First attempt at boat repair

[jigngrub]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

I think its kinda crazy that some have come to a complete rebuild Idea of this boat just from the year alone where there is nothing suggesting that of yet on this boat.


YD.

I think it's kinda crazy you presume that eveything was based on the year alone, the OP has stated the boat has a soft deck and it needs to be repaired... and we all know what soft decks harbour, don't we?

We won't know the extent of the damage until the OP takes core samples and gives us the results... or at least pictures of the boat and bad areas.

I personally feel that the OP needs to know whatcould be wrong with his boat and what he needs to check for instead of being lead down a rosey little path and being told "Oh, that's ok... you can just put a band-aid on that and everything will be fine".

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

The soft spot is approx 1 sq foot area in front of the starbord jump seat. I only found it when I was crawling around with the shop back removing leaves from parking it under a tree for 2 weeks.


As for the deck, how do I tell what resin was uses to produce the hull? Ebko went under decades ago, so there isn't a factory to call.

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

Before I got into Engineering, I worked metal for over 12 years. Fiber cant be that much different than metal work. Cutting and grinding is nothing new, just new to the process for boats. If I have to do repairs below deck, I dont know if poly will work or not, so plan for worst hope for best. I really want to start buying supplies now. Might take a month or 2 for prep work, but it would be nice to have it all on hand when the time came.

I have read for days on how to replace the deck, and I have gotten more questions than answers. All I need is a cheap resin and cloth to replace the floor, and some idea as to how much to buy. I really dont want gallons of the stuff laying around forever, since I plan on keeping this boat for at most 3 years, then selling it off so I can upgrade to something built this century.

if you have metal work experiance this is a walk in the park as you proberly own the tools to do the job and you have scrap metal laying around so thats a head start. the first few steps are free to do and will help you decied if this is something that intrests you or something that needs to be scrapped out and forgot about. worst case is about $1200 on materials you need (glass work/foam). when people say 2-3k that includes tools, wood for frame work etc. the best idea is to tear into the floor and just keep going until you find where the rot ends and the good wood starts. all you need is some silicone to use as a temp patch in case you do find good wood. pull out the floor and drill test holes in the stringers and transom if you find good wood put silicone in the hole and carry testing. with the foam cut teeth on a plastic pipe and drill holes with the pipe into the foam so you can pull and plug and see if the foam is wet at the bottom (unless its been rebuit before it may not have any foam). once you have a idea of the size of the job then we can give you a material list for the glass/resin/extras you require. at some point you will decied if the boat is worth the effort and money hopefully before you spend any real money.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

The resin in your boat will be the marine grade polyester resin, pretty much the industry standard.

http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html

They use the cheapest stuff they can get by with to keep costs competitive and still stay within specifications.

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

as for the teak, I have tons of it on the boat, 6 solid teak trim strips, 8 teak steps on the gunwhales, and teak steps on the swim ladder. as for the wheel, anyone know how to get the teak to swell back up so I can re-varnish it, or should I just pitch it and get a different wheel? I will be logging like trooper did after I get a chance to get back home (next friday) with pics.

 

[Seasonally.boating.jon]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

More than likely, Railcar, I'd say it was poly.

If you really want to know if your boat is plauged with rott....... do the core samples.

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

The worst part of my job, I leave on mondays, 7 hour drive to the job site, and I am there till the following Wednesday or Thursday (10-11 days) then I get a couple hours a day to actually work. More time to think and ponder than actually work. I hope to start pulling up carpet and floor the 27th.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

The soft spot is approx 1 sq foot area in front of the starbord jump seat. I only found it when I was crawling around with the shop back removing leaves from parking it under a tree for 2 weeks.

The thing about the soft spot is that this is where the water has been "ponding" or accumulating because of the way the boat was parked/stored. It's like a drain in your sink and once the water goes through it, it keeps going down through the foam until it hits the inside of the hull. Then when it can't go down anymore it spreads out and the damaged area below the deck will be a much bigger area than the deck damage... especially if the PO left the bilge plug in when the boat was stored, which is what a lot of people do so the won't forget to put it in when they launch (very bad practice).

