with resin and csm if you wish. However, once they have been assembled with TB III and then coated with resin and CSM and then tabbed and glassed to the hull, they will be there for 40 years. Your decision but both methods are viable and will yield excellent results. YD is a pro and uses resin and glass on everything and in a PRO setting this is what prolly should be done. For DIY'ers like you and me the TB III method works extremely well and will not adversely affect your restoration in any way. Do some research on your own on the properties of TB III and make your own decision. One of the great things about this forum is you will get a lot of differing opinions. ON of the bad things about this forum is you'll get a lot of differing opinions. It's up to you to ferret out the one that works best for you as long as it's safe and sound. Both of these are!
 
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Railcar

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

the stringers that were in it were hit with resin, and it fell apart, Myself, I am going for stronger than stock, the 2 layer stringers are so I fill that mystery channel, and it make sit easy to lay in if I have some kind of guide to follow. not to mention giving me some space to tattach screws in, I am paranoid about trying to screw into a 3/4 end cut not splitting, and have grip in case the PL fails. Yes I will PL the deck to the glass when I attach the deck, I want this thing stronger than a battle ship. Weight is not that big of a deal, it has to be SOLID

I am going PL or TB3, strictly because I do not have any resin, and it wont be here till after christmas
 
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Railcar

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

yep that is the stuff right there.
 
Decker83

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

Railcar,
I think your over thinking the lamination. If you stop and think about it the plywood you are trying to laminate is glued together at the factory. If they thought it needed resin between the lams, don't you think they would have used it?
The Titebond III will bond the wood together as well as any factory glue will. Bottom line is the factory glue up of the plywood is whats in question and not how you glue the lam's together. Use the Titebond III and don't worry about it. A good glue up will make the wood break down before the glue joint will give up. \
Another thing about the stringers, they are not the strenght of the hull. The fiberglass around them is what gives all the strenght. They make stringers without wood at all now days. Some or even made with a type of foam. A good glass job is what you need to concentrate on and get right. \
Woodonglass has a great layup for the stringers and transom and deck.
 
GT1000000

GT1000000

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

Hi Railcar,

Been following along since the beginning, finally decided to post ...:)

Great looking project you got yourself, that is a snazzy looking boat...when you get it back to better than original looking condition, that is going to be a great family boat and quite the head turner...

I just wanted to let you know that whether or not I can actually help with your restoration, I will be along to cheer and support you on this road...;)

I have noticed time and time again, us crazy DIY boat restorers go through many of the same thought processes and confused decision making trials...

When we finally decide that this is the boat for us and we are going to do everything we can to bring it back to better than its former glory, we start to question ourselves whether or not this or that is possible, affordable, or feasible...

My issues have been somewhat the opposite of yours, but similar...hot rainy weather as opposed to freezing cold...should I use this instead of that...how can I possibly do this, under these conditions...?

All I can say is that with the awesome help and guidance of all of the super helpful guys here, solutions come up and problems get solved...sometimes they just take a little longer, but eventually we figure it out...

After all most of us have been through in this lifetime, we have learned a few tricks here and there to get by...

Hope this little rant of mine gives you some hope that it will all work out...

And BTW, looking good so far...don't get "paralysis by analysis"...remember if the Half-*****'d factory job lasted this long...how much longer is it going to last put back together better than before and lovingly cared for by its new owner...

Best Regards and most of all Have Fun!
GT1M
 
R

Railcar

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

Everyone here has been a huge help. Given my work schedule, I have 2 weeks where i think about what I am doing, and I always over think what I am doing. Everyone here keeps me grounded, and makes the 2-3 days I have to work WAY more productive. I have everything I need on hand when I start up, and I get more done when I get to going on it.


I am taking bids on finishing the project tho, if any of yall are interested, by the info on US composites, I wont be able to foam the hull till june or july.
 
jbcurt00

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Re: First attempt at boat repair

Your Menard's carries Arauco. It is worth the extra.

The treated CCX isn't, and is likely NOT kiln dried, it's heavy and likely to go all potato chip shaped when it warps....

BCX has significantly more grain & texture, and is fewer laminations (probably 5 layers VS 7 in the Arauco)

Any pieces of Arauco you have left over can be used to rebuild storage & consoles, and is a much finer grained plywood...

If you can get Arauco, I would. I can't get it reliably, even as special order.....
 
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