First attempt at boat repair

[Trooper82]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

Not in my case, just used in the valley of the hull for strenght I imagine....

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

the channel next to the stringers was clean, just full of water. when I redo them, that entire channel will be full of wood and PL, I am going to make the main stringers 1 1/2 (2 layers 3/4) and the back stringers 3" (4 layers 3/4 ply) All the bulkheads will be 2 layers 3/4. I am debating, rather than engineering new mounts, since the 4 cyl mounts so differently than the V* of troop, I am thinking out in 2 layers of 3/4, and top it with a 2x4, then put 2 studs through the 2x4 for the mount to go on.

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

got about an hour in the garage to myself today, and guess what I found in the valley, lining the ski locker

Look Familair Trooper? the stench coming off all that rotten balsa was able to overpower the smell of fresh cut glass.

I trimmed some more of the stringer remanants out, I will have to finish that off tomorrow. have to do a few more relief cuts, and take out the parts up to the front bulkhead, and I will be ready to start laying in stringers. I am going to bed stringers up to the front bulkhead, and possibly glass them up to a couple feet from the front bulkhead, then remove the cap and take out the front section. replace all that and put the cap back on.

 

[Trooper82]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

That stuff is a real pita to get out eh? Looks exactly like mine did..I was thinking it was after market, but guess it was factory....you will want to make sure and go back with atleast a layer of 1708 and CSM, maybe two... to keep the strength...good progress!

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

For the score of the week, I landed a PA system for $35, now the wife can page me instead of having to strip down out of my PPE , the other was Tool shop brand oscillating tool accessory kit. 3 half moon blades, 9 straight blades, sand paper, carbide cutter and rasp, diamond wheel, ect all for $13. i am going back tomorrow to get me another 2 or 3 kits, Half moon blades cost me $9.99 each

 

[Trooper82]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

Nice score....I found you can sharpen those blades..saves a little money...and make sure you get the HHS ones, not bimetal, they don't last the time it takes to mount them....

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

i figure while they are cheap, and the wife is buying, I am going to cash in. I can get 1 blade to cut for a while. they are the ones I have been using the whole time. Trying to figure what type of foam to use to replace the balsa core.

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

i did have and idea i wanted to bounce off all yall. What do you think rather than gel the floor and try to find clear sand to add grip, adding alot of time and cost, how about bedliner on the floor. It has texture, waterproof, and proven durable. It would only go on the floor, no where else.

 

[Trooper82]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

... Trying to figure what type of foam to use to replace the balsa core.

The 1708/CSM is what I used to replace the balsa..I was told the 1708 is newer/stronger than the balsa core was...and thinner to boot...

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

Bedliner is usually black and heavy.. Unless you are extremely confident you can properly prep & apply the DIY version, it can also be expensive.

Durabak is a commercially available anti-skid product for boats

Read thru Sleeper6's thread, he used Durabak

There's another iboats thread where they laid out a cross hatch pattern in the anti-skid, Durabak as well I think, but I can't find my bookmark for it.....

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

Durabak or Zolatone was what we were looking at. I was debating posting to the tinnys that I am going to bedline a boat just to get them fired up.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

i did have and idea i wanted to bounce off all yall. What do you think rather than gel the floor and try to find clear sand to add grip, adding alot of time and cost, how about bedliner on the floor. It has texture, waterproof, and proven durable. It would only go on the floor, no where else.

There's been a couple of tinny builds with bedliner on the decking that don't look too bad, but I'm not sure how that stuff would stick to a glassed in deck on a glass boat.

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...ebuild-tons-pics-paint-complete-541259-4.html

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...cing-floor-my-14-foot-starcraft-525129-3.html

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

by firing up the tinnys I was referemcing their hate of bedliner in the hulls, and JBs SC survivor boat. If properly prepped, I am sure the liner will stick. as far as weight, I took over 600 lbs of foam out. Just foam, not wood. I am sure a heavy liner wont make that big of difference.

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

got a bit more work done today. Doesnt look like much, but I finished off the stringers, and got ready to grind. Curosity got the better of me and I cut out the front bulkhead. Had to stop working, with all the water that ran out of the bow. front floor brace is rotten, I was able to push a used blade that deep into the wood.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

Yeah, when the water gets in, it gets pretty much everywhere below decks

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

I also kept up on varnishing. Another coat on the wheel, and seat trim, and I started varnish on the Ski Locker lid. I disassembled the entire lid, varnish on all sides, then I will put it back together, I figure 8-10 coats on each piece, scuff with 220 between coats.

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

compiling a list of materials I will need, 35 yd 1.5CSM, 18 yd 1708, and 15 yd 1708 tape, for tabbing. Not sure how much resin the 1708 takes per yard. I was figuring on 10 gal resin to start, get the CSM laid up, and then figure how much resin for the 1708, so I dont have MEKP go bad. I have figured my CSM will take 8.75 gal and the remaining 1.5 gal can be used to pre soak the wood before bedding.

For my fasteners, holding the Teak on the sides, I was thinking Brass, to give it a classy look, or do you all think Stainless would look better?

Also in stead of End Cut Balsa, I am considering lining the valley with CoreCell foam, to keep the strength and thicker keel. Any one ever tried this?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

Uhhmm, I think a 25 yd roll of CSM is sufficient for your size boat. What all are you planning on putting the 1708 on? 18 yds seems a bit much to me. You can use the Tape but you can also cut your own from the 1708 biax cloth. The amount of resin is a good start but you'll for sure need at least 5 gals more. Not sure I follow what you want to do with the foam???

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

I was thinking 2 layers of csm on the stringers, from what I have exposed already that is 2 @ 8"x120"x1.5" Motor mount and bulkheads I allowed 1 yard each for covering, and enough to glass 3 sheets of plywood csm both sides, and 1708 on top. 1708 tape is for tabbing, and repairs for the console. The CoreCell foam I was going to use to line the valley where the balsacore was. I debated leaving it out entirely, but I would really like that bit extra in the valley by the keel, a bit of an "insurance" policy if I ever have to beach her, or god forbid driftwood.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

Check the first link in my signature. It has drawings and details on what you are doing. I'd really recommend filling the void in the keel with wood and resin. That's just my opinion. Not saying you can't use the 1708 on the top of the deck but IMHO it's WAY overkill. If you use all that CSM and 1708 you will need a minimum of 20 gals of resin.