Century Coronado restore

Woodonglass

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Well... Personally, I'm with you on this one. I LOVE natural wood. I DON'T like the maintenance either but...in the long run it's worth it. Grandkids, neighborhood kids, or somebody has to be available to help out with those mundane chores that us "Seasoned Sailors" just can't get around to any longer!!!:D;):lol:
 

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I finally finished the transom (I think) but I'm a little concerned after looking at this picture as it did not cure as clear as I have seen on other rebuilds. The first layer of 17 oz. biax that I applied about a month back dried much clearer as did the 17 oz. biax perimeter tabbing that I did a couple weeks ago. This picture is about 20 hours after I applied the final full overlay this weekend. The cloth looked as if it was fully wet out and I checked carefully for air pockets and rolled the few that I could find out with a bubble buster roller. The picture has some funky lighting going on and I did not get any impression of any problems when I took the picture so I hoping it has something to do with camera operator error rather than epoxy glassing operator error. Now I have to anxiously wait till I can get back up to the camp this weekend to get a better look.


The seat frames and motor box on the old girl were pretty much rotted at the bases so I have been rebuilding that stuff so that I can get them upholstered before summertime. I have a good friend that does boat covers, enclosures and upholstery and he told me that he can do them for me at the boating buddy price (cost of materials, beer and a little more if I aggravate him or get in the way). He avoids doing the upholster work in the spring and summer once he gets real busy with the canvas work (where he makes his money). Anyway, I have completed the motor box, the drivers seat and the jump seat that sits between the driver and the motor box.

Here is what the old motor box looked like. You can clearly see that it rotted where it had been in contact with the carpeted floor for 25 years. This was typical of the seat bases also.


Here is a picture of the "chamfered" corners of the new box. The manufactured used a bunch of staples along the inside corners to hold them together where the corners were simply left open and then hidden with the vinyl covering. I chose to make it a good bit stronger and filled the corners with hairy PB then put a layer of my 17 oz biax over the entire corner just for good measure. I was not too concerned with looks since the vinyl will eventually cover it.


This shows how the jump seat and motor box mate up.


I am using MDO for all of the interior at the recommendation of my canvas buddy. He has been using it for seat frames and such for many years and says it holds up really well (plus he gets a discount on the stuff). I can see where the resin coated surfaces have quite the benefit over outdoor plywood but I am still planning on sealing up all of the edges with epoxy resin. There will also be exposed areas such as the under seat storage that will be visible and would like to paint to give them a more "finished" look so if anyone has any paint recommendations I would really like to hear them.

Finally, I am thinking that before I do my next boat project that I should probably spend a little time making a good work bench and tool storage area :lol:
 

Woodonglass

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I know that transom work was tedious and a real PITA to do, but WOW, I mean just WOW!!! :eek::D With proper Care and Maintenance that thing will be like new 50 years from now!!!!
 

89 resorter

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I got back to working inside the boat making and fitting new stringers and bulkheads this weekend and I realized that I need to repair a few grind through holes before I go too much further. How do I go about this repair? its hard to see from the picture but the hole is in a pretty tight corner of one of the chines. The other side will be gel coated so I am planning on using poly for the repair.

 

Woodonglass

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Eazy Smeazy!!! Grind and feather the inside just a bit and wipe down with acetone. Tape off the outside with some wax paper and duct tape. Fill the inside with a bit of PB and smooth Then cut a Long oval piece of CSM 1" larger than the hole and lay it down with resin then immediately put down a 1" larger oval piece of 1708 and finish up with one more 2"" larger piece of 1708. DONE!!! On the outside, when you're ready grind and feather, 2 layers of CSM, Sand with 60 grit. Mix up some fairing material to fair and smooth. I make my own with Resin and Glass Bubbles to the consistency of Mayonaise 1% MEKP. Then 3-4 coats of matching gelcoat, wetsand and polish. DONE!!! Old Dumb Okie Methods...Others may vary!!!:eek::D;)
 
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PatinIdaho

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Finally, I am thinking that before I do my next boat project that I should probably spend a little time making a good work bench and tool storage area :lol:

I don't have a garage. That looks like my back yard usually! Well till the wife starts in on me anyway, then i got to stop all the fun
By the way NICE JOB your doing!!
 

89 resorter

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Thanks again WOG!.......your "Old Dumb Okie Methods" have served me well up to this point so I have no reason to doubt them at this point (although I have to admit that chain and hot soapy water thing for cleaning the fuel tank did have me wondering, but even that ended up working like a charm :D).

PatinIdaho ..... thanks for the support. My wife also makes me clean up the mess from time to time which is probably the only thing that keeps me off of one of them Hoarder reality shows.
 

Woodonglass

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Believe it or not my Uncle took an old Car Gas Tank one time and Used Bike inner tubes to strap it to a John Deere tractor wheel, Jacked up the wheel and put her in gear with the opposite wheel locked down. let the wheel spin round and round with that tank strapped to it and that chain inside for about and hour. Seems like he had some nuts and bolts in there too!!! That thing came out shiny and like new!!!
 

89 resorter

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I finally feel like I'm making some progress on the Coronado. First, the fuel tank pressure tested good so I decided to bring it into work and have it powder coated. This picture shows the finished product. It rained the day I picked it up and the swirls are from grim that I tried to wipe off quick before taking the picture.


My buddy also finished all of the upholstery. I think it turned out great although it is going to be quite awhile before I have a boat to put it in.




I also got the outer stringers and bulkheads PB'ed in place and I hope to get started tabbing them to the hull next weekend. I kept all dimensions exactly the same as original but looking back, I should have moved the bulkheads in front of the transom toward the bow another 4-6 inches to give me room to tab the stringers. Once I started cutting the biax for tabbing yesterday afternoon I finally figured out why these stringers were not tabbed to the transom by the manufacturer. Oh well, I guess that I am about to learn how to apply tabbing in very tight areas.


 

Woodonglass

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WOW that Looks like a NEW tank!!!! Is your buddy a Pro or just do upholstery as a hobby?
 

89 resorter

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He is a Pro that started 15 years or so back with boat canvas and progressed into upholstery over the last 5 or 6 years. I figured that between his talents and the deal he made me there was no reason for me to attempt to learn how to sew.
 

Woodonglass

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Uhmmm Yeah!!! It kinda looked like it wasn't his first Rodeo!!! Hurry up and get this thing done!!!! I'm getting excited for you!!!:joyous:
 

89 resorter

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Sill plugging away on the Coronado. I finished glassing the outer stringers and the stringers in front of the main bulkhead.



Now that all of the stringers that the floor mount to are in I figured I would get the last bit of grinding out of the way and remove the lip of the floor I left attached to the hull. With most of the stringers in the boat, I was able to remove the hull supports under the trailer and pull the boat outside for the first time in almost two years.... and more importantly, keep the dust outside.



I'm now getting the engine mount stringers fabricated..... they are bout 16' long and made up of two pieces of 3/4" ply sandwiched together the entire length and will then get another two 3/4" pieces bout 60" long where the motor sits. I was happy that my measurements were pretty close for the first one and I only had to lift it in and out of the boat twice.....hopefully the second one goes as smooth.



I do have a question...... The keel stringer in front of the bulkhead and the majority of the engine mount stringers will be visible and I would like to cap them but I can't picture being able to go over top of them with the 17 oz. biax I am using to tab the stringers. I plan to glass the floor when I get that far and was wondering what the recommended fabric weight to use for that on an epoxy rebuild and would that also work to cap the stringers?
 

89 resorter

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Its been awhile since my last post but I have been getting some time here and there to work on the boat. I almost had the stringers all glassed in but ran out of 17oz. biax before I could get a second layer on the center stringers so I switched gears and began working on fitting up the floor panels. I'm hoping to place one last order to USC for everything I need to finish the stringers and floor but would like some feedback first to make sure I'm ordering the right stuff. My plan is to epoxy coat both sides of the floor panels, screw & glue them down, PB / fillet them to the hull, tab with 17oz. biax (6" to hull and 6" to floor) then coat top side with 6 oz. fabric. I also need to cap over the top of the center stringers and I am thinking that 6 oz. fabric would be okay for that too???

New stringers in place (still need to finish one layer on the inside of the center stringers)


Floor panel layout coming together (I am looking forward to working on a flat surface)


 

89 resorter

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Thanks for watching Willyclay. Hopefully the temps will continue to cooperate and I can keep working and posting.
 

89 resorter

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Arawak, I appreciate the compliment but have to admit that it all looks much better in the pics than it does in real life. My short time working with fiberglass has taught me that PB and my grinder can help hide a lot of my measurement mistakes ;).

Thanks for following along

Dave
 

89 resorter

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I got all of the floor pieces fitted and cut this past weekend and If all goes well, I should be able to get them epoxy coated this week and ready to install next weekend. It just dawned on me, however, that I am not sure what type of glue to use :confused:. Both the tops of the stringers and the bottom of the floor will be coated in epoxy so I am not sure if PL glue be compatible with the epoxy. If so, what will the best grade of PL to use? Or perhaps there is a better glue???
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Mix up some epoxy pb and use that .... That would give you plenty of working time ...
 
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