can of worms?

[jrttoday]

there's a metal plate, probably stainless, sandwiched in the transom. Can see it in the splashwell drain hole, thinking that I'll most likely add a couple layers of cloth anyway, and will drill a few small holes to better locate the extent of that plate. BECAUSE!! lol Seacast recommends drilling to the bottom and chainsaw the rest of the wood out.

A video I watched the guy used an electric chainsaw only. I'll be using my Husky and not interested in ruining a blade on that plate. Have an 18" wood boring bit to start with ------ maybe tomorrow?????

 

[sphelps]

Ok so the ply in the pic is running along the side of the boat ...Kinda hard to tell with the up close pic ....When I did my first seacast pour I started with a chainsaw .. I had had really good access to the transom so I just decided to cut the inside skin out along the edge ,,, Super good grind and clean then glass back in for the pour .... You can use PB with poly resin and cabosil for the spacers ... I cut ripped a few pcs of 1/2" pvc in half ... Put a layer of clear packing tape inside and filled with PB ... pop em out after cure and cut to whatever length you want ... Glue in place with PB ...

 

[jrttoday]

Ok so the ply in the pic is running along the side of the boat ...Kinda hard to tell with the up close pic

am laughing now!! Cropped to hide the other worms!!! just kidding, am also in the process of re-inventing that compartment. lol It has a cluster kinda kaleidoscope effect on the eyes and not wanting to get sued for anyone's vision problems!! Also rewiring the remote for this 115; it would plug right into my old, but have an unused plug and wires on the 115. Bilge pump, livewell fill, plumbing and wiring, might relocate battery?, etc etc
Going to install transom tie downs - was told wrap with al foil?

Really an old hull, am guessing in the '70s? And the glass job... whomever did a very good job. Can't say that about the top deck, has runs and blems galore - had no problem with my butchery lol. At $30 for a one time use, I'd like to take that boring bit back but the plate says otherwise. This'll be my first and most likely last transom of any kind and I want to get it right. So I do question about replacing inner skin entirely or just add to it?

 

[sphelps]

If you can get to it . Taking the inside skin out IMHO is the way to go ... Much easier to clean the skin that way ... You will be able to grind all the gunk off and get down to fresh glass for your best possible bond ...You can use the old skin if you can take it out without tearing it up .. Add too it or make new skins either way ..
Hanging that big motor on there no way I would skimp on prep .. If ya take the skin off then you could return your bit and spend the 30 bucks on more glass ..

 

[jrttoday]

thanks for da tips!! Already thinking I'll end up making new skin??? will see how easy old comes off. Just taking my tabs and the original ones turned out to be a job from L!! thinking of making a dam and skin over the Seacast? But also thinking of making new skin against the old piece I removed; and then taking that back out - what's the best way to release that wood after new skin forms?

I've got the bow five feet in the air - the following is what was done today, not sure how much more will, probably clean up and done!!
http://



you can only see the fan post, but laid it over to suck dust - had particle mask and goggles that kept fogging errrrrr!! That dug out spot against the transom is where I first found water when installing livewell fill. Took a core sample about a foot forward... was dry and crunchy floatation foam. Floor is all 1/2 marine plywood and glassed. Stringers encapsulated and are 2x4's glassed against 1x4's - 1x6" keel

 

[sphelps]

jr I just made a template out of some Masonite I had laying around .. Then laid it up on an old laminate door .. If you use the plywood you can put a layer of thick plastic sheeting on it and it should not stick to bad to it .. Cut the glass a little larger than your piece so once dry ya lay the template on it and trace and cut ..

 

[jrttoday]

thanks a mucho!! That'll work, the question is "will I" lol. Outdoors in the cold/wind... ready for about 12hrs of shut eye

 

[jrttoday]

If you can get to
Hanging that big motor on there no way I would skimp on prep ..

yeah.... i'm always in thinking mode, but only once in awhile a brain cell will fire! lol Sometime today? I need do the math again to check if I have enough to make a couple small brackets from transom to stringers when I pour.
But it's looking more like a personal business day...

 

[jrttoday]

returned the bit to HD, then went down the road for some cloth - Ace used to be the place for the helpful..., but couldn't tell me how much resin I need for 6yds. Bought a gallon anyway because I have a third of a gallon. They cut me a few inches over 18' and it's 40" wide; already have one piece 20" x 24".

Transom is 54" x 20" but 18" in places. What do you call those ridges in the hull? I'm figuring maybe 2 layers on the outer skin and 4 for the inner; or any combination thereof. Or should the inner be more than four?
Wish me luck!! lol getting ready to "start" removing the transom!

 

[jrttoday]

Did a few depth checks with a drill trying to locate the extent of that so called plate, APRIL FOOLS!! :facepalm: 3/8's bit hit hard all over just shy of an inch, sharp bit didn't bite with no pressure. It sure looked like metal through the drain hole - a perfect hole between two pieces of plywood that had started to deteriorate is mostly what had me thinking that - never thought it'd be glass w/maybe too much hardener or epoxy?

Set my saw at 7/8" took the first layer off still thinking it was steel lol. It's all good, didn't mess up anything and if I can work that skin off, it may save me some of something?? lol certainly not work! I figure it's just something to do.... beats the crap out of TV!!!

http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/001_zpsr1vvnkhz.jpg.html]

having so much fun it got dark on me[/URL]



am only finding moisture in the very bottom, smeared it all little - it isn't wet. Might could have lasted a few more years; catch it now!! in a few might be too late

 

[sphelps]

Yeah from the looks it wasn't in too bad shape ... Is the the deck raised all the way to the back ? If so it prolly needs to be cut back some to allow for tabbing to turn down onto the hull bottom .. I think the ridges in the hull your talking about are called chines ... If you add any layers to the outside skin put them on the inside of the outside skin ....
What type glass/resin did ya get ?

 

[jrttoday]

chines yeah lol too much other on the brain!! Floor's about an 1/8th shy but had tabbed it to transom - cut now. Might take a few inches just because...?? Most likely cut some back over two stringers if I want to make gussets w/Seacast = all would be glassed first. And probably stay away from adding to outer skin, that being the case.

Not a glass guy, but never like that Bondo crap HD and Lowes sell. That's really why I went down the road; and can get cloth off the roll instead of those stupid little packages you pay through the nose for. Haven't been there in years and they used to carry something else that I really liked. Will see about this stuff. Industrial Use Only... hmmmmmmm
http://

really appreciate your help!!:joyous:
and just now figured out "why" I'm so forgetful lately... them noodles are sucking up brain noodles!!

 

[sphelps]

Does that resin have wax already in it ? For doing multi layers it's better to use the non wax type ... You can use the stuff with wax already in the resin but if not a wet on wet layup you will need to sand in between coats .. And good acetone wipe down ..
Btw , I think if I remember you were using a particulate like dust mask for the grinding and cutting ... If so I would highly recommend getting at least a half faced respirator ... That glass dust will ruin your day and your lungs ... The Little paper dust mask are pretty much useless for this type work ...
Your making good progress ! Keep up the good work jr !

 

[jrttoday]

thanks! it's hard to tell when I stand back and look, seems like slooooow going....... Have a cartridge style for welding. These particulate masks I'm using are not the cheap ones - w/tax these were 18ish $$ for a box of ten at safety supply.

Not sure about the reisin; never really looked, just put it in my flammables cabinet. You made me go out and take a pic cos I didn't remember or even look to see who made it!! :lol: and there's no name on it

and a foot note on my grinder a few pics ago: that's a 5" 0.040 wheel with using a 2.5" depressed center cutoff wheel to keep extra tension on the 5". Those wheels are dangerous and will spin due drag of fg. Been doing that for years and still have eight fingers!! :facepalm:

 

[sphelps]

It should say on the can somewhere if it contains wax ... Did you get bi-axle cloth or woven .. If woven you will need to lay down csm first then the woven wet on wet .. 1708 bi-axle has a layer of csm stitched to one side already ..

 

[jrttoday]

let me back up at second... Like said, am not a glass guy and it would be totally foolish to pretend...
Bondo may or may not be a good product? I used seventeen gallons of at least three different kinds of resin when building this boat - and that considering the hull and top deck were already made. Am not completely ignorant of fiberglassing techniques/applications; just saying, glassing was done in a variety of temperature/humidity conditions.
Made the effort to glass only on the best days possible, but ya know how that goes :lol:
Seemed as though Bondo gave me the most trouble.... BoatYard worked easiest/best for me, which isn't saying anything lol

Fow what I do, always get csm - stronger? and easier to make flux. Should I use woven over that, or just csm? No name on the can - distributed by "advanced plastics" ....styrene monomer and unsaturated polyester resin, no wax listed. This stuff must be bottom of the barrel if they're too ashamed to put their name on it :facepalm:

 

[jrttoday]

because I know how much we like pictures... lol Looking at radar everything is so colorful

http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/001_zps3yvmmj2l.jpg.html]

isn't here yet, but it's coming[/URL]

 

[sphelps]

Csm really has no strength alone .. The woven is what gives strength ..But woven itself does not bond very well without csm first .. The fibers in the csm kinda breaks down and intertwines with the woven to give it the bond needed .. The 1708/1808 bi-axle already has the csm stitched to it so the extra csm is not needed unless it's being installed on top of really rough existing glass ..
If ya got just csm just get some heavy woven to go with it and you'll be good to go ..
I would put at least 2 layers of both on for the inside skin ...You can pre install new skin or build a form to pour coated with mold release . Then tab in and glass after the pour .. Totally up to you ..

 

[jrttoday]

^^^!! that's good to know, couldn't remember exactly what I read 6yrs ago duh! Haven't taken the time to re-read yet, not there today - rain out..
Am spending some time on other related and non-related issues! lol also making a stirring blade for Seacast - that's a project for another thread.. almost!

At present, am thinking making gussets glassed to stringers and skin; installed in one piece that Seacast fills the gussets in one pour. I know Seacast has "no cold seam" but would like one pour and done. What are we calling heavy woven?

 

[sphelps]

I would think 18 to 24 oz would be good .. Seacast recommends at least 2 layers of 1708 ... Thats 17oz cloth with .75 thick csm stitched
to it .. Soooo 2 layers of 18 oz woven with the 1.5 csm should give you about the same strength ..For optimum strength using the woven roving run one of the layers at a 45 deg angle to the other ... Layer of csm then W/R another layer of csm then the next layer of W/R run at 45 deg Followed up with another layer of csm for cosmetics .. Do you have any cabosil ? Your gunna need it for making your fillets ..
I hope I don't seem to be pushing this stuff on ya ... Every thing I have learned about fiberglass I have learned right here on the forum .. The info on this sight is great ! :joyous: