Building a '93 Caravelle 1750 Classic Bowrider

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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This weekend I had a list of stuff to get done so that I can launch NEXT weekend. That started out well, but went off the rails. Looks like I will be working on it through the week to meet that goal.

I refinished the used prop that I bought to start off with. The prop itself is in great shape, but the finish was bubbling off.
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I thought I had bought satin black, but ended up with satin dark walnut. This sort of thing happens to me often because I am visually impaired. I just go with it most of the time. This was no exception.
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Well, it turned out to be a pretty good color. Different, if nothing else.
I installed it with a shiny new nut, keeper and cotter pin. Bought a spare nut kit to keep in the boat as well.
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I made an hour meter bracket to mount on the engine. I still need to get grommets and proper bolts to isolate it from vibration.
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I still had the garden hose rig on the water inlet to the engine, so I used that to fill and run the engine. I have not yet installed the impeller, so there is no way that I can burn that up. Once I get the engine running like I want, I will install the new pump (it goes in from the back on Cobra.) and be ready to launch. I will have to test run it on muffs from then on, but for now I taking advantage of the situation.

I was trying to adjust the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge, but it was not responding like it should. Especially on one side of the 2 barrel Holley. It was dribbling fuel a bit after I stopped cranking the engine.
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As I continued, it ran worse and worse; backfiring and not taking throttle. Long story short, I did not have enough gas on the tank for the pitch that the boat was on to get the outdrive straight. I quit for the night and wet to the gas station with two 5 gallon cans.
I only had a little bit of time Sunday evening, but I was sure it would run once it had gas. Wrong. It was now POURING fuel into the engine on the port side. I questioned the float height and needle. I tried adjusting the height but it was not helping.
I decided to remove the bowl and set it properly again. As I removed the bowl, something fell into the bilge. Sounded like a screw. I felt around and found one of the main jets. It had unscrewed itself completely! The other side was almost out as well.
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I guess I forgot to tighten them. I may have snugged them, gone after a proper sized screwdriver, and got side-tracked. Shrug.


But I was thrilled to have found "the problem". Wrong. Put it all back and it still won't start. Just a backfire or pop here and there. As I played with timing I could get it to pop through the exhaust or the intake; my choice.
I pulled a plug and checked spark. Had my son watch it as I cranked. He said it was white, not blue. Tried a shiny new plug, and he couldn't see anything. I suspect a weak white spark is hard to see in the sunlight on a shiny new plug. Nonetheless, it was not blue. I ruled out plugs.

I still had some corrosion on the connectors that plug into the coil, so I cleaned those really well. Voltage there was slightly low; I had the charger connected at the time and system voltage was 13v but I was only getting 12v at the coil and distributor. Even so, that should be enough.
This evening I plan to pick up a spark tester and try that. I can also run through the coil and pick-up with a meter and test them. They are new, but they could be junk. You never know.
If all that checks out, I will test compression, I guess.

What a disappointment. :( Sorry for getting long-winded.
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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I bought an adjustable spark tester on my way home last evening and it showed me that I have GREAT spark from the ignition all the way to the ends of the wires. I tried to start it, but still no joy.
I pulled the plugs, and they are carbon-fouled. They still spark, but the spark jumps around or is not between the electrodes as it should be.

I thought about cleaning them, but I've decided to buy four new ones. Maybe I'll buy four spares while I'm at it.

It was getting dark, but I did check compression on one cylinder and actually had some. (~ 125 psi) That was a relief. LOL It read low, but I didn't even have the o-ring seated. I will probably check them all for good measure since they're all out at the moment.
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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All I accomplished last evening was to siphon off about fifteen gallons of rainwater from the bow section of my cover so I could properly tension it for more rain that was on the way.
Hoping to dry new plugs tonight. Hoping that gets it going again.
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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Found the problem with the engine. I had the firing order backward. And it RAN THAT WAY as long as it backfired while starting to make it rotate the other direction.
Crazy, huh? Never ran hot, either.
I put it right and it fires right up, now.

