can of worms?

[jrttoday]

The info on this sight is great ! :joyous:

not pushing, I was asking. Some people choose to be ignorant; but if ya don't know, ya don't know.... Honestly, sometimes don't even know what questions to ask - some reading is in order lol.
Cabosil no have; in the past I've been cutting up csm fairly fine and mixing it in with resin - read that somewhere on here..... been awhile
Iboats is a great source of information!! Never would have been able to build this boat w/o this forum

 

[sphelps]

Cutting up the csm into tiny pieces works fine . Or you can get the 1/4 " strands already chopped .. It's really cheap for a tub along with cabosil ...
Cabosil is a thickening agent . You keep adding to the resin until ya get the thickness you want ... Using just the resin and shreaded mat the resin is so thin it likes to run out and not stay in place especially on vertical applications .. If you can't find it locally you can get it online very cheap ....

 

[jrttoday]

my grinder had been complaining long before I started on the transom; it quit today. The keyway wallowed out and the key was in pieces. Spot welded both sides and it runs like new
http://

Spent a fair amount of time getting the middle layer of glass off - will use it as the template or possibly use it as the first layer of inner skin. Had screws all through it into plywood already taken off. Adjusted brightness and contrast for better view. Am still digging out wood below floor line using a wire wheel. Works great and no worries about a slip up and going through the hull


Was leaning that way anyway; they only carry 24oz roving woven. Looking for three yds, got the end of a roll - 120" x 40", should be enough lol

 

[sphelps]

The 24 oz stuff is pretty thick but should be really strong ... Only draw back is it's hard to bend and shape around corners .. Making your fillets in the corners fairly large will help with that so they won't be such tight corners ...

 

[jrttoday]

am thinking it'll eat up some resin, too. An extra shot of hardener for weather, drink espresso, and work fast!! Sharp edges, fiberglass, and I don't get along so well; most always knock 'em down. But that's a good reminder, especially transom to gunwales.
Been reading "PB" forever, what does it mean?

All of the wood I've removed thus far is good, only some minor wetness around the drain hole for the splashwell and that little bit around where I drilled the hole for livewell fill. Still digging down to the hull where the inner transom meets, am finding the floor foundation aft needs replacing on port side - wet there too

Looks like a washout today, garage time....eep::rain:
From before the beginning, was thought I'd be using my chainsaw... haven't had to fire it up yet

 

[JASinIL2006]

PB refers to peanut butter, the slang around here for resin thickened with chopped strands and Cabosil (or some other thickening agent).

 

[jrttoday]

PB refers to peanut butter, the slang around here for resin thickened with chopped strands and Cabosil (or some other thickening agent).

thanks, figured it simple...
Just now, looked back at the pic of what I started with six years ago and am really in disbelief that the wood I've encountered is in such good shape. However they sealed that transom is something I'd like to know??????????
Not gonna lose sleep over it; not after Seacast.

 

[sphelps]

As long as ya keep things sealed up and out of the weather there's no reason a boat should rot away ... Some manufactures must do a better job on the structures than others ...Maybe you got a Tuesday or Wednesday boat ... The rotten ones are built on Mondays and Fridays .. :lol:

 

[jrttoday]

soooooo, what day of the week is today? Days be running together lately.
When this "free" hul was given to me, it was sitting in a garage around the corner on 6x's. No trailer, motor etc. And standing water in the boat above the damaged floor in several places.
What was left of the stringers did not connect to transom - they stopped at the floor foundation, which is only a 1x2. Maybe I'll get around to removing that 1x2 today? Sunday isn't my day of rest; I do "church" most every day of the week.

 

[jrttoday]

surprisingly enough, those two little tacks held up for four hours of serious cutting and grinding - on 1/4" angle iron. After that it was back and forth grinding and re-tacking... Case hardened steel doesn't do so well with weld.
Trying something different today, not looking a new grinder just yet!! lol

 

[sphelps]

Here ya go ... Buy 2 or 3.... http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-43-amp-angle-grinder-69645.html
Use em and chunk em ..

