esa question

[MRS]

I have ordered carb rebuilt kits and they are not the right parts so I am done with the order on line looking for a good hod rod shop that will do it right.

 

[MRS]

anybody ever ordered from [h=1]MARINE CARBURETOR before.[/h]

 

[Lou C]

Your carb should have a Rochester # on the side of the carb body, you should be able to get parts using that #.
try https://quadrajetparts.com/carbureto...s-c-72_73.html
call them and order using the # on the carb. Only way to get the right kit.

 

[WakeWarrior]

Having the same issues. Going to go through wiring tonight and verify all connections.

I bit of back-ground, just finished and engine swap and all runs great with the exception of forward to neutral and reverse to neutral. I have verified the switches work and I do not get a stutter out of the engine when I manually actuate the switch or ground the esa input with a wire. I have an '88 Barretta with a '93 4.3l, 2bbl carb and the petronix electronic pickup.

My question is this, going to bypass the esa as one last check before spending the $100 on a new one if it's not needed. With that, do I need to use the diodes and resistors I'm currently using because of the electronic pickup?
Also, I've read where others say that this has the potential to ruin the outdrive, does anyone have a reason for this if it's only used to come out of gear and it momentarily stalls the engine rather than stutter the engine?

Thanks in adavnce for any and all help.

 

[Lou C]

Call the tech guy at CDI electronics, he will tell you how to make it work with the Petronix. I kept the points just to be able to keep using the original OMC ESA system which works well as long as your shift cable is not sticky and your adjustments are on the money. The OMC system to me is superior than the Merc system or 'wiring it like a Merc' because the module will lower the idle down to 450 rpm but will not stall the engine, as long as its in good tune and the carb is clean and properly adjusted. I had no trouble getting my 4.3 with either carb (the original Rochester Quadrajet or the Holley 4160 that replaced it this year) I used over the years to get it to not stall at that speed. I'd much rather have this system than the risk of stalling if your shift takes a few sec too long....

 

[WakeWarrior]

Thanks for the reply.

 

[WakeWarrior]

I'll contact CDI and do a little more research, definitely want to keep the OEM equipment, just trying to get a better understanding of what and how it works.

 

[WakeWarrior]

Went through the wiring last night to the ESA, found a loose connection in the plug to the switches. Need to replace the plugs, but a whole lot cheaper than a new ESA module.

Trip the switch and the RPM's drop from 650 to about 425 on my hand held digital tach. I'll put it in the lake this weekend and verify the cables are adjusted correctly. I have found this site very helpful thus far, thanks to all the members.

 

[Lou C]

That is how its supposed to work, good luck with the water test.

 

[MRS]

Lou C, I just ordered the kit from the link you sent Thanks. I sure hope it works if not looking for a carb. with the right linkage Thanks again.

 

[WakeWarrior]

Went to the lake this weekend, shifted like a dream. May have some fine tuning to do but I think I'll leave it like it is for now until I run a few more shift cycles to get a feel for it. Drivers seat is falling apart and is uncomfortable to sit in because of the angle and lack of height it has due to age and rot, will now be mt main focus. Time to make her shine again. Or at least glow. lol

 

[MRS]

OK ordered the carb kit and set the dry float and the drop float setting right to spec's the power piston was loose not peened in enough I guess was loose. hope to have carb on in a few days and give it a test.Been working a lot of ot.. so more funds for the boat will report back when carb is back on. Thanks again for all the help and support man I miss the water.

 

[PITBoat]

Possible, tach probs can cause running issues. Try disconnecting the tach connection and see what happens.

Really? I'm new to boats and not understanding this whole ESA thing real well, but the tach thing comes as a surprise to me. Does the tach actually have to correctly feed info. back to another component for all this to work properly? Mine didn't work at all on my last outing. At least it didn't display anything. Sorry if I'm hijacking here...

 

[MRS]

Ok got the right drop setting set and the dry setting right on spec's. So now how do I stake the power piston assy. in the right way I do have a small chisel is that the way to do it it was loose when I took the carb. a part. Plus I have cleaned the heck out of the carb so it is ready to put back together.

 

[Lou C]

MRS can you post a pic of what you are working on, I have not had a Rochester 2bbl apart so I am not familiar with the rebuild process. I just rebuilt my '88 Rochester Quadrajet after having fits trying to get a new Holley 4160 to work, no matter what I did it would not run right (very rich idle, surging, etc). Finally pulled it off and going to sent it back to Holley. I had heard the Q-Jet was difficult to rebuild properly but that was not the case. It is a little tricky to get the metering rods lined up when replacing the air horn but other than that, it is not bad at all. And it runs, 150% better than with the brand new Holley! Wish I did not listen to the Q-Jet detractors and did that first!

 

[MRS]

Lou C, perfect timing I have been working all thru the labor day holiday off tomorrow so back on the boat. The power piston was lose when I took the carb. apart instructions say to lightly stake the casting around the washer just not sure how to do it with a small punch or screw driver? Even checked on u tube but they do not show just say stake it.

 

[Lou C]

I linked your question to www.thehulltruth.com and asked some of the guys over there...I looked in my '88 factory OMC shop manual and it says: install power piston into the vacuum cavity. Lightly stake the piston retaining washer in place. Top of retaining washer must be flush with casting. Piston must travel freely in cavity after reassembling. I'm going to try to scan a pic from the manual....

 

[Lou C]

Hope this helps...

 

[MRS]

Thanks Lou but it still did not show how to stake it I did see what you sent me. Carb is all together now and clean I did find the pump assy. arm was in reverse of what it should have been the pump arm was hitting the side of the carb. fixed that. Draining the fuel/water filter now to make sure it is clean and water free.

 

[froggy1150]

Imagine that washer is a diamond in a setting. You want to fold over the metal to hold it. I would use a 1/16" drift punch for that. Round and flat on end. 1 or 2 gentle hits at a slight Angle to push the metal over the washer then 1 or two square ones to make it flat .... times 3 or 4. A screw driver will work. Just need to hold washer in without damaging anything