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Reserector_

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I just realized that it's a good thing I haven't installed the water pump impeller yet, or I may have done some damage. Currently I have the garden hose hooked directly to the hose on the engine, bypassing the raw water pump.
Cranking clockwise and then running counter-clockwise would have probably destroyed that new impeller. Maybe the housing as well.
Dodged a bullet on that one.
 

froggy1150

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Nov 3, 2017
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846
Something else to think about. Motor spinning backwards.... so goes the oil pump. That would mean it ran on no oil pressure.....
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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Something else to think about. Motor spinning backwards.... so goes the oil pump. That would mean it ran on no oil pressure.....
Hadn't thought of that, but you're right. It's made to work on one direction.
Reading your post alarmed me at first, but it currently runs at 40 psi at idle and increases a bit with rpm.
ram. It got me digging back through old videos of when it first ran in the driveway. The first video shows the firing order correct, the engine running well and showing 40 psi on the gauge.
A later video shows the order reversed, the engine running and showing 20 psi on the gauge. How is that possible? Somehow it produced pressure at the sender.

Hopefully all the no-start cranking along with crank sling was enough to keep it oiled. It ran with no load and ran cool.
It currently runs fine and makes the same oil pressure reading as when it initially ran. I'm going to roll with it and keep an eye and an ear on it. I'll be testing in a small lake. Never far from shore.
 

Reserector_

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So I get it running well on a hose direct to the engine, and then I decided it was time to install the water pump and test the whole circuit.
Well, that plan failed. Water was not flowing from the pickup to the pump. I realized I must've gotten the water tube out of place when I joined the upper and lower cases.
Unfortunately, that meant removing the drive and separating it again.

My suspicions were right regarding the water passage problem; The tube that connects the top and bottom sections was discombobulated and the seals were out of place.
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I think I went wrong by joining the two while they were lying on their side. You're supposed to have a stand to hold the lower unit upright as you join them. I do now!
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I was able to repair the tube.
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I just happened to have another set of the gaskets and seals that I needed. What a blessing!
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It was also a good opportunity to replace an o-ring on the shift lever that I was not aware of durng the overhaul.
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It's back together and tested. All worked perfectly this time!
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View attachment 20210509_193708.mp4
I should be able to button things up, do some cleaning and be ready to launch this coming weekend. šŸ˜ƒ
 

froggy1150

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I never was lucky enough to get an engine ti run backwards... most oil pumps are just 2 gears that when spun force oil thru the center. Its possible that it was able to build some pressure going the long way around the outside. Considering there was some oil pressure on a "no load" engine you are probably fine
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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I take tons of photos and video as I go along, and it has been invaluable several times when I needed to reference something that I didn't note at the time. Often I could find it in the photos.
In this case, I was able to go back to the initial run videos and zoom in on the plug wires and on the gauges.
I'm sure that backwards stunt hurt it. At least a little. But it "seems" fine so far. Oil pressure looks good, and I pulled the valve cover to see that it is getting plentiy of oil up top. No bent push rods, either.
Who knows how it may sound under load? If something seems wrong when I run it in the water, I'll pull the engine and rebuild it or replace it. Remember, this is the one that I brazed the block on. All of that seems fine also, but given enough reason, I would love to have a fresh engine. I just cannot justify the money if this one has a good bit of life left in it.
 

Reserector_

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Why do you suppose the telltale on the OMC Cobra is directed into the lower case instead of squirting visibly like on an outboard?
Is the Mercruiser the same way?

It would be easy to reroute to make it visible. Wondering if that would be a benefit.
 

chevymaher

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Mar 29, 2017
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Mercruiser don't do the squirting thing. It comes out 2 holes in the gimble and the prop if you got that boot on.
 

Reserector_

Chief Petty Officer" & 2021 Splash of the Year Win
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It would be simple on the OMC to add a bulkhead nipple to the rear cover and run the hose from the pump to that. Depending on where it was put, it could squirt up at an angle to make it easy to see.
Here you can see the telltale and the hose that directs it down to a low drain point.
View attachment 20210509_193708.mp4

Here is the cover. Can you picture a jet of water peeing out of it? I can.
I just wonder why they didn't offer it on these.
I don't know how much is submerged during normal use yet. That might be a factor.
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tpenfield

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Nice splash day. :cool: Too bad about the engine troubles, but hopefully you will get that sorted out.
 
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