Finnish fishing boat overhaul [Splashed 2017]

[Red Herring]

Yeah, makes sense. I was a bit surprised how big these switches were. But I think your design looks really good as it is, and I'd be honored to use it! Just let me know how I can repay you for the favor!

I'm still a bit on the fence on some of the labels and the font, but I guess those can be easily changed later.

If you have some suggestions on better switches/certain leds then please feel free to let me know!

 

[gm280]

Yeah, makes sense. I was a bit surprised how big these switches were. But I think your design looks really good as it is, and I'd be honored to use it! Just let me know how I can repay you for the favor!

I'm still a bit on the fence on some of the labels and the font, but I guess those can be easily changed later.

If you have some suggestions on better switches/certain leds then please feel free to let me know!

Red, you've already paid me many time over with your procedures. That is enough for me. You shown me things and how you do things that is more then payment in my book. If I can help in any way, I would be more then glad to do so. Once you get everything like you really want it, let me know the items you selected and the fornt you like, and I will provide you with a total package that most any trophy shop can use without any problems. I know how to do that because my wife used to run a LASER engraving shop and did it for years. So we bought a large professional bed LASER and make such things a lot. JMHO

 

[Red Herring]

My electrician/mentor confirmed just now that everything seems ok. So the wording is all good (a slight typo on bilge pump though).

I could send you the font, it's called Akkurat bold and it's almost indistinguishable from the one used now but there's a sliiight difference. I'll see if I can find your email.

Thanks a million! You made my day.

 

[Red Herring]

And one last thing, could someone give me a tip on what kind of leds I should get? There are a million different choices and I've no idea what I'm doing

Are these ok? (8mm mounting hole, straight leads to connect to etc)

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/50/MPC5XX-880310.pdf

 

[gm280]

And one last thing, could someone give me a tip on what kind of leds I should get? There are a million different choices and I've no idea what I'm doing

Are these ok? (8mm mounting hole, straight leads to connect to etc)

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/50/MPC5XX-880310.pdf

Red, I'e already changed to the Akkurat font and corrected my misspelling error. One thing I am pitiful on is spelling. So make sure you proof everything I post. If those are the LED's you like, that they will work. I will fit the panel for their openings. Once I get the panel near final, I will post it in your boat project for you to see. And if you want or need anything changed, no problem. I use a few different computer programs to do this pretty easily. But once I post the actual file you will use, it is pretty much a final. And that is because it will already be configured for rastering and vectoring on a LASER Engraver at that time. JMHO

 

[Red Herring]

Yihaa! The only thing I don't get with the leds is this forward current and forward voltage stuff, I'll keep researching and I'll probably figure it out

These are apparently 12v with a 20mA forward current:

http://www.mouser.fi/ProductDetail/Apem/Q8P1BXXY12E/?qs=AhKu78OgHinY2iHwA3EqEQ==

​

 

[redneck joe]

i may have missed where this this is going, but remember to keep cabin lights down for night driving.

 

[gm280]

Red, seriously they only thing you really need to know is that they will work on 12 volts without additional current limiting resistors. The forward current listed is merely the amount of current they will use at that voltage. But .020 amps (20ma) is very little and not a problem. In fact at 20ma they could be pretty bright in a dim or darken area. But if that is a problem, It isn't hard to fix either.

 

[Red Herring]

Check thanks!

 

[gm280]

Okay Red, here is the latest layout with the parts you selected this far. These are the exact switches and LEDs and they are to actual scale not actual size.

I changed the font to your Akkurat and fixed the misspelled "bilge" word and spaced things out as best they can go. I even dadoed (curved) in the grouping line to allow for the mounting screws. So see what you think and if you don't care for it, no harm no foul.


It still stays within your panel max dimensions and everything fits...but barely.

 

[Pusher]

Okay Red, here is the latest layout with the parts you selected this far. These are the exact switches and LEDs and they are to actual scale not actual size.

I changed the font to your Akkurat and fixed the misspelled "bilge" word and spaced things out as best they can go. I even dadoed (curved) in the grouping line to allow for the mounting screws. So see what you think and if you don't care for it, no harm no foul.


It still stays within your panel max dimensions and everything fits...but barely.

That's better than professional! You're the MAN GM! I only wish I needed a panel now. I like how you did the contour around the mounting screws.

Red, with your design and GM's experience this panel is looking great!

 

[Red Herring]

Very nice! Couldn't be better. I think it fits perfectly with the old and new on the dash!!!

 

[gm280]

Well I 'm glad you like it. Remember though that the left side of this setup only has a very little panel covering the switch bodies behind it. And that means you will have to make a very closely fitted opening for it. I am looking for similar toggle switches that are quality marine types but with smaller bodies to give you more room. Also, if you only need SPST versions, that could help as well. So let me do some searching and see what I can find. If all else fails, you can make this panel just like is it. Just saying. JMHO

 

[Red Herring]

Heh, I just ordered & paid for the carlings st's. 9 single spst (spelling?) and one "on off on" dpst. I can live with the tight tolerance.

 

[Red Herring]

What I was trying to write was that I just finished the order for the switches before I saw your last message Gm...

 

[gm280]

What I was trying to write was that I just finished the order for the switches before I saw your last message Gm...

Okay not a problem. Just that everything is tight, but will work all the same. :thumb:

 

[Red Herring]

And oops. The first leds I posted are apparently not rated for 12v, the max is somewhere around 3v apparently. So the later ones I posted ought to be better, or can I use the ones coming in?

Thanks again, and excuse my constant questions

 

[gm280]

And oops. The first leds I posted are apparently not rated for 12v, the max is somewhere around 3v apparently. So the later ones I posted ought to be better, or can I use the ones coming in?

Thanks again, and excuse my constant questions

The latest panel design I posted were the last LED's you said you liked. So I once again went to the websight and retrieved the actual mechanical drawings and made the panel for those LED's. If you already bought another LED design, I need to know which ones so I can make the proper changes for them. Not that hard to do.

Also, when you do get the switches in, I need to see an actual picture of what type you bought, The reason is they provide three different mounting setups depending on which ones you selected. So again, I just need to see a picture of the switches and LED's so I can reconfigure the panel for them if necessary.

This is really easy compared to some of the massive panel drawings I've had to reconfigure for other large projects. When you are designing for large businesses or the Air Force, you some times have to made changes every day or more. And their changes would really take a lot of time because they would trickle down to assembly drawings and such. So one tiny change would take 20 or 30 drawing of reworks. So this is really a piece of cake. JMHO

 

[Red Herring]

Ok damn, there was a 6? price difference between the leds, so I opted for the cheaper ones and thought you used them in the drawing. But I can easily get the more expensive ones as well.

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/50/MPC5XX-880310.pdf

These are the ones.

And here are the switches:

http://www.mouser.fi/Search/m_Produc...=691-STA1E1-53

On-offs


https://www.mouser.com/api/CrossDoma...rPrefSub=False

On-off-on (wiper)

 

[gm280]

Ok damn, there was a 6€ price difference between the leds, so I opted for the cheaper ones and thought you used them in the drawing. But I can easily get the more expensive ones as well.

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/50/MPC5XX-880310.pdf

These are the ones.

And here are the switches:

http://www.mouser.fi/Search/m_Produc...=691-STA1E1-53

On-offs


https://www.mouser.com/api/CrossDoma...rPrefSub=False

On-off-on (wiper)

Well I used those LED's in the latest drawing I posted. So we are good to go there. However, I still need a picture of your switch(s) when you receive them. If you scan down on the mechanical drawings, you will see three different mounting types. And until I see which ones are on your switches, I can't finish up the cutout sections for them. Nothing will change on the front, only the actually cutout areas will possibly change.