Yep you are correct about the stern side of the hull. It's obvious they used it for filler.....water intrusion into this cavity came from the transom. It's a pretty sizable void to fill with resin and chopped strand alone. I'm thinking of cutting some UHMW polyethylene strips to use as filler. I have plenty of scrap, and resin is expensive. I also have another chine area that's under the stringers that I need to fill before installing the stringers.
At least that's my thought. Try to minimize as much wood as possible. I thought about using the foam insulation sheets as filler pieces. I put some resin on a test piece and the resin ate it instantly. So that won't work!!
Forgot to answer tpenfield second question. I absolutely will be building up the areas I ground out. 1708 will be used for the build up. Though the hull is incredibly thick, I'll put it back the way it was before water made its way between the layers.
Forgot to answer tpenfield second question. I absolutely will be building up the areas I ground out. 1708 will be used for the build up. Though the hull is incredibly thick, I'll put it back the way it was before water made its way between the layers.
Polystyrene foam and poly resins don't get along, as you now know. So, it is either urethane foam for poly resin, or epoxy resin for polystyrene foam. The problem is that urethane foam boards, etc., tend to be wicked expensive as compared to polystyrene sheets.
Polystyrene foam and poly resins don't get along, as you now know. So, it is either urethane foam for poly resin, or epoxy resin for polystyrene foam. The problem is that urethane foam boards, etc., tend to be wicked expensive as compared to polystyrene sheets.
Definitely NOT using epoxy resin. I am totally "all in" committed to polyester resin. I already have my supplies and my plans. I used UHMW polyethylene plastic in a few areas with great success. I'm planning on using strips of it as filler bedded in thickened resin with strands to help fill the chine areas. I've already used it as a backer for my bow hook and it worked well. That's the plan anyway.....
Looking over your build brings back so many memories... or PTSD. :laugh: Lots of humid 100 degree days under a tarp with all the fiberglass dust stuck to me. But looking great man. I'll be following along checking up on your build. I'm on my home stretch. Any questions just let me know.
Haha that's just awesome way to clean your boat. I was using gardening hose in my garage and I must say your system is way more advanced (...and manly) :laugh:
I put a fan in the boat to help dry last night. After 24 hours there was still a slight wet spot near the transom. Any guesses as to why????
Those of you who said more wood......correct. Dug out a wet strip of plywood on the starboard side. It was easy to remove since it was wet. I also started to remove the same stuff on the port side. It was dry, but I'm taking it out anyway. The dry stuff is way harder to remove.
Looks like a tad more grinding before I'm on to the layups. One step forward, two steps back. But it's getting done right, and that's what counts.
This all looks so familiar. I'm a little ahead of you but haven't even uncovered the boat in two months. Wish I had an inside area to work in. It's almost 60 degrees here in the high desert of New Mexico and I can see I will be getting back to her soon. Looks great! Keep plugging away at it.
Well, second time saying this: GRINDING COMPLETE!!! Got home tonight and donned the PPE. Ground out all the wood and fiberglass from the strake I found a couple days ago. This one is much thinner and will need to be thickened. My plan was to fill the strakes anyway, so no big deal. Once done I took another trip to the car wash to get rid of all fiberglass dust. No pics this time......I'm pretending it didn't happen.
Glued in a CPVC pipe along the keel. Chaparral used thin strips of wood from the factory. The CPVC will have PB filets and covered in 1708. I'll also be using this same pipe as bilge drainage through each bulkhead.
Hey BC how is any water supposed to enter the pipe? It's only got 2 openings? If you put pour in foam in won't it fill the openings? If you use slab foam the pipe will still be open but again. Only really one way for it to get into the pipe and its all the way aft. What I'm saying is I don't think it's gunna be of much use for drainage.
Hey BC how is any water supposed to enter the pipe? It's only got 2 openings? If you put pour in foam in won't it fill the openings? If you use slab foam the pipe will still be open but again. Only really one way for it to get into the pipe and its all the way aft. What I'm saying is I don't think it's gunna be of much use for drainage.
Lol WOG! Good question. Lemme esplain....It's serving two purposes, replacing the wood in the bow, and drainage. I will be using a drill bit, or small holesaw to make penetrations in it just forward of every bulkhead, of which there will be 3. In this boat there was no foam at all in any space between the stringers. This was due to the fuel tank and ski locker. The foam was on the outsides of the stringers only, which I will be replacing. I can't think of a way to adequately put drainage in the foam cavities so my plan is to keep them sealed. Part two of that plan is to not let any water get in there in the first place.
I appreciate you stopping by and PLEASE keep commenting if you think I'm screwing up somewhere. I try to plan everything out but what's in my head doesn't always translate well.
Transom wood in and clamped!! Happy Day!! Picture of my clamp holder.....a family that fiberglasses together, stays together!!! Atleast that's how I heard it.