 

[jrttoday]

thanks, looked at them online before welding my el cheapo Porter Cable. HF is a haul and don't really like the traffic over there. Fixing or just trying to fix saves $$ just by consuming time. Found my old Dewalt buried deep under some stuff; on/off switch stuck, broken wire all fixed now. Took two hours to get that switch working right and had to take the grinder completely apart to fix the wire..... waiting for liquid tape to dry, assemble tomorrow

 

[jrttoday]

could have bought mixing blade, but where's the fun in that? All scrap -- took a 12" galvanized nipple and welded it to a 1" piece of of pipe, washer and nut. Fingers from 4" angle and paddles from 1.5" angle. Spins with no vibration at high rpm and a very slight wobble at low
In theory it should pull down pushing Seacast up and out from center; in reality, who knows - wasn't building a watch anyway!! Weighs about 10 pounds, maybe a tad more... Should provide extra torque - on low it keeps turning for a second or two after.

http://

I had planned on doing this from the beginning. Seacast says to use a 1/2" drill motor, something with at least 8amps. My 3/8's has a 1/2" chuck but only 7.8amps, not gonna push it - that stuff looks thick. My poc sander is 10amps; five years old and still not much usage.
maybe... I can get back on track now? lol

 

[jrttoday]

part of something steel that was in the splashwell drain hole; looks like that was the real problem - wood not wet under cracks in transom cover. And you can see where the wood's coming apart underneath hole.

http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/001_zpsq5jx48rf.jpg.html]

no sure what's going on here? Other than glass on transom wood pulling off with it. Is not adhered to outer skin. Any thoughts??[/URL]


Now that I'm looking at this pic, there may be another thin layer of wood, have to go look......

 

[sphelps]

Might have just left a ply on there .... It'll clean up with the grinder...

 

[jrttoday]

what grinder? the Dewalt i fixed worked for a few, then another field wire broke - this time in the field. Can fix? maybe, but went to HF $15. Third time and it broke, traded plus $6 for the next up, not really satisfied with it, no power, but.... it's gonna take awhile digging out the bottom couple inches

Looking like chainsaw after all......
that it matters, am thinking the appearance of wood on skin is just from where plywood was used as a form for the skin - and left a stain?

edit, rather add to - lol Dragging my feet hoping it'll warm up ten degrees! not! Just trying to get in the right frame of mind before digging the rest out. I can't imagine what a "pain" that must be with both skins on and having only 1.5" twenty inches down to work in. WOW!

 

[jrttoday]

and the hits keep rollin' in!!! Wore out two people trying to start my chainsaw; ended up taking the carburetor off and spraying it out. Runs great now - not complaining, at least I have a chainsaw. But I don't think I would have wanted to have done the whole job that way.
Got dark on me before I could get all the wood out, pretty close though.

Want to move the livewell fill intake; can I just glass over that hole? And bolt holes for motor, can they be re-drilled. Yeah, need to go back and re-read the destructions!!

 

[sphelps]

Yep , you can drill them back after the pour. If they are going right back in the same spot just put some duct tape over the holes before you pour . Glass over the large hole from the inside then after pour do your fill and fair on the outside ..

 

[jrttoday]

Here ya go ... Buy 2 or 3.... http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in...der-69645.html
Use em and chunk em ..

had been considering HF before you said... and am only saying this for the benefit of anyone that might read this and some may already know. In two days I've made three trips to HF. Had two different grinders and neither up to the task - not enough power. People always say, "you get what you pay for". I am finding that I pay for what I get... :lol:

since my chainsaw is running so well, wound up cutting a few small trees... was too late to work on transom. New blade last summer, hardly any usage - bought that saw for fishing only. Never thought of using one for transom removal; of course, it's my first. Anyway, before it was too dark I did cut about six inches long to the hull. Seems OK, but am probably a bit sensitive to the whole matter!!! Low rpm's still kinda scary!!

 

[sphelps]

You can tell when you hit glass ... It has a different feel and sound to it ...At least it does for me ..Have not cut through the hull with one yet .... I can't say that about a grinder though .. :facepalm: