The drive was never removed....
Who swaps an engine without dropping the drive??? I just don't think it is possible. :facepalm:
It is possible, but why you would want to do it is beyond me! I have read on here time and again where people act as if they are afraid to remove the outdrive. And I always say, "it'll be the easiest part of the whole job (engine change)."
Yep, 3 minutes!![]()
my friend has been swapping motors in boats for years both personally and professionally. The motor was disconnected and pulled out in under an hour and it was put in the same way. Drive left in place. Bucket loader and chain. ...
my friend has been swapping motors in boats for years both personally and professionally. The motor was disconnected and pulled out in under an hour and it was put in the same way. Drive left in place. Bucket loader and chain. Slid right in after turning the prop a hair and bolted up. No smells, leaks or anything out of the ordinary. I did have trouble timing it. Would only reach 4800 and top speed of 14. After advancing the timing 38 degrees it now reaches 5000 rpm but will not plane out.
Anyone remember Jeff Goldblum's response to the quote in the second Jurassic Park movie where the old man says, "we won't make the same mistakes this time."? It applies here, I think.![]()
my friend has been swapping motors in boats for years both personally and professionally. The motor was disconnected and pulled out in under an hour and it was put in the same way. Drive left in place. Bucket loader and chain. Slid right in after turning the prop a hair and bolted up. No smells, leaks or anything out of the ordinary. I did have trouble timing it. Would only reach 4800 and top speed of 14. After advancing the timing 38 degrees it now reaches 5000 rpm but will not plane out.
Ayuh,... As noted, the motor has to be aligned to the gimbel bearing,...
Ya also can't properly service the drive, unless ya Pull it off...
6 nuts, 2 pin locks, 'n 5 minutes to pull it...
I remover the mounts from the original motor which was professionally aligned and installed them exactly the way they came off not touching the adjustment bolts. This wound insure proper alignment.
Doesn't really mean much if the bolt holes in the block were machined in a slightly different location on the new engine.
You can make all the excuses you want, but when you replace an engine or even take it back out and put it back in, things can change.
That is why you always check the alignment before installing the drive.
It also makes it a lot easier to get the motor mount hardware in place when you can just sit straight down in it, instead of lifting and flexing the coupler in order to get above the hardware when installing.
It's your coupler, and you've been warned that things could be out of alignment and you should check it. Rather you do or not is up to you.
I have read every post on this thread...I agree with funk. I had a drive couple go bad once and never smelled a thing when it happened. All of a sudden the RPMS went up and my speed was lost. I bet the Drive couple was already on it's last leg before the engine swap.Bussa, have you tried putting a mark on the coupler housing and one on the drive shaft to ensure that the coupler is not slipping?
I met a boat mechanic Saturday morning to check the alignment on my motor hoping it would be off and I could finally enjoy my new motor but it was not to be.
This could be "ventilation", but he is using the same prop and the same drive, so unlikely this has been introduced by the engine change.Could exhaust gas around the prop cause cavitation that would allow the engine to rev high?