For the good news:

With all that teak trim, it sounds like your boat was once a very nice boat... and it can be a very nice boat again if you want to take the time to fix it.

Speaking of teak trim, a small conversation came up about restoring teak trim in this thread and I thought it was kind of interesting:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=574870&highlight=people+boat+launch

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

I think it's kinda crazy you presume that eveything was based on the year alone, the OP has stated the boat has a soft deck and it needs to be repaired... and we all know what soft decks harbour, don't we?

Um ..no he said a soft spot .. not soft DECK. You may know what soft decks harbor for every boat out there but I dont.

We won't know the extent of the damage until the OP takes core samples and gives us the results... or at least pictures of the boat and bad areas.

Then why did this thread go from asking simple questions to

Typically, a boat the age of yours is completely rotten below deck (that's why it was only $800) and will need a complete restoration and you're looking at putting $1500 to $2500 into it... but when you're finished you'll have a like new boat that is safe and seaworthy.

If you dont KNOW then why say anything to freak the poster out ?

I personally feel that the OP needs to know what could be wrong with his boat and what he needs to check for instead of being lead down a rosey little path and being told "Oh, that's ok... you can just put a band-aid on that and everything will be fine".

Who ever suggested a "rosy little path thrown in with some band-aid fixes" ??

So your saying that we here at the best forums on the planet need to start saying " Soft spot in floor .. um..could be a total gut out job just to let you know " ?

This is Railcars thoughts after you posted mate ..

so basically I got a motor that is good, and the rest can pretty well be junked? seems a bit rediculous to dump $2500 into repairing the deck and another 900 or so to replace seats and cushons on a 34 year old boat, when I could get a mid 90s bayliner capris 2050 cuddy for around $3500.

Im just saying chill out the OMG its probably rotten and your in for a long haul and tons of work and $ posts ( this is not specifically YOU .. but some of the other members here as well ).

I only posted ONE time .. got slammed ( I dont like that ) and methodically stepped out what needs to happen for us to proceed.

I am one of only a FEW members here that are actually Professional Fiberglass Techs that come to this board to help out the DIYers. I have been doing this for many years and can see things that Most cant.

Now after the OP posted more info your backing off a bit .. and your taking my thoughts with the teak and all into your own suggestion where you should have SEEN that to begin with.

That was my point in my post above ..

I suggest that We need to slow down on such presumptions ( not including Cadwelder because he has his post spot on ) that we send this hull into the Full resto graveyard.

Please let us not Derail Railcars' project just yet ..

YD.

Railcar .. Most likely you have polyester resin .. cant be sure because of the nature of the build of the boat.

Pics mate .. pics.

PS. If you decide to sell it give me a PM ..

PSS. I hope this post does not get deleted .

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

It is easy to get overwhelmed when you can't be there to check on things, and people start talking huge money for repairs. I have 4 kids so money is a bit of an issue, as it is for most people. Besides the deck, I have to replace all the seat cushons (10 cushons 2 jump seats, port and starboard back to back seats, due to bad vinyl) and replace a few items in the dash. I got a bot worked up and I apologize. I have read forums non stop since labor day, reading on minor repairs, and find a soft spot that could add $3000+ to an already tight budet kind of makes you wonder if it is worth the troubles involved. I read all 80 pageant of troopers build, same brand and year as mine, and have some ideas now. Just takes time that I may not have, and apparently heat will be an issue ( we have gotten to -38 ambient in the last 3 years) so I need to find out about heat. I wish there was a local place to get this done, but the local marina doesn't want to see a boat built before 1990.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

I wasn't trying to scare you RC, was just trying to let you know what it would probably be... the motto are around here when first digging into an older ill maintained fiberglass boat is "Be prepared for the worst, but hope for the best".

We see lots of threads like yours and they are mainly typical... a soft spot on the deck and everything below deck shot to hell.

You may get lucky and it may just be your starboard stringer rotted and foam saturated, and your transom may be "sound as the pound"... but I wouldn't count on it or get my hopes up.

As for my statement pertaining to: "When you buy an older and ill maintained fiberglass boat all you're paying for is the motor trailer and a fiberglass shell"... this is usually one of the first things told to a newbie with problems such as yours, and it's pretty much the truth.

If you don't have time to repair this boat properly I suggest you sell it for what you paid for it and look into purchasing a used aluminum boat. They're much easier and quicker to work on... and cheaper too.

... but if you really like this boat and want to invest the time, I think it will be a thing of beauty when you finish with it.

Fiberglass boats are sexy if you have the time... but aluminum is kick-azz durable!!!

You've seen Troopers resto thread, his boat didn't look too bad at first glance... but when he started to dig... OMG OMG OMG!!! You shouldn't expect any less... but you can hope for better.

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

I have posted an album to Picasa with photos of the boat. Progress will be updated, but far more pics on the picasa site.

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

I got the carpet removed, and got a start at assessing damage. TRANSOM IS OK!!!!! yeah I dont have to do that, but the floor of course is worse.

and even worse news by the motor.

port side motor mount looks ok

but core shows nasty

and seeing that the motor is already ripping the fiber, I didnt even bother coring this side.

Now I have to figure out How do you do glasswork when it is sub zero in an uninsulated garage.

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

also how in the H#() do you cut the floor out of a Tri-Hull without cutting clear through the whole hull?

 

[Trooper82]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

.....Now I have to figure out How do you do glasswork when it is sub zero in an uninsulated garage.

I read somewhere that oops! used heaters right on the area he was glassing, but don't take my word for it...just a diy'er here...

Your deck really doesn't look that bad from the pics...

checked out your pics...they bring back alot of memories...alot of what you have on your boat I had in mine...consoles are almost identical...I see you have the cigerette lighter too...but didn't see your ashtrays...mine came with 2 one on each side...

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

i had one on the port, but I pulled it already. the fiber has delam from the ply, and the floor has a crunch on the starboard. Calling the local boat guy to see if he can pull the engine when he winterizes it, making it easier to get the floor up.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

I read somewhere that oops! used heaters right on the area he was glassing, but don't take my word for it...just a diy'er here...

Keep the unmixed supplies inside somewhere that's heated, until just before you pour & mix them. You can tent the hull around the area you need to work on, and heat just enough area for you to work comfortably (large enough SPACE) and let it warm up for a bit. May be as short as getting set up to pour & mix resin somewhere close. Space heat the general area around the boat & where you'll mix. If you keep the resin warm inside & heat the area you're working on, the resin can be tricked into kicking even if you are working outside, as long as you're tented & heat the supplies & the work site. Poly resin & glass can be laid up wet on wet, and the chemical reaction will warm the resin as it kicks as well.

I think poly resin & glass cures as 1 thicker and stronger layer, instead of individual layers, when you do wet on wet layups.

Oops hull extension thread has a helpful index on pg1 and lots of great info

Same w/ Don's Helpful How to thread

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

with the wood parts, I plan on soaking them down with the poly iin my basement, and the glassing on them can be done in the basement too. when it comes time to put them in the hull, and tab, i hope to have it all figured out by then. Might be able to float her next spring??

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

with the wood parts, I plan on soaking them down with the poly iin my basement, and the glassing on them can be done in the basement too.

Might need to revisit the basement poly resin plan. Although it kicks fast, poly resin has styrene in it, its extremely noxious, and the odor lingers even after the resin kicks. The Admiral complaints about the smell, may be the least of the basement work plan problems....

 

[Railcar]

Re: First attempt at boat repair

Admiral, she has just gione Emperor on me. Her friend is getting married, and we leave in an hour. I am still monkeying with the boat. Worst part she found out just how bad the damage is. She remembers when we looked at the boat asking the repair tech at the marina about the floor, and the internals, and he swore they were solid. I found another set of core holes drilled by the marina. wet soggy mess. Now she is going to ask the local boat guy if he knows where we can get the floor replaced, so she can be certain that it is done